Can you run a COBB stg3 tune without a Downpipe?

[Raziel510]

I'll be getting the intercooler ASAP, I didn't see a big jump in charge temps, coolant, or oil temps compared to stage 1. My ambient temps here in the south south most tip of Texas are in the 100+s during the summer. I'll keep monitoring them but stage 1 temps look the same as stage 3 temps. I don't beat on the throttle all the time so I think that's the main factor in the temps.

 

[danbfree]

I'll be getting the intercooler ASAP, I didn't see a big jump in charge temps, coolant, or oil temps compared to stage 1. My ambient temps here in the south south most tip of Texas are in the 100+s during the summer. I'll keep monitoring them but stage 1 temps look the same as stage 3 temps. I don't beat on the throttle all the time so I think that's the main factor in the temps.

I got some weird stuttering running Stage 3 without the exhaust and intercooler mods, I think that was due to some small knock, I dunno... but I guess if yours is doing OK, that's fine, I just found Stage 2 to be the sweet spot when not heavily modded/close to their "requirements". I still highly recommend a Dizzy stage 2 once you get your IC, the Cobb tunes just aren't that great.

 

[Raziel510]

I only have 6700 miles so I'm running fairly new still.

 

[danbfree]

I only have 6700 miles so I'm running fairly new still.

Right on, I just hit 26k recently on my '17 (mechanically identical to '18-'19, just no rear camera) and honestly I'm surprised at how it feels more and more "broken in" still, maybe 30k would be considered fully broken in as far as engine and suspension. I'm sure you have noticed that the suspension especially feels less bouncy now then when brand new, I felt it was mostly fully broken in by 15-20k... As far as the engine, I may have said it further back in this thread, but the stock engine itself can handle double the power over stock safely, so adding more safe power just helps it break-in a bit faster!

 

[Raziel510]

I hit the go pedal hard a few times to see how high the temps would go. Yeah I will be getting the intercooler ASAP. 144 on charge temps, 222 on coolant, and oil up to 216 all Fahrenheit. Boost went up all the way to 22 psi and I shifted at 6k+. Good thing I do not drive it that way all the time. Regular 3k shifts and highway speeds for me.

 

[danbfree]

I hit the go pedal hard a few times to see how high the temps would go. Yeah I will be getting the intercooler ASAP. 144 on charge temps, 222 on coolant, and oil up to 216 all Fahrenheit. Boost went up all the way to 22 psi and I shifted at 6k+. Good thing I do not drive it that way all the time. Regular 3k shifts and highway speeds for me.

Definitely charge temps are the most concerning there, the others are totally fine. You will see the charge temps creep up if in stop and go and if doing pulls after one another, but yeah, timing starts getting cut at 140 charge temps, an intercooler is one of the best things you can do for sure. You can open a whole can of worms as far as things to do for cooling: Bigger radiator, cutting a hole in the radiator shroud for the intake snorkel,etc. but it all boils down to intercooler first... Since you are in Texas and probably doesn't get down under 14 degrees in the winter you can also run only 25% coolant instead of 50% and a half bottle of Water Wetter to help with coolant temps.

 

[Raziel510]

I do travel up to the Midland Odessa area for work during the winter I'll see temps in the low 30s. I just got the car in May so it hasn't been in the cold yet. I'll keep the water wetter in mind or just get a bigger better radiator.

I'm ready to pull the trigger on the Whoosh FMIC not sure if I will get the v1 or v3, I will be getting the induction hose set with clamps and hot side j pipe.

 

[danbfree]

I do travel up to the Midland Odessa area for work during the winter I'll see temps in the low 30s. I just got the car in May so it hasn't been in the cold yet. I'll keep the water wetter in mind or just get a bigger better radiator.

I'm ready to pull the trigger on the Whoosh FMIC not sure if I will get the v1 or v3, I will be getting the induction hose set with clamps and hot side j pipe.

Not a bad plan, and again, anything above 14 degrees you're fine at 25% coolant and with half bottle of Water Wetter as a combo you may not need a new radiator... Just remember to get the induction hose for '16+ that has the evap fix on it or the OEM '14-'15 evap harness. As far as V1 or V3, V1 is fine if you are going to stay stock turbo, if you think you may do hybrid down the line then go V3... I also did the hotside J pipe, good little mod to do!