Chris' 2014 silver FiST

[wwuchris]

Had the NB Styling hood strut installed today, and got a detail. Functionality, it works awesome, but it also pushed up the hood a bit at the rear of the driver's side (a bit annoying).

 

[wwuchris]

Had to dump some shots in here since I finally got it detailed and it looks WAY better clean:

 

[CanadianGuy]

Had the NB Styling hood strut installed today, and got a detail. Functionality, it works awesome, but it also pushed up the hood a bit at the rear of the driver's side (a bit annoying).

First nice work. Question. Could you not install a second strut (same kit) on the other side? I have fears that with only one over time the hood would get a twist.

 

[felopr]

Original values are after Koni Sport and Mountune Spring install, then the alignment of course. I need to look up the stock ST specs, because those idiots used the 2010-2013 Fiesta values, i.e. non-ST. I hope nothing is out of tolerance, otherwise I'm bringing it back in to redo the alignment.

EDIT: With the exception of rear camber, of course, because that can't be adjusted.

if i be me, i take it back and say is to much toe in the front, if you are not racing/autocrossing, try to shot for 0 toe to preserve the tires longer, if much 0.1 of toe out

 

[wwuchris]

First nice work. Question. Could you not install a second strut (same kit) on the other side? I have fears that with only one over time the hood would get a twist.

Good question, but NB Styling only sells the one, and I haven't seen ANY other manufacturers make one for the FiST. Kinda disappointed that a) no one else makes them, and b) there are NO resellers in the US that sell it, so it's probably cost-prohibitive for a lot of people (kinda like "do I REALLY want to pay $100 for a hood strut??"). My '00 VW Golf TDI had one on the same side (stock) and after almost 15 years it's not sagging at all, nor has the strut ever had to be replaced. Sold the Golf to a good friend so I can still say that

 

[CanadianGuy]

Sico Development (again UK) also makes the strut
http://www.sico-developments.co.uk/

 

[wwuchris]

if i be me, i take it back and say is to much toe in the front, if you are not racing/autocrossing, try to shot for 0 toe to preserve the tires longer, if much 0.1 of toe out

I asked the mechanic I had install the suspension if I should be concerned about the .08/.09 toe numbers, and he seemed pleased with them. I guess I can be the long-term guinea pig to see if this causes any kind of issues, but I doubt it.

 

[wwuchris]

Sico Development (again UK) also makes the strut
http://www.sico-developments.co.uk/

Sorry I must have missed this. That's where I purchased from. SiCo doesn't make the kit, they resell the NB Styling kit. You can see the "NB Styling" sticker on the bracket of the strut.

 

[wwuchris]

Some more goodies to play with. Received my used 16" Sparco Assetto Gara in matte graphite (thanks Carl!).

Also got a McGard splinedrive / locking lug kit from Amazon.

Noticed this gem a couple days back. I had my mechanic call Ford and they supposedly don't even have a part number for that piece of protecting plastic. Now what? Ugh.

I cleaned the rims when I got them yesterday, but now I need to figure out how to get this stuff off without damaging the finish:

 

[wwuchris]

Almost forgot -

Active Shift Designs Accelerator Pedal Lift Spacer from Modbargains, and I got a silicone coupler and a couple t-bolt clamps to secure the Cobb intake at the top of the airbox lid. There is an unacceptable amount of play -

I played around with this last weekend with some materials I had laying around. I'm really disappointed they didn't do something like this:

I'm also disappointed at how weak the airbox lid is (how is this supposed to create a "seal"??), as well as the mount for the MAF sensor. I think the seal at the MAF sensor is the reason for the really annoying whirring noise at light load:

 

[wwuchris]

Installed the Active Shift Designs Accelerator Pedal Lift Spacer. Didn't find any instructions, the bolt that comes with it is 12mm, and the OEM nuts you have to take off to install it are 13mm. I'm too fat and old to get under there comfortably to install it, but it went on smoothly

I haven't driven it yet, but I'll post my thoughts later.

 

[ElChupacabura]

I just installed my pedal spacer yesterday, it took me about a day to get used to it. Idk why but after installing it, even though it is securely attached, I feel like the pedal moves side to side a lot more and feels less secure. Maybe it has more to do with the plastic the pedal arm is actually made of... Looking forward to hear what you think [emoji106]

 

[wwuchris]

I just installed my pedal spacer yesterday, it took me about a day to get used to it. Idk why but after installing it, even though it is securely attached, I feel like the pedal moves side to side a lot more and feels less secure. Maybe it has more to do with the plastic the pedal arm is actually made of... Looking forward to hear what you think [emoji106]

I don't know, seems like some REALLY stiff plastic. I assume you tried to retighten the bolts just in case? I'm only concerned that the spacer might be a little too thick.

 

[wwuchris]

Just ordered the Panda Motorworks etune! Looking forward to the process. Contemplating attempting the de-badge, but probably not until next week.

 

[cmattptx]

Did you ever figure out the whirling noise from your intake? I have the same issue around the same rpm. It's not that bad. But at WOT man it is really loud.

 

[wwuchris]

Did you ever figure out the whirling noise from your intake? I have the same issue around the same rpm. It's not that bad. But at WOT man it is really loud.

I wonder if we have the same noise, because I can only hear mine under light load. I'm working on it though. I contacted Cobb and their sending me a replacement airbox lid. You can see on the previous page (3) the gap on the passenger side of my airbox. I installed the rubber and hose clamp to secure the intake pipe just above the airbox lid to see if that helps (I don't think it has). I did electrical tape the crap out of the gap where the MAF sensor plugs in and it seems to at least approve the noise. I actually wrote a long detailed e-mail to Cobb explaining what I think might be the problem but they chalked it up to being normal sound...

"As for the coke bottle noise there is a harmonic that is sometimes made with our intake which can cause this sound. It is perfectly normal."

I really don't buy that. Once I receive the replacement lid I'll install the silicone coupler and t-bolt clamps (also shown on page 3) to secure the intake pipe better. I'll then look into POTENTIALLY some silicone sealant between the intake pipe and the airbox lid to seal that gap, and I THINK I'll probably end up using some silicone sealant on the intake MAF sensor mount. I don't know if you've noticed, but there's definitely a gap there as well. The Injen intake looks like it actually has a weld between the intake and that little block the MAF clips into. I'm not sure what Cobb was thinking there.

 

[cmattptx]

I resolved my noise at wide open throttle. I had two loose clamps. One on the Cobb charge pipe at the intercooler and one that lead to the turbo. It was quite loose and part of the pipe had come out of the rubber sleeve. I never rechecked the clamps after some drive time break in.

I hope you resolve your issue. Keep us posted.

 

[wwuchris]

Nothing too exciting. Removed the "Fiesta" badge. I love the look. I'm toying with removing the "ST" badge on the rear and on the grille, but first I've got some black and Carbon 3M "ST" badge inlays coming from DMB, so I'll see how I like those. If I don't like the color change, I'll just remove those badges as well.

Before...

After (and a little dirtier/wetter)...

 

[wwuchris]

Got my first map from Matthew at Panda Motorworks on Monday, did several WOT runs in 3rd per his recommendations on Monday night:

http://www.datazap.me/u/wwuchris/log-1427179072?log=0&data=4-8
http://www.datazap.me/u/wwuchris/log-1427179072?log=1&data=4-8
http://www.datazap.me/u/wwuchris/log-1427179072?log=2&data=4-8

Eagerly awaiting the first revision!

My 205/45R16 Bridgestone Potenza RE760's are arriving at my local Costco tomorrow (according to UPS), so I'll likely get my Sparco Assetto Garas installed on Friday, then change the factory lugs for my McGards when I get back to my place. I'm really looking forward to seeing how they feel.

Also, I removed the layers of electrical tape I ran around the MAF sensor mount on the Cobb Intake and the whistling is way worse, so obviously that helped. I'm going to install some Ultra Black or similar product where the intake pipe and that block mount meet to see if it helps with the noise. Wish me luck!

Oh, and one last thing... I washed one of my keys in the washer yesterday, dried it out, and it's not working. I ordered a few CR2032 batteries from Amazon and will replace it when they arrive - hope that's the only issue!

 

[iso100]

Nothing too exciting...

March 1st - installed Boomba Racing shifter base bushings

March 2nd - installed ProClip mount for the Accessport (no pictures, you guys have seen this image enough!)

Tomorrow, March 9th, I'm going to a local shop to have my Koni Sports, Mountune lowering springs, and hood strut (purchased from SiCo-Developments, UK) installed. Very excited! Probably a detail as well.

I re-installed the Sound Symposer yesterday, as I'm experiencing some very annoying whirring noise, typically in the 2k-2700 RPM range in all gears, but only when there is a load on the engine (doesn't happen on downhill). The Boomba kit certainly wasn't the culprit, as I was still experiencing the noise, so I reinstalled the Symposer Delete. Now I have to figure out what else could be causing it. I guess that's the drawback to installing so many parts at once (2J-Racing catted downpipe, Airtec Intercooler, Cobb Intake, Cobb Intercooler Pipes, RH-Renntechnik short shifter, Boomba Racing Sound Symposer Delete, Boomba Racing Transmission Cable Bracket Bushings).

The noise is your transmission.

Edit, probably not. Likely intake harmonics.