Building an engine to last

[daloonie]

So, since there is NO actual plug into the OBD port performed during your inspections, you could use a stand alone ECU if you so desired, as long as your tailpipe 'sniffer test' emissions are below the given maximum levels?

Pretty much yes 👍

Especially with vehicles that don't get wrung out in high RPMs that often....I daily take mine to 1 Hundo coming off the clover leaf on the way to work. Its to hard to resist!

Italian tune-up 😉👍

A radiator then seems to be necessary. Anybody know if the stock radiator is double or single pass?
Have looked at mishimoto but don't like the shroud as it doesn't look traffic friendly. I might be wrong? I do have cheaper dual pass options like puma speeds offering.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I don't know what Puma Speed gets for their radiator, but there is also the Mountune which is a triple pass (IF you can get that there, and IF they ever come back into stock ).

Also, there is the Pro Alloy, (I think a single pass, like the factory radiator, but MUCH MORE capacity) albeit at almost twice the co$t of the Mountune.

 

[DoomsdayMelody]

I don't know what Puma Speed gets for their radiator, but there is also the Mountune (IF you can get that there, and IF they ever come back into stock ).

Also, there is the Pro Alloy, albeit almost twice the co$t of the Mountune.

If he’s shopping pro alloy he may as well foot the bill to import the whoosh one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rosho]

Soooo this happened:

This block was a reworked block with stronger mahle liners. According to the engine builder. But that didn't help when the headgasket broke and caused a crack in the liner of cylinder 4.

Anyways. I'm sick of replacing engines now and thinking of getting a sleeved block and probably forged internals. But I'm looking for advice here. Been looking at this setup: https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/ENG-BLK-ECO1.6-HD-01K-1-6l-ecoboost-heavy-duty-block-conversion.html
But seeing as that is quite expensive I've also been looking at Pumaspeed's offerings and maybe getting their sleeves and maybe closed deck: https://pumaspeed.co.uk/product-Pumaspeed-Ductile-Sleeve-Liners_18033.jsp
Maybe pairing them with some pistons and maybe some connecting rods. This is where I'm really lost as there are many offerings at very different prize points. Anybody here that could offer any advice? Not looking for maximum power, but running around 250-280whp reliably at least.

A definate for me though is ARP headstuds by now and maybe the Athena MLS headgasket.

I'm running an X47R as my daily and don't beat on it too hard, but long pulls on the highway has not been uncommon.
I have a 15C lower thermostat, R-Sport Pro 400 intercooler.

First of all, this isnt oem headgasket is probably athena, is not so good as oem, was some failures on them, make sure you use oem one, rally cars using oem ones for reason... they going thru lot of heat, stress and abuse on track, especialy 4wd conversion

Second; are you using maxd maping? If not why no? If yes which version?

Third, are you using stock piston rings on liners as i see pistons was oem, was they gaped corectly, and it was hooned with torque plate one?

Fourt, did you sure there were no liner drop in that cilinder, and that make gasket leak?
Maybe you know how much interference was between liner and block bore?

 

[daloonie]

I didn't build this engine so, don't know the make of the gasket, but the pistons and rings should be oem according to builder.

I did use maxd tuning, version 4902B.

I know it hasn't been honed with a torque plate. I have no idea about the rings as I didn't build this engine.

Doesn't feel or look like there is a liner drop, and don't know anything about interference between liner and block.

 

[Rosho]

I didn't build this engine so, don't know the make of the gasket, but the pistons and rings should be oem according to builder.

I did use maxd tuning, version 4902B.

I know it hasn't been honed with a torque plate. I have no idea about the rings as I didn't build this engine.

Doesn't feel or look like there is a liner drop, and don't know anything about interference between liner and block.

Ok that B file explains a lot since it need 102oct fuel (or 100oct with low comp pistons) it was definetley detonation, it was also probably head lifted from that gasket (is thicker than oem) what was your boost on logs if you log car? B file is rated to 1.9bar, but with wrong actuator spring or adjustment, could pretty quick be over 2bar, so this, with extra heat generated (summer temps) is recepie for disaster, i would advise you to run 4902 without B, maybe 10hp less but "only" 1.7 bar is much more reliable for those engines

Also make sure if you will use arp head studs to hone with plate, because of bore disortion with extra bolt torque

 

[daloonie]

It's the tune I got from lewis. And the X47 4702 tune. So I just ran the newest revision I thought was ok as it was stated to give a tad more power under the curve and better drivability. Wasn't stated as the 102ron tune.
https://pumaspeed.co.uk/product-MAXD-Out-X-47R-Map-upgrade-file-V4902b_17838.jsp
When I logged it I never saw more than 23-24psi which is just shy of 1.7bar.

 

[Rosho]

It's the tune I got from lewis. And the X47 4702 tune. So I just ran the newest revision I thought was ok as it was stated to give a tad more power under the curve and better drivability. Wasn't stated as the 102ron tune.
https://pumaspeed.co.uk/product-MAXD-Out-X-47R-Map-upgrade-file-V4902b_17838.jsp
When I logged it I never saw more than 23-24psi which is just shy of 1.7bar.

Did you log both of sensors? TIP and MAP? Also TPS? Could be throttle closure, because of overboost on spool? I know a lot of those maps, also engines, so is very strange that it broke liner, even stock ones which are only 0.5mm thin, engine hold nice with maxd maping, they have very good knock control, do you have knock sensors back on engine same position as it was when you dissasembly the block?

 

[PhoenixM3]

Problem with a 2.3L GDI-Turbo in a Fiesta? One word. Traction. I think you'll need all-wheel drive to get the most out of a swap like that. Basically you want a Fiesta RS.

....and what is wrong with that thought?

 

[daloonie]

Did you log both of sensors? TIP and MAP? Also TPS? Could be throttle closure, because of overboost on spool? I know a lot of those maps, also engines, so is very strange that it broke liner, even stock ones which are only 0.5mm thin, engine hold nice with maxd maping, they have very good knock control, do you have knock sensors back on engine same position as it was when you dissasembly the block?

I have some logs, but never looked at tps, so you could be right on the overboost condition. I have a turbosmart wga with what should be a 9psi spring. I checked with compressed air and it moved around 8-10psi.
It was preloaded with 2 full turns.

Knock sensors were installed, although I had issues with engine 2 as 1 connector bracket was broken on the intake manifold. Tape solved it then, zip tie made it very secure on engine 3 so it had constant good connection. I changed 1 knock sensor for a brand new one.

 

[Ecmdrw5]

Problem with a 2.3L GDI-Turbo in a Fiesta? One word. Traction. I think you'll need all-wheel drive to get the most out of a swap like that. Basically you want a Fiesta RS.

[emoji848]so where’s the guy whose taken a wrecked Focus RS and hacked up his Fiesta to get that drivetrain in there at? BRB, need to go change my pants now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gtx3076]

[emoji848]so where’s the guy whose taken a wrecked Focus RS and hacked up his Fiesta to get that drivetrain in there at? BRB, need to go change my pants now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For folks that have the know how and money, I applaud them. For laymen, mod hobbyists like myself, I'd rather get a vehicle that comes stock with a 2.3EB.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk