Camshaft replacement as a precaution?

[Intuit]

https://www.google.com/search?sourc...AQ&q=site:fiestastforum.com+timing+belt+broke

ZERO hits on a broken t-belt.
This thread has a similar topic.
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/853-1-6-Ecoboost-quot-Lifetime-quot-Timing-Belt

210hp is 5.7% over stock 198hp.
Manual recommended is 150k.
5.7% of 150k is 141k.

10-12k is considered average for continental US drivers.
150/12 is 12.5 years.

So to be safe, let's say you'll do it in 8 to 10 years, instead of 12.5.
Mileage for that would be 96k-120k.

Future posts to these forums will guide my plans, but with current information, I'll begin peaking at the belt approaching 100k and probably not touch until the 130s or even 150 if it appears to be in solid condition. I know it use to be really common to have to regularly replace serpentine belts, now they virtually last the life of the vehicle short of a pulley seizing. Belt tech has come a long way. I think they were even used with some of the early CVT transmissions.

When inspecting the belt, what you'll want to pay close attention to, is where the "rungs" attach to the belt. My previous vehicle would never break a belt, but it did have a tendency to strip a couple of teeth from one and slipped time by a couple of teeth. It was a non-interference engine though. Usually my first clue that it slipped time was reduce performance and rough idling. Prior to it getting to that point, there would be a lot of cracking in the rubber between the rung on the belt and the base of the belt.

 

[Quisp]

Aren't the cam belts internal and running in oil ?

 

[felopr]

Aren't the cam belts internal and running in oil ?

i think you are confused
Timing chain can be run internal, not timing belts, if the belts touches oil, is going to deteriorate faster

 

[Quisp]

i think you are confused
Timing chain can be run internal, not timing belts, if the belts touches oil, is going to deteriorate faster

The past year has seen the launch of the 1.0 litre gasoline Ford EcoBoost engine, also with a timing belt, running in oil, with the durability to last the life of the engine. ... The design where the cams are driven by a belt immersed in oil, was pioneered by Ford on its 1.8 l diesel Lynx engine.

 

[Intuit]

Our 1.6L engines have a traditional timing belt setup.

 

[XR650R]

The past year has seen the launch of the 1.0 litre gasoline Ford EcoBoost engine, also with a timing belt, running in oil, with the durability to last the life of the engine. ... The design where the cams are driven by a belt immersed in oil, was pioneered by Ford on its 1.8 l diesel Lynx engine.

Europe loves their hot hatches. That's what I like, but I'm not a typical American. Americans want a Ford Edge ST.

 

[scooter123]

THANKS!

I kind of figured a lot of that has to get removed anyway to do this job, just was not sure since I never really studied an actual shop manual (WISH we could have an officially printed one! ).

Helm has a CD of the service manual that is the real Ford Service manual. I would estimate that the actual time to replace a timing belt would be about 3 hours and if you do it yourself you will need to purchase about 7 or 8 specialty tools to position the camshafts, Phasers, and crankshaft to maintain correct alignment. In addition you'll need a new crankshaft pulley bolt because those cannot be re-used.

In getting down to the level of the timing belt you have to remove the alternator and the accessory belt and the water pump is wide open to access. So I would strongly suggest a new water pump and alternator along with the drive belt and tensioner. Another item I would suggest replacing is the timing belt tensioner. Yeah, a lot of extras are getting replaced but labor isn't cheap and parts are typically rather inexpensive. So why not go whole hog and avoid having to pay for an extra 2 hours of labor to replace an alternator that fails a month after getting the timing belt done.

I'm only guessing but here in the USA the cost for all that would likely run 1000 to 1200 dollars if you can persuade the dealer to charge you only the true labor time. If you allow them to "stack" the labor charges for each item plan on doubling that cost.

Personally I plan on acquiring all of the specialty tools over the next 6 months and will probably shelve a water pump, alternator, tensioners and belts over the next 2 or 3 years. Also plan on getting a Mountune short block in about a year because IMO going to a larger turbo with the factory cast pistons is just asking for a blown motor.

As for lifespan, I'm conservative about items that can destroy an engine if they fail and the timing belt on these engines is one of those items. So I plan on replacing my timing belt at 100,000 miles or when the belt is 8 years old. Why 8 years, it's simple, most modern synthetics start to get fragile about 10-12 years after manufacture. So, being conservative doing it at 8 years puts me ahead of that curve. Note, by fragile I mean the elastomers in the material start to break down to the point where strength becomes compromised.

 

[Intuit]

OEM alternators don't seem to fail like they used to and rebuilt are of lackluster quality. (IMO bearings in general don't fail like they used to.) It may however be a good idea to check and replace the alternator brushes. When those get low, they may damage the alternator's commutator; at which point it may then be best to just replace the entire alternator. Brush replacement with my previous vehicle alternator was just a five minute job and an $8 part. Not sure what it entails with this one, or whether it's reasonably serviceable.

 

[scooter123]

Guess I should have been specific about the parts I plan on stockpiling, ALL will be Ford OEM. I am anticipating that there will come a time when parts for the Fiesta won't be stocked by Ford Dealers so you could have your car sitting while waiting for parts to arrive. Learned many many years ago that aftermarket parts are NOT what you want to install on a car you plan on keeping for more than 6 months.

 

[Ford ST]

I believe it's important to remember that these engines are used in other vehicles the fusion, and escape. It'll be a long time before you wouldn't be able to get OEM parts for them.
Aftermarket alternators and starters for example as long as you buy a new one not a rebuilt unit you should have absolutely no issues.

Also remember plenty of OEM parts are garbage. Your personal experience may be different.


Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[Intuit]

An independent Napa parts store sold me a Raybestos rebuilt alternator as a new Motorcraft part and for new price. It even had the Motorcraft stamping on the case. My clue to it being rebuilt, was not only that it failed, (scorch marks come from it and all,) but the fact that it was significantly lighter weight than the true >220,000 mile old OEM alternator that it was replacing; due to damaged commutator. (supposedly the same output or better) Sure, it had a warranty, but I'd have to wait two weeks for mail-in and replacement. (which is how I found out it was actually a Raybestos rebuilt) Couldn't have my car sit for two weeks. Went and got an alternator from CarQuest... seemed to be pretty heavy, well built. On the second visit and to their credit, the Napa store manager did a full refund on the purchase.