Camber

[ansibe]

I just installed SPC camber bolts. I got -2.25 driver side, but only -1.15 passenger side. With a bit of work we equalized at -1.2, zero toe.

My feeling is this isn't enough for track work. Should I leave the camber asymmetric, with -2.25L/-1.2R? My FiST is primarily a DD, including winter, with a few track days per year.

Besides bolts, is there any other way to get more camber at the front? I can't seem to find plates, except with coilovers (which I don't want).

 

[tiggerbren]

That's odd. I was able to equalize at 2.2 with camber bolts with Koni yellows in front.

 

[Sprayed150]

i was able to get -3.2 with the bolts with eibach springs

 

[ansibe]

You always get a bit more neg camber when you lower, but -3.2 is a lot. If your OE alignment was -1, you lower 1.5", and you get an additional -1.5 from the bolts, I guess you end up at -3.2. Lucky you!

The Koni's mounting holes could differ slightly from OE, so that could get you a little more -camber I guess.

Anyway, my car is what it is, so I'm stuck at -1.2. I'd like to hear ideas how I could get it to -2. Or the draw backs of running asymmetric camber... Uneven tire wear I suppose, but I rotate every track day anyway.

 

[Sprayed150]

yea, i was surprised how much it got

 

[FORZDA 2]

You can slot the oem strut bolt holes with the SPC bolts. All you need is a hand drill and a carbide cutter. I used the SPC bolts with Konis and Mountune springs for easy neg camber. I set it to -2.4 with my weight in the car. Note that for optimum grip performance left and right, static camber with no driver needs to be set -0.2 more on the right side. This accounts for driver weight which will lower the left to go -0.1 more and the right will go +0.1 less to equal left and right with driver in car.

 

[ansibe]

Very helpful, thanks so much!
I guess the upper hole should be elongated to the inside so you can push the strut inwards? Or do you elongate the lower outwards and leave the top alone?