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AP 5000+ Racing Brakes Installed

XuperXero

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#1
I'll let the pics do the talking.







While doing the install, I also did some preventative measures on ball joint boot, outer tie rod end joint boot, and ABS sensor line (all got damaged by heat from brakes).




Hope you all enjoyed.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#2
Next up...how much was that tasty setup? Where did you find it at?

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LilPartyBox

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#6
This is the kit i am planning to get one day...pure sex! Did you have to use a spacer to clear the wheels?
 


ron@whoosh

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#8
Quality parts cost money. AP are some of the best in the biz for brakes. I'd be all over these in a heartbeat if you could fit 15's over them.
thanks for that lol
I wasn't complaining about the price [driving]
They sure are sweet
 


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#10
Nice. 17"s the smallest they'll fit over? Or could you squeeze them into some 16s with the right backspacing?
 


M-Sport fan

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#11
This is the kit I am planning to get one day..
Same here (or one of their kits at least).

As far as brakes are concerned, IF I am going to change out the stockers at all (and not just cool them with ducting, and use much better pads), I believe in the credo "go BIG or go home" implicitly. But yes, the drawback is that one is then married to 17" wheels, it seems. [:(]

After some of the problems many have had with other aftermarket BBK companies', the sky high price of the AP products seems more than 'worth it'. ;)
 


Last edited:

alexrex20

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#12
Not sure how a 2700lb car needs brakes this big for this price, when the Wilwoods are 1/4 the price. But damn they do look sexy. I wonder how they balance the rears to the front.

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#13
Not sure how a 2700lb car needs brakes this big for this price, when the Wilwoods are 1/4 the price. But damn they do look sexy. I wonder how they balance the rears to the front.

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It's all about balance. The wilwood kits that i've seen are quite puny in comparison to the AP and Alcon kits. The calipers are not a monoblock, and the rotor construction seems much thinner as well. I'm sure for a drag car or one that doesn't see repeated track use, they may be adequate, but I've seen multiple wilwood OTS kits fail on cars, so for my money and what I do with my car, they aren't on the list of good parts.
 


alexrex20

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#15
It's all about balance. The wilwood kits that i've seen are quite puny in comparison to the AP and Alcon kits. The calipers are not a monoblock, and the rotor construction seems much thinner as well. I'm sure for a drag car or one that doesn't see repeated track use, they may be adequate, but I've seen multiple wilwood OTS kits fail on cars, so for my money and what I do with my car, they aren't on the list of good parts.
Balance? You mean balance like gigantic front brakes and stock rear brakes?

BTW those APs aren't monoblock either lolfail

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KKaWing

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#16
People need to realize surface area has nothing to do with brake force balance... Weight sure... But clamping force is the function of piston size / master cylinder.
 


RAAMaudio

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#17
I have had a lot of BBKs from WW, Brembo, AP, and many more. AP's are damn nice indeed but "lessor" brands can do the job when properly setup and used. No issues at all with 18k miles on my WW DIY 11.75 front, 11" rear, 6 and 4 piston setups I designed and put together to fit under 15" wheels, track and street use, hot and cold weather. I am very hard on brakes on track but also know how to take care of cooling, pad selection and all the rest that goes into making them work and last.

I love AP brakes absolutely but I had to make due with what I could make fit my needs, WW does the job perfectly fine.

Any brake brand can be used improperly from those that put the system together to those that put them on the car, drive them, maintain them.....

I have had problems with most brands caused by driving beyond what they can deal with so had to upgrade them as things progressed, learning curve as my cars are never built like others and seldom can I find off the self solutions so have to work it out as I learned from experience in each situation.

------------

Consider this:
Brake disk diameter, piston size, pad coverage, air flow, cooling, tire width and grip, driver style and more....big issue, how heavy are the wheels and tires and exactly how far out from center is the mass located, all that has a huge impact on brake effectiveness, heat induced and bled off, putting a large diameter rotor under taller wheels is not always the best answer, extreme example, look at F1 wheels and brakes;)
 


alexrex20

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#18
People need to realize surface area has nothing to do with brake force balance... Weight sure... But clamping force is the function of piston size / master cylinder.
Irrelevant. Nobody ever said anything about surface area. It's all about diameter.

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M-Sport fan

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#19
I have had a lot of BBKs from WW, Brembo, AP, and many more. AP's are damn nice indeed but "lessor" brands can do the job when properly setup and used. No issues at all with 18k miles on my WW DIY 11.75 front, 11" rear, 6 and 4 piston setups I designed and put together to fit under 15" wheels, track and street use, hot and cold weather. I am very hard on brakes on track but also know how to take care of cooling, pad selection and all the rest that goes into making them work and last.

I love AP brakes absolutely but I had to make due with what I could make fit my needs, WW does the job perfectly fine.

Any brake brand can be used improperly from those that put the system together to those that put them on the car, drive them, maintain them.....

I have had problems with most brands caused by driving beyond what they can deal with so had to upgrade them as things progressed, learning curve as my cars are never built like others and seldom can I find off the self solutions so have to work it out as I learned from experience in each situation.

------------

Consider this:
Brake disk diameter, piston size, pad coverage, air flow, cooling, tire width and grip, driver style and more....big issue, how heavy are the wheels and tires and exactly how far out from center is the mass located, all that has a huge impact on brake effectiveness, heat induced and bled off, putting a large diameter rotor under taller wheels is not always the best answer, extreme example, look at F1 wheels and brakes;)
F1 might not be the best example since EVERYTHING is less than featherweight on those rocket sleds which can turn on a button, and they run VERY exotic brake materials with MAXIMAL cooling ducting/features (as well as their KERS systems also might pull some heat away from the brake components, but I'm not sure?? [dunno]), so brake sizes which fit inside a 15" F1 wheel are more than 'effective' for their purposes.

That being said, of course, as you have factually discovered for yourself, a setup which will fit inside 15" wheels for OUR cars can be made to work.
But with the problems many have had (besides yourself) with WW, and Stop Tech <-(with their basic fitment for our car almost impossible) on this forum, you cannot blame those of us who are a little hesitant to invest in the Wilwoods, when that could be put towards the almost trouble free (yes, of course IF properly; setup/maintained/used) AP Racing BBKs.
 


M-Sport fan

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#20
People need to realize surface area has nothing to do with brake force balance... Weight sure... But clamping force is the function of piston size / master cylinder.
Also, I seriously doubt that the rear brakes do much of the speed scrubbing on this platform.
Between the extreme front weight bias, any of the already light rear weight transferring onto the front wheels during braking, and the fact that Ford chose to put SOLID, non-vented rotors on the rear (despite their constant use in the various ESC/TC paradigms/scenarios) seems to support this observation.
 


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