Brake job mistake

[dmb]

Ya Dave is a good guy who is willing to help us out, I learned a lot today now i'm worried about changing the rear pads with out a tool.

 

[D1JL]

Ya Dave is a good guy who is willing to help us out, I learned a lot today now i'm worried about changing the rear pads with out a tool.

Thanks.
There is a way to do that with just a pair of needle nose plyers.

I have done this kind of stuff for many years.



I have done so much, with so little, for so long.
I am now perfectly qualified to do anything with nothing.




Dave

 

[Ford ST]

I can do a brake job in my sleep it's to easy. Did you push the caliper back in while the other side was disassembled? One side at a time allwas. If you push the caliper back in while the opposite side is disassembled it can push the piston out. If you are worried about damaging anything loosen the bleeder screw before you push the caliper back in.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[D1JL]

I can do a brake job in my sleep it's to easy. Did you push the caliper back in while the other side was disassembled? One side at a time allwas. If you push the caliper back in while the opposite side is disassembled it can push the piston out. If you are worried about damaging anything loosen the bleeder screw before you push the caliper back in.

Apparently you have been sleeping when doing brake jobs.

You should ALWAYS open the bleeder when pushing the caliper piston back in.
This prevents fluid from being forced back into the master cylinder.
Even more so on ABS cars as this may cause an ABS valve to get stuck.
The main reason for this is,.
Most of the fluid contaminants settle in the calipers or wheel cylinders, so now you would be pushing that back into the system as well.

But of course you can work on your car anyway you want.
Please just let me drive behind you.




Dave

 

[Ford ST]

Apparently you have been sleeping when doing brake jobs.

You should ALWAYS open the bleeder when pushing the caliper piston back in.
This prevents fluid from being forced back into the master cylinder.
Even more so on ABS cars as this may cause an ABS valve to get stuck.
The main reason for this is,.
Most of the fluid contaminants settle in the calipers or wheel cylinders, so now you would be pushing that back into the system as well.

But of course you can work on your car anyway you want.
Please just let me drive behind you.




Dave

You are right. Unfortunately this thing called rust sometimes makes opening that bleeder valve very risky. I never saw a factory service manual that recommended this, but I do agree opening the bleeder screw is overall a good thing.

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[JDG]

I can do a brake job in my sleep it's to easy. Did you push the caliper back in while the other side was disassembled? One side at a time allwas. If you push the caliper back in while the opposite side is disassembled it can push the piston out. If you are worried about damaging anything loosen the bleeder screw before you push the caliper back in.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

This is literally what I thought too. I had done 6 brake jobs prior without any issues not caused my corroded slide pins or seized rotor retainer bolts that needed to be drilled out. I even finished the install in an hour. But when I went to go bed the brake pads in, I knew something was wrong when the brakes felt real soft and I could not engage the ABS in the front. Got back to my house and noticed that there was fluid leaking from each front caliper piston. I did each side one at a time, so the issue was not what you describe. The brake pad was completely gone on the old pad (metal on metal) so I am wondering if this contributed to something.

Hoping the new calipers plus a brake bleed will solve my issues unlike the OP.

 

[D1JL]

I do agree with some of you that all of the information about doing a proper brake job is not in the service manuals.
However, that does not mean it is a good idea to do the job incorrectly.

Here is another tip that is NOT in most of the service manuals but again it should be followed.
This is one that causes a lot of people trouble and may have contributed to some of the problems described above.

You want to take care that you do not cock the piston when pushing it back in. If the piston does go in crooked it could damage the seals or the cylinder walls of the caliper bore. And using excessive force can possibly damage the piston itself.


Once again, you can do work on your car any way you like.
I prefer to not take chances on failures that are so easy to prevent.




Dave

 

[CGLENN27]

I do agree with some of you that all of the information about doing a proper brake job is not in the service manuals.
However, that does not mean it is a good idea to do the job incorrectly.

Here is another tip that is NOT in most of the service manuals but again it should be followed.
This is one that causes a lot of people trouble and may have contributed to some of the problems described above.

You want to take care that you do not cock the piston when pushing it back in. If the piston does go in crooked it could damage the seals or the cylinder walls of the caliper bore. And using excessive force can possibly damage the piston itself.


Once again, you can do work on your car any way you like.
I prefer to not take chances on failures that are so easy to prevent.




Dave

What is your preferred method of compressing a standard caliper (like a front FiSt one)? Do you use a C-clamp, giant channel locks, or an actual caliper compression tool (like the one that has a brake pad looking thing at one end of it)?

 

[D1JL]

What is your preferred method of compressing a standard caliper (like a front FiSt one)? Do you use a C-clamp, giant channel locks, or an actual caliper compression tool (like the one that has a brake pad looking thing at one end of it)?

The caliper compression tool is the best.
However, I must admit I have on many occasions used a C-clamp but I do leave the old pad in place so as to apply equal pressure on the piston.



Dave

 

[D1JL]

+1 on the caliper tool. They're so cheap there's no reason you shouldn't own one if you're doing your own work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012N18WIU

Seriously, just get it. I had picked this one up a long while back as a cheapie/disposable tool but it's been nothing short of bulletproof.

That looks like a very good kit and I do have one similar..

I however, started working disk brakes on 1965 Lincolns when putting those brakes on 1965 $1066 Mustangs.
At that time those tool kits had not even been sold yet.




Dave

 

[alexrex20]

+1 on the caliper tool. They're so cheap there's no reason you shouldn't own one if you're doing your own work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012N18WIU

Seriously, just get it. I had picked this one up a long while back as a cheapie/disposable tool but it's been nothing short of bulletproof.

A C-clamp and one of the old pads is even cheaper. That specific kit is for rear calipers anyway (rotating piston).

 

[Ford ST]

A C-clamp and one of the old pads is even cheaper. That specific kit is for rear calipers anyway (rotating piston).

Yes C-clamp and old pad is the best for front calipers.

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[Intuit]

I couldn't get it fixed myself and both local Ford dealership basically refused to work on it unless I put ford pads and rotors on. I limped it to a GMC dealer and traded it in as is on a truck. My next plan was brake booster. I wasn't loosing fluid from the calipers though...

You probably could've sold it on the forum here.

I suspect the reason for the policy, if it is a policy, is for liability. It may also serve to address past complaints about a reduction in braking force; which is a common complaint in general for post work braking. Then there are complains about squeaking brakes. It is the ultimate goal for any service center to be "one and done". For multiple reasons they HATE come backs.

It may be a ploy to sell more hardware, but I can also see the other side of things.

 

[Intuit]

Yes C-clamp and old pad is the best for front calipers.

Haven't had to do the Fist yet, but for my prior car and current motorcycle, could just set the pad on the piston(s) and use both hands to evenly squeeze the piston back in. It's slow... so slow to look at it you wouldn't think it were moving. But after a few minutes of constant hand pressure the piston would be flush.

 

[boombots]

You probably could've sold it on the forum here.

I suspect the reason for the policy, if it is a policy, is for liability. It may also serve to address past complaints about a reduction in braking force; which is a common complaint in general for post work braking. Then there are complains about squeaking brakes. It is the ultimate goal for any service center to be "one and done". For multiple reasons they HATE come backs.

It may be a ploy to sell more hardware, but I can also see the other side of things.

I actually got over KBB trade in, and I got the car for a steal so I didn't make out too bad (minus the grand I had into the brake issue). I do miss the car a lot but the truck I have is much more practical for me.

I do understand their side but I feel they made no real attempt. They refused to cycle the ABS pump to rule it out as they claim there is no process in the books for the ST.

The main issue I had with the repair process was them saying it was fixed and me leaving and almost rear ending a car and having a tech cuss me out saying I was a full of crap. When I forced him to drive it he realized I was right, but said they were done working on it. And charging me a few hundred bucks for that too.

Either way, I screwed something up so I can't be too mad they refused to fix it. Just not 100% sure what I did, or even how it happened.


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[dmb]

Thanks.
There is a way to do that with just a pair of needle nose plyers.

I have done this kind of stuff for many years.



I have done so much, with so little, for so long.
I am now perfectly qualified to do anything with nothing.




Dave

Oh I see that the rotated caliper is for the hand brake. a cb200 honda used a mechanical caliper on the front that needed to be screwed in too. you are right, brake work has to be right and tight. I've seen some stupid stuff that i have had nothing to do with. Dennis

 

[D1JL]

Based on posts here, not all of the details on doing a proper brake job is listed in some service manuals.
I am sure however, that the members here are very consciences about working on their own cars.

Please consider this.
In the state of California (and I am sure others) there is no requirement of any kind of automotive maintenance/repair knowledge or even owning proper tools, to open a service garage.
There also no requirement to hire knowledgeable service personal or even if they can read a manual.
All that is required is money.

Think about this, the next time you are on a freeway with someone on your bumper and you have to stop quickly.





Dave

 

[dmb]

its amazing their isn't a wreck every 1/4 mile the way people drive, and don't get me going on the idiot truck drivers driving like they are in cars. wait till it rains gridlock everywhere.

 

[JDG]

This is literally what I thought too. I had done 6 brake jobs prior without any issues not caused my corroded slide pins or seized rotor retainer bolts that needed to be drilled out. I even finished the install in an hour. But when I went to go bed the brake pads in, I knew something was wrong when the brakes felt real soft and I could not engage the ABS in the front. Got back to my house and noticed that there was fluid leaking from each front caliper piston. I did each side one at a time, so the issue was not what you describe. The brake pad was completely gone on the old pad (metal on metal) so I am wondering if this contributed to something.

Hoping the new calipers plus a brake bleed will solve my issues unlike the OP.

The new calipers fixed the issue. I have not yet pulled the pistons out of the old calipers yet but I plan to do so and post photos of any damage.

 

[CGLENN27]

+1 on the caliper tool. They're so cheap there's no reason you shouldn't own one if you're doing your own work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012N18WIU

Seriously, just get it. I had picked this one up a long while back as a cheapie/disposable tool but it's been nothing short of bulletproof.

Thank you for the suggestion! I'll definitely buy this considering this is the first car that has had the rear brake set-up that requires a tool. You got this exact one?