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ARP Headstuds

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Location
Salem, OR, USA
#1
Does anyone know if we can put headstuds in the motor without pulling the head and cams?

My last tune on my s280 with aux fuel and e40 is peaking at 33-35 PSI, and my tuner said I could push the gasket. I wanted to throw some arps in it to be safe.
 


wetwea33

Active member
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langhorne
#2
Does anyone know if we can put headstuds in the motor without pulling the head and cams?

My last tune on my s280 with aux fuel and e40 is peaking at 33-35 PSI, and my tuner said I could push the gasket. I wanted to throw some arps in it to be safe.
You have to remove the cams. I blew my headgasket at 34psi with my s280 and overheated the motor and caused stress cracks in cylinders 2&4. My original plan was to replace the head gasket and do arp studs. Pulling the head was a giant PIA.

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PhoenixM3

Senior Member
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#3
You have to remove the cams. I blew my headgasket at 34psi with my s280 and overheated the motor and caused stress cracks in cylinders 2&4. My original plan was to replace the head gasket and do arp studs. Pulling the head was a giant PIA.

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I will factor this into my “spare motor” build. Appreciate the tip.
 


OP
L
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Salem, OR, USA
Thread Starter #4
H
You have to remove the cams. I blew my headgasket at 34psi with my s280 and overheated the motor and caused stress cracks in cylinders 2&4. My original plan was to replace the head gasket and do arp studs. Pulling the head was a giant PIA.

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How does one go about retiming everything if I pull the cams? Never done it before 😩
 


wetwea33

Active member
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langhorne
#5
H


How does one go about retiming everything if I pull the cams? Never done it before [emoji30]
You just have to buy a timing tools kit and have the car in tdc. There is a tool that stops the crank from rotating past it and a tool that locks the cam sprockets and one that also holds the flywheel. It's not super hard but like I said pulling the head is a pia, some people even argue it's easier to just swap motors. I would just personally back the boost down to 30-32psi. The cylinder walls on this motor are incredibly thin and with this tiny turbo your cylinder pressures and temps are gonna be high.

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OP
L
Messages
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Location
Salem, OR, USA
Thread Starter #6
You just have to buy a timing tools kit and have the car in tdc. There is a tool that stops the crank from rotating past it and a tool that locks the cam sprockets and one that also holds the flywheel. It's not super hard but like I said pulling the head is a pia, some people even argue it's easier to just swap motors. I would just personally back the boost down to 30-32psi. The cylinder walls on this motor are incredibly thin and with this tiny turbo your cylinder pressures and temps are gonna be high.

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I just wanna go fast tho 😭

I'll look into it, ty I appreciate it 😀
 


Rocketst

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#7
You just have to buy a timing tools kit and have the car in tdc. There is a tool that stops the crank from rotating past it and a tool that locks the cam sprockets and one that also holds the flywheel. It's not super hard but like I said pulling the head is a pia, some people even argue it's easier to just swap motors. I would just personally back the boost down to 30-32psi. The cylinder walls on this motor are incredibly thin and with this tiny turbo your cylinder pressures and temps are gonna be high.

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Reason I bought a sleeved block... Very thin walls.

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Rocketst

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#9
There's a TON of shit you can do without getting into the motor man. You know we have lighter cv axles now right? Do you know how rotational mass effects acceleration? Tried lighter rims? I'm running rpf1s custom drilled from fmwheels. They are 15.2 lbs per corner. What about lightened panels? I get it, the fiesta is already light but for 3k you could lose 15 lbs on the flywheel, reduce each corner by 7 lbs, and get a 30% reduction in rotational mass from the new CV axle a on Ron's site.

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Rocketst

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#10
Another thing you could try if you wanted a power added is, install a meth system and bring the boost down to a safe level. Or NOS.

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Rocketst

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#11
If your gonna do the head bolts though, just go ahead and get an athena head gasket. It'll lock in that boost and give you the added security of having one of the best head gaskets in the business. Alright I'm off my soapbox.

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wetwea33

Active member
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#12
There's a TON of shit you can do without getting into the motor man. You know we have lighter cv axles now right? Do you know how rotational mass effects acceleration? Tried lighter rims? I'm running rpf1s custom drilled from fmwheels. They are 15.2 lbs per corner. What about lightened panels? I get it, the fiesta is already light but for 3k you could lose 15 lbs on the flywheel, reduce each corner by 7 lbs, and get a 30% reduction in rotational mass from the new CV axle a on Ron's site.

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He's getting into the motor because he's afraid of the head lifting. I blew my headgasket with the same turbo at the same boost level and the overheating cracked the cylinder walls. When I come back to the fiesta platform down the road I'll have Adam build me a motor if I don't build one myself.

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Rocketst

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#13
He's getting into the motor because he's afraid of the head lifting. I blew my headgasket with the same turbo at the same boost level and the overheating cracked the cylinder walls. When I come back to the fiesta platform down the road I'll have Adam build me a motor if I don't build one myself.

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Wetwea I'm offering alternatives. I understand the struggle of making the motor capable of harnessing the power. That's why I offered him a lot of different responses.

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PhoenixM3

Senior Member
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Colorado Springs
#14
Wetwea I'm offering alternatives. I understand the struggle of making the motor capable of harnessing the power. That's why I offered him a lot of different responses.

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What you’ve offered is sound advice, but I’m also looking at methods to increase the reliability of running with 30lbs of boost. I don’t beat on the clutch, but enjoy lengthy pulls in 3rd or 4th gear. I’d like to know what the top speed of the car is, but worry about over-stressing the motor At elevated boost levels.
 


Rocketst

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#15
What you’ve offered is sound advice, but I’m also looking at methods to increase the reliability of running with 30lbs of boost. I don’t beat on the clutch, but enjoy lengthy pulls in 3rd or 4th gear. I’d like to know what the top speed of the car is, but worry about over-stressing the motor At elevated boost levels.
Is this car your daily?

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Rocketst

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#18
I still recommend a mls head gasket and the arp head bolts the op was gonna get anyway. Either way the head should come off to ensure the engine stays together. Without an mls head gasket the chance for a hole developing in the stock head gasket is just too high. I also recommend liners at high compression ratios and high stress applications because of the increased pressure in the cylinders and the very small distance between the cylinder and the water jacket. These don't have to be done by mountune for anyone whose unfamiliar. You can take a block to a machine shop and they'll do all the work for you. But all of these things take time and money. Without all of them the build will be less reliable. With some of them you can get by. But you also run into an issue with the pistons so, why wouldnt you just get a blown motor build it on your own time and when the money comes and when you blow your stock motor, you've got the replacement that won't blow. Just my 2 cents.

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Rocketst

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#20
Well like I said, my recommendation is, build that new block full retard capable. Then when it's done you don't have to worry about it. You can use the stock rods and crank. Sleeve the block and close the deck, I personally like moutunes oil baffle system because I don't have to worry about oil starvation and it's fairly cheap. Then upgrade the pistons. With this, you can even go plus rated and increase displacement if you get the sleeves done. Then port and polish the heads and get a cam. I mean.... That's the route I went and I've had no issues other than mountune installing the wrong bolt in my exhaust cam -.-. that was a bitch to find but they did pay me back for the work that needed to get done.

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