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Bilstein B8 vs Koni Yellow

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#1
Using my car for lots and lots of autocross. Any opinions on the B8 vs Koni? AFAIK those who run Konis set them to full stiff, are the B8's comparable?
 


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#2
My $.02...

Konis if you're going to autox.

The bilsteins are nice, but the adjustable valving of the konis will make subtle changes due to surface/temp/tires/driver much easier. If you're running them at full stiff, then look into getting them re-valved stiffer. I run mine about 2/3rd's of the way up and have good luck with my setup there, but ymmv.
 


OP
Typical_Dodson
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Thread Starter #3
Don't own either set of shocks at the moment, but most of the reading I have done says to set the Koni's at full stiff. Seems unnecessary to have adjustable shocks if you're only leaving them at stiff.
 


KKaWing

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#4
You would want the adjust-ability of the Koni's for autocross if you do it competitively. More so for stock class where you might want a stiffer front sway bar to help transitions and compensate with rear shocks to full stiff... or whatever settings which suit your style.
 


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#5
I agree about the Koni yellows. I usually run the front rebound as high as possible, and then adjust the rears up from full soft to get the rear rotation I want. If i can't get the rear to rotate (or good turn in response), I start decreasing rebound on front. If that does not help, a little more toe out in front would be my next adjustment. And will probably run 34psi front RE71R(and adjust to get best grip and tire temps across the tread) and adjust the rear for balance (I tend to run the lower side of the pressure on the rear for rotation vs the higher pressure smaller contact patch that usually can give me snap oversteer).

I'd also wonder whether Bilstein B6 or B8 has correct stock dimensions to be Street class legal.
 


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M-Sport fan

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#6
I agree about the Koni yellows. I usually run the front rebound as high as possible, and then adjust the rears up from full soft to get the rear rotation I want. If i can't get the rear to rotate (or good turn in response), I start decreasing compression on front. If that does not help, a little more toe out in front would be my next adjustment. And will probably run 34psi front RE71R(and adjust to get best grip and tire temps across the tread) and adjust the rear for balance (I tend to run the lower side of the pressure on the rear for rotation vs the higher pressure smaller contact patch that usually can give me snap oversteer).

I'd also wonder whether Bilstein B6 or B8 has correct stock dimensions to be Street class legal.
I forgot now, are you the one who adapted Koni RACE (whatever model #) double adjustable internals/'inserts' into our factory strut assembly?

I ask because you mention adjusting the front COMPRESSION above, and the off the shelf yellows for our platform are ONLY REBOUND adjustable front OR back. [???:)]
 


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#7
I forgot now, are you the one who adapted Koni RACE (whatever model #) double adjustable internals/'inserts' into our factory strut assembly?

I ask because you mention adjusting the front COMPRESSION above, and the off the shelf yellows for our platform are ONLY REBOUND adjustable front OR back. [???:)]
My mistake. I meant rebound for OTS Koni yellows. I had a set of custom valve double adjustables for my Mazda 3 I autocrossed in the past with adjustable compression and rebound. They were very modified but worked well.

Thx for the correction. Yes, rebound only
 


M-Sport fan

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#8
My mistake. I meant rebound for OTS Koni yellows. I had a set of custom valve double adjustables for my Mazda 3 I autocrossed in the past with adjustable compression and rebound. They were very modified but worked well.

Thx for the correction. Yes, rebound only
Yes, I WISH we had the DOUBLE adjustable Sport yellows available for these cars (as an affordable SEPARATE compression AND rebound adjustable option), like I had on my f body. [:(]

Someone on here did exactly what I said above (putting a Koni RACE DA insert into our strut 'shell'), but for the life of me, I cannot recall which member it is.
 


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