Brake wobble/ Upgrade time?

[Blk16 FiST]

I’ve been experiencing some “wobble” when braking, especially downhill. I’m guessing the rotors are warped. Did a little shopping trip on whooshmotorsports.com and came up with this combo, what do you guys think?

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[TyphoonFiST]

I’ve been experiencing some “wobble” when braking, especially downhill. I’m guessing the rotors are warped. Did a little shopping trip on whooshmotorsports.com and came up with this combo, what do you guys think?

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Rotors don't get warped * they become out of round. You can use a micrometer on the rotors and measure them in multiple spots to see if they've become out of round and how much material is left if you would like to Turn them to make them true again. Or just replace them every brake change and not be a frugal meatball like myself.

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[Blk16 FiST]

Well I don’t have real need for crazy brakes but the upgrade would look great and be very functional.. good brakes are essential in NOVA


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[TyphoonFiST]

Well I don’t have real need for crazy brakes but the upgrade would look great and be very functional.. good brakes are essential in NOVA


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That setup from whoosh would be a great addition! I run EBC slotted with Yellows all the way around.

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[green_henry]

I think that would be a solid upgrade. If you plan on going to the track, I'd recommend YellowStuff. If not, RedStuff should be less dusty and fine for DD

 

[Blk16 FiST]

I think that would be a solid upgrade. If you plan on going to the track, I'd recommend YellowStuff. If not, RedStuff should be less dusty and fine for DD

I’ve had the car since Sep 2020 and haven’t taken it to a track and my wife frowns upon the idea lol.. the RedStuff should be fine for my normal driving


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[Pdubs369]

That setup from whoosh would be a great addition! I run EBC slotted with Yellows all the way around.

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I have the same setup! Waiting on the SS brake lines but threw the brakes on, had a couple time where I had to hit the brakes HARD and they bit really well! No brake fade through “spirited driving” so I would say that the EBC slotted with YellowStuff pads are perfect for the daily driver that beats on it every now and then. I’ll give an update when I get SS lines.

 

[dhminer]

EBC pads and rotors are cheap on carid with free shipping. Save you some $. I just did my first brake change with EBC slotted rotors and yellow stuff pads and it feels great even without the stainless lines.

Either way it’ll be a solid setup.

 

[Jabbit]

Just a few $$ more and you can get the Whoosh BBK that includes stainless lines.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Just a few $$ more and you can get the Whoosh BBK that includes stainless lines.

I was thinking the very same thing before I purchased the whoosh rotors, stainless lines and factory summer pads, but then I ABHOR the requisite spacers needed to run even the 15" kit version of those with my wheel setups.

Also, a BBK would only be for 'looks/bragging rights' as I do not need them for my uses with this car, certainly not enough for me to justify using spacers. .

 

[Intuit]

I’ve been experiencing some “wobble” when braking, especially downhill. I’m guessing the rotors are warped. ............

If the caliper slide mounts were functioning, you wouldn't feel it. Experiences with a prior vehicle showed me, if the caliper slide mounts were functioning, the rotors wouldn't actually "warp" and require turning on a lathe in the first place. The following thread details a solution to the problem.
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/caliper-slide-mounts-the-permanent-fix.29023/

BTW, if a parts store says they'll turn your rotors for free, don't trust them. O'Reilly Auto ruined a set then tried to fool me into buying new ones. The store clerk failed to mount them flush on the lathe. Despite going in looking like [II II] they came back saying were below minimum thickness. These were newer rotors used with organic (soft) pads so I knew that was BS. Upon inspection, one edge of the rotor looked like [II I] and the other edge 180 degrees opposite looked like this [I II]. The manager's excuse was, "my car did it". Uh, right, so somehow my rotor must've been mounted like \ against the caliper, but the pads wear evenly. Tell me another one... 🙄

 

[Sam4]

I spent years in Parts and know rotors for "non-domestic" vehicles stopped being cut 40 years ago. Benz 450's and Land Cruisers were at the top of the scales w/ big steel plates for rotors. nobody cut them....( I paint with a broad brush, maybe 1 clean up cut....)

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I used to Cut rotors all the time. Just had to know how to use the machine. I was constantly cleaning up after No talent Ass hats who would use it wrong....f-up the bits. Not keep the machine clean. Misplace adapters....I could go on and on...there wasn't a weekend where I would come in and have a pile of rotors to turn to get true that would be waiting for me. Some of the rotors people wanted turned was of legendary status...like paper thin or showing vanes. Or the best ones were ridden so hard and put away wet that there were nothing left of the face or even fractured Hats that wanted me to "fix". I would proceed to bring them back to the counter and say ...Today I don't have a Forging or welding degree in metallurgy and the rotors were now boat anchors.....nothing more. Get them out of my sight. I am still amazed at the shit I was brought and how people could drive on the brakes even after feeling the pulsing and grinding for the lord only knows how many miles.

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[Sam4]

What I'm reading here is "order new rotors".

 

[LilPartyBox]

I've been too busy to start a post about R1 Concepts but I installed their setup & highly recommend them. I went with a pair of their GEOMET slotted rotors with their semi-metallic pads for a grand total of $102.09. Cheap af so of course I was weary. I've been on them for 10k miles so far and I love them. I drive hard and the braking performance of their semi-metallic pads is excellent - better than the Hawk HPS street pads. Easy to modulate with great initial bite even when cold. And very, very, VERY little dusting. I've only faded them once coming to stop for a red light from 120+ mph (I play too much). That being said, I wouldn't auto-x with them lol But for an aggressive street setup they haven't let me down. Even that single fade incident was easily managed by pumping the brakes a couple times (and puckering up). I don't go through that section so fast anymore

The trick with them is to sign up for their coupon codes and just wait. The last one they sent me was for 30% off.

I also put them on my Mazda5 with the Mazdaspeed3 brake conversion and they've been great there as well. That MUCH larger setup cost $223.13 cuz I didn't have time to wait for a coupon code to show up in my inbox. Still reasonable tho. The MZ5 proved to be a good rust test since we hardly drive it and the rotors are rusting over all the time. But the centers on these GEOMET rotors have yet to rust...AT ALL...the centers look brand new after a year! After 10k, the centers on the FiST look exactly the same. R1 is my new go to for brakes. I guess sometime you DON'T get what you pay for.

 

[Saponetta]

Ceramic pads are more likely to warp rotors. They don't absorb heat, so they transfer more heat to the rotor, hub, and caliper/brake fluid.

Probably not an issue for this guy. But definitely sometjig to consider for other people who maybe don't know a lot about brakes.

 

[kevinatfms]

If you are getting the brakes hot enough to leave pad deposits(what people keep calling "warping" above) then i would start looking into the brake system functioning properly.

Do you have pad drag in the rear due to sticking caliper slides or caliper pistons? These are usual issues with the Fiesta rear brake system which can be corrected with regular brake service(grease slide pins and check for sticking caliper pistons).