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Best FREE & Budget Fiesta ST Mods for Maximum Power on The Cheap

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St. Peters
#22
Did this mod yesterday, with the bumper on like the O.P. I used a 1-1/2" hole saw in multiple places and then an electric rotary grinder with a sandpaper wheel to smooth the edges. I'll check for water next time it rains, but my air box also draws from a bottom tube, so it should only be a mist that'll clean the intake lol.



 


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#23
So I've looked through a few builds, and they tend to be either mostly stock or all-out. Is anybody's build close to this setup that has done some sort of dyno testing? I've mostly ignored performance mods for cost/benefit reasons to date. Are we talking a 10 HP gain, or a 50 HP one? These are some reasonably priced mods, but it still runs up a tab well into the $1300+ range if you do all of the above. Are there any builds that could give us an idea of performance?
 


BRGT350

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#24
Not sure why I didn't realize this before, but the cutting open of the shroud is pretty much what Ford Racing has for the Focus ST induction kit. They supply a plastic part that links the airbox snorkel to the shroud. The key to doing this mod correctly is to make sure there is something to duct air from the area ahead of the radiator to the airbox snorkel and not allow air to be blown around. The hole in the shroud should also be matched to the size of the snorkel, in terms of cross sectional area. Meaning, if the oval of snorkel measures 4 square inches, then the opening in the shroud should match. That means you could use a 2.25" hole saw, 2.25" ducting, and a velocity stack to smooth out the airflow. The cross sectional area remains constant and you lose the least amount of air for the radiator and all the air removed from the radiator is going to the airbox.
 


RAAMaudio

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#25
Using a port tube from Partsexpress.com would be pretty easy, round hold, slide it in, glue with ABS cement or make some little brackets and use rivets or screws to secure it...the only tricky part is connecting to the oval inlet. I just recalled I was looking into that but found the NACA duct in my race parts and decided to use it. trimmed a bit more one could be used instead of the port duct.

I bought 4 of the 3" ducts, two for brake ducts where the fog lights are(newer and better plan worked out) one for the air inlet to the air inlet and one for the outlet at the filter housing into the side of it, then used the NACA duct instead.
 


Young L

Active member
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Richmond
#26
Not sure why I didn't realize this before, but the cutting open of the shroud is pretty much what Ford Racing has for the Focus ST induction kit. They supply a plastic part that links the airbox snorkel to the shroud. The key to doing this mod correctly is to make sure there is something to duct air from the area ahead of the radiator to the airbox snorkel and not allow air to be blown around. The hole in the shroud should also be matched to the size of the snorkel, in terms of cross sectional area. Meaning, if the oval of snorkel measures 4 square inches, then the opening in the shroud should match. That means you could use a 2.25" hole saw, 2.25" ducting, and a velocity stack to smooth out the airflow. The cross sectional area remains constant and you lose the least amount of air for the radiator and all the air removed from the radiator is going to the airbox.
you mean something like I posted ...

when i first saw the engine bay and that little intake tube goin to the box it reminded me of the BMW 1series. the intake has the same just duals and open not reversed like ours. I immediately thought about these scoops my buddy put on his 128i

http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/INDUCTION/RPI-RAI.html

they are something similar to these
 


BRGT350

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#27
you mean something like I posted ...
kind of, but the Ford Racing Focus ST scoop is more of an oval shaped duct with an air horn shaped at the air inlet. The BMW one uses what looks like a deflector.

RAAMaudio, isn't it great having a parts bin to pull from. :) My brother and I have all sorts of left over tubing, aluminum, random ducts, and other fun stuff that we have collected over the years from different projects. We have a pretty good idea on what we can build using what we have laying around. The hard part for sure is connecting ducting to the factory snorkel. I am sure we can easily fabricate something.
 


MOFiST

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#28
[MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION] posted this up last year> LINK
The plumbing pipe air scoop mod is on my to do list. [coolsmile]
 


RAAMaudio

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#29
That Steeda part looks promising, I had something similar on the 06 Vette.

Should be able heat up and change the outlet shape a bit or section it and glue with ABS cement.

Before I saw this I was thinking one could take two pieces of pipe and put in the end up a section of ABS tubing and heat it up to shape it to fit the stock inlet.

-------------

Yes, having a junk bin, several sorted out ones...very helpful when building stuff and saves time and money!

I have a ton of odds and ends here from honeycomb sheets, perforated steel I used yesterday to cover the window I just installed in the trailer ramp door on the inside so it can be walked on, DOM, SS tubing and elbows, Aluminum, and boxes of little scraps that get dug into regularly. Also I have hundreds of bolts, nuts, washers, screws.....
 


BoostBumps

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#30
[MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION] posted this up last year> LINK
The plumbing pipe air scoop mod is on my to do list. [coolsmile]
Thanks MoFisT!
[MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION]

Details please...including source links...thanks!





 


Sekred

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#31
Thanks MoFisT!

[MENTION=62]Sekred[/MENTION]

Details please...including source links...thanks!





Hi BoostBumps.

I used PVC plumbing fittings, 50mm.

PVC fittings.jpg

I also made an attempt to try and force air flow into the OEM intake using plastic cut to shape.
looking at the image you can see the plastic on the left side. I also made a another piece that attaches to the underside of the bumper, the two overlap when the bumper is fitted.
On the right hand side there is another plastic piece cut to shape near the inside of the headlight to try and seal that side.

Slide1.JPG

Head Light plastic.jpg
 


RAAMaudio

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#32
I love this stuff, most of my life I had little money to mod with so DIY the majority of my parts, fun beating big money builds with backyard scrap pile stuff, which I have done hundreds of times:)
 


BRGT350

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#33
compared to a lot of "low cost" type work, Sekred's scoop looks outstanding and paid attention to detail. Blocking off the air on the sides and having a "horn" shape at the inlet. Nice work!! This spring I will be doing something similar to my brother's 1.0L Fiesta and my ST. We have a bunch of left over velocity stacks, ducting, and aluminum to work with. We will post results when we are done.
 


RAAMaudio

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#34
Sekred, great work, sorry I forgot to mention it so just edited this post:)

ABS plastic is a bit easier to work with if you want to heat and mold it and already black so tend to use it when I can.

For those wanting a ABX flare, better than just a rounded over lip like I was using for brake ducts check this link, I was not able to cut and past the pictures. They have other parts as well, great company, I have ordered $$$$$$ over many years.

3" flare

http://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-psp-3if-3-inside-flare-for-port-tube--268-369

4" flare

http://www.parts-express.com/speaker-cabinet-port-tube-4-id-x-4-l-flared--260-403

------------------

I have been looking all over for oval flares or at least rounded over inlet ovals to insert in my front bumper cover, if you find any let me know please:)
 


Sekred

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#35
Thanks for the compliments. Most of my ideas are adaptions of something else I have seen over the years, so no rocket science here.
Regarding the intake scoop a oval shape around 2" x 3-3.5", 45 degree angle would be near perfect.
 


OP
BlueBomber

BlueBomber

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Thread Starter #37
Just curious, if cutting a hole makes for better ambient temps on air intake, why would SVT not have done that as they engineered.
Funny you say that because the Ford Racing Intake tube for FoST includes a friggin template and tells you to cut a hole in the same area on the focus so its intake tubes draw cool air - hence SVT DID think of it hehe
 


BoostBumps

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#38
Hi BoostBumps.

I used PVC plumbing fittings, 50mm.

View attachment 4490

I also made an attempt to try and force air flow into the OEM intake using plastic cut to shape.
looking at the image you can see the plastic on the left side. I also made a another piece that attaches to the underside of the bumper, the two overlap when the bumper is fitted.
On the right hand side there is another plastic piece cut to shape near the inside of the headlight to try and seal that side.

View attachment 4491
Thanks Sekred...very helpful! The added snorkel should prevent heat from the front face of the radiator from getting drawn in (particularly important when traveling at very low speeds or when stopped in traffic) since the snorkel now extends the port opening well past the face of the radiator...

I found these 3" ID parts locally to use for mine....

039923195968.jpg

51U678wbZYL__SL1000_.jpg
 


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Location
Cincinnati
#39
Just did mine and promptly drove through a rainstorm. Water all over the snorkel and cut out area. Terrifed of injesting water. Thinking of hydrosock stuck to the inside of intake box with self tapping screws. Anyone worried about hydrolocking or other water related issues?
 


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Ridge
#40
Just did mine and promptly drove through a rainstorm. Water all over the snorkel and cut out area. Terrifed of injesting water. Thinking of hydrosock stuck to the inside of intake box with self tapping screws. Anyone worried about hydrolocking or other water related issues?
There are drain holes in the bottom of the factory box, although by opening a hole here you increase your chances of hydrolock I think the chances are slim.
 


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