Anti gravity battery discussion.

[WannabeST]

If it was oem battery weight then yes I think it would possibly make a noticeable difference finding a lower mounting point but yea 3lbs I'm not sure would make a noticeable difference( could drop 3 lbs in the am after a big dinner the night before lol).

Take some laxative pills before a track day and call it even lol

 

[WannabeST]

Updating this thread for anyone who may be interested in these batteries. Mine has been in the car for roughly one year now ( Don't remember exact install date). I finally put a bracket to tie down the battery around a month ago. But I still have had zero issues with the battery.
At one of my previous track days my belt ripped off and I was still able to get my car to the pits, leave the accessories on (engine off) for 15-20 mins, and still drive 10 minutes up the road to the auto parts store. So I think the battery should be good enough for roughly 15-30 minutes of driving should your alternator die for any reason. I don't think I've ever run a car on just battery without alternator before. So I have no idea how that compares to a regular size battery.

 

[Peterson]

I’d like to chime in here, as I’m having massive issues with my Antigravity Batteries. Yes. Two of them.

Here’s the rundown:

Car Setup
2016 Ford Fiesta ST
Ethanol Tuned (takes slightly longer to crank engine on cold start)
Tuned with Cobb Access port (I mention because perhaps I can pull logs from it about voltage or charge duty cycles)
Daily Driver duties and AutoX car
111000 miles

Battery Charger used for both batteries
CTEK 12V Lithium US Smart Charger 4.3A - Recommended from Antigravity


Battery Setup
ATX-20

• Old battery - I still have it sitting on a shelf in my garage. Last summer I drove cross country and back from New Jersey to Oregon. After HOURS of driving, I would shut the car off to fuel up and it wouldn't turn back on. When I'd led the car cool off for an hour, the battery would come back online, or I would jump start it with a NOCO BOOST PLUS GB40 and get back on the road for another multiple hours drive.
• When I reached out about this, I was told that it was probably overheating and the restart function was protecting the battery. I was recommended to get the ATX-20-HD, as it doesn't have the restart feature but is more robust.
• I replaced the battery and Melee battery box for the new form factor

ATX-20-HD

• I bought the ATX-20-HD and it was working flawlessly from August last year until about June of this year.
• Once again, this summer has been 90+ degrees and I thought that possibly the battery was getting too hot.
• I installed the Antigravity Bluetooth Battery Tracker PLUS and saw that the battery wasn't charging whilst in the car.
• Replaced the alternator in July at 110500 miles with a new OEM Ford part. Voltage tests out to 14.6 output on alternator
• Replaced the Battery Control Module in August with a new OEM Ford part.
• The battery will intermittently idle charge now, but not enough voltage for the car to not drain it till the car turns off whilst driving.

I have to charge the battery every night in my garage to get to work 17 highway miles away. On the drive, I can watch the battery monitor app and see the battery go from 99% all the way down to 76% or so. Once I go to work, I bring the CTEK charger with me and I have to pull the battery out of the car to charge it, or I won't be able to get home. Once the capacity hits around 64%, the voltage will usually slowly drop down to 12.5 volts or less and then the car will turn off while I'm driving it. If this occurs, I can wait a few minutes, and all power will come back on by itself, but the battery will read 45% or so. I may make it home, I may not. If not, I can jump the car with the NOCO box and let it sit for a few minutes. Once again, I may get home, I may not. Once home, I put the battery on the Charger again, where it shows no issues when it charges overnight.

The bluetooth battery tracker has been great to at least try and see what's been going on. I have also attached two screenshots from my phone with the results of the Cranking Test and the Charging Test. The only outstanding thing to me is the Diode Ripple Voltage is at 4mV. I am not sure if that is a problem or not. The battery log attached has a lot of information that may be useful as well.

 

[Capri to ST]

I’d like to chime in here, as I’m having massive issues with my Antigravity Batteries. Yes. Two of them.

Here’s the rundown:

Car Setup
2016 Ford Fiesta ST
Ethanol Tuned (takes slightly longer to crank engine on cold start)
Tuned with Cobb Access port (I mention because perhaps I can pull logs from it about voltage or charge duty cycles)
Daily Driver duties and AutoX car
111000 miles

Battery Charger used for both batteries
CTEK 12V Lithium US Smart Charger 4.3A - Recommended from Antigravity


Battery Setup
ATX-20

• Old battery - I still have it sitting on a shelf in my garage. Last summer I drove cross country and back from New Jersey to Oregon. After HOURS of driving, I would shut the car off to fuel up and it wouldn't turn back on. When I'd led the car cool off for an hour, the battery would come back online, or I would jump start it with a NOCO BOOST PLUS GB40 and get back on the road for another multiple hours drive.
• When I reached out about this, I was told that it was probably overheating and the restart function was protecting the battery. I was recommended to get the ATX-20-HD, as it doesn't have the restart feature but is more robust.
• I replaced the battery and Melee battery box for the new form factor

ATX-20-HD

• I bought the ATX-20-HD and it was working flawlessly from August last year until about June of this year.
• Once again, this summer has been 90+ degrees and I thought that possibly the battery was getting too hot.
• I installed the Antigravity Bluetooth Battery Tracker PLUS and saw that the battery wasn't charging whilst in the car.
• Replaced the alternator in July at 110500 miles with a new OEM Ford part. Voltage tests out to 14.6 output on alternator
• Replaced the Battery Control Module in August with a new OEM Ford part.
• The battery will intermittently idle charge now, but not enough voltage for the car to not drain it till the car turns off whilst driving.

I have to charge the battery every night in my garage to get to work 17 highway miles away. On the drive, I can watch the battery monitor app and see the battery go from 99% all the way down to 76% or so. Once I go to work, I bring the CTEK charger with me and I have to pull the battery out of the car to charge it, or I won't be able to get home. Once the capacity hits around 64%, the voltage will usually slowly drop down to 12.5 volts or less and then the car will turn off while I'm driving it. If this occurs, I can wait a few minutes, and all power will come back on by itself, but the battery will read 45% or so. I may make it home, I may not. If not, I can jump the car with the NOCO box and let it sit for a few minutes. Once again, I may get home, I may not. Once home, I put the battery on the Charger again, where it shows no issues when it charges overnight.

The bluetooth battery tracker has been great to at least try and see what's been going on. I have also attached two screenshots from my phone with the results of the Cranking Test and the Charging Test. The only outstanding thing to me is the Diode Ripple Voltage is at 4mV. I am not sure if that is a problem or not. The battery log attached has a lot of information that may be useful as well.

Sounds like a huge pain in the butt. Reading this confirms my choice to just get a regular battery and have more assurance that it will actually be able to start the car.
Good luck getting your issues straightened out.

 

[WannabeST]

D

I’d like to chime in here, as I’m having massive issues with my Antigravity Batteries. Yes. Two of them.

Here’s the rundown:

Car Setup
2016 Ford Fiesta ST
Ethanol Tuned (takes slightly longer to crank engine on cold start)
Tuned with Cobb Access port (I mention because perhaps I can pull logs from it about voltage or charge duty cycles)
Daily Driver duties and AutoX car
111000 miles

Battery Charger used for both batteries
CTEK 12V Lithium US Smart Charger 4.3A - Recommended from Antigravity


Battery Setup
ATX-20

• Old battery - I still have it sitting on a shelf in my garage. Last summer I drove cross country and back from New Jersey to Oregon. After HOURS of driving, I would shut the car off to fuel up and it wouldn't turn back on. When I'd led the car cool off for an hour, the battery would come back online, or I would jump start it with a NOCO BOOST PLUS GB40 and get back on the road for another multiple hours drive.
• When I reached out about this, I was told that it was probably overheating and the restart function was protecting the battery. I was recommended to get the ATX-20-HD, as it doesn't have the restart feature but is more robust.
• I replaced the battery and Melee battery box for the new form factor

ATX-20-HD

• I bought the ATX-20-HD and it was working flawlessly from August last year until about June of this year.
• Once again, this summer has been 90+ degrees and I thought that possibly the battery was getting too hot.
• I installed the Antigravity Bluetooth Battery Tracker PLUS and saw that the battery wasn't charging whilst in the car.
• Replaced the alternator in July at 110500 miles with a new OEM Ford part. Voltage tests out to 14.6 output on alternator
• Replaced the Battery Control Module in August with a new OEM Ford part.
• The battery will intermittently idle charge now, but not enough voltage for the car to not drain it till the car turns off whilst driving.

I have to charge the battery every night in my garage to get to work 17 highway miles away. On the drive, I can watch the battery monitor app and see the battery go from 99% all the way down to 76% or so. Once I go to work, I bring the CTEK charger with me and I have to pull the battery out of the car to charge it, or I won't be able to get home. Once the capacity hits around 64%, the voltage will usually slowly drop down to 12.5 volts or less and then the car will turn off while I'm driving it. If this occurs, I can wait a few minutes, and all power will come back on by itself, but the battery will read 45% or so. I may make it home, I may not. If not, I can jump the car with the NOCO box and let it sit for a few minutes. Once again, I may get home, I may not. Once home, I put the battery on the Charger again, where it shows no issues when it charges overnight.

The bluetooth battery tracker has been great to at least try and see what's been going on. I have also attached two screenshots from my phone with the results of the Cranking Test and the Charging Test. The only outstanding thing to me is the Diode Ripple Voltage is at 4mV. I am not sure if that is a problem or not. The battery log attached has a lot of information that may be useful as well.

That’s so much work. I wouldn’t keep mine if it was acting like that tbh.

 

[Peterson]

D

That’s so much work. I wouldn’t keep mine if it was acting like that tbh.

Yeah. That’s why I’m trying to find a solution 🫡

 

[Peterson]

Alright. I tried something new today. I got the cheapo Harbor Freight Bluetooth Code Reader:
ZURICH ZR-BT1 OBD2 BLUETOOTH

Then I followed these steps:

1. Reflashed ECU w/ same tune in AP
2. Cleared all codes in AP
3. Connected Scan tool
4. Found some hidden codes. Cleared all
5. RESET BATTERY MONITOR SYSTEM

The voltage is reading 14.4 now while I’m driving around, and I actually saw it charged the battery one percent!

After I replaced the negative terminal wire with the BMS sensor on it, I was holding the positive and negative wires together (sans battery) to try and completely drain any power left in the car. Obviously that didn’t work.
So I guess just replacing the BMS sensor on the Fiesta isn’t enough and there is a stored code or setting you have to reset in the ECU with an advanced scan tool.

I’ve drive. The car only like 20 miles so far, but I’ll report back after a day or two of driving around.

 

[Peterson]

Alright. I tried something new today. I got the cheapo Harbor Freight Bluetooth Code Reader:
ZURICH ZR-BT1 OBD2 BLUETOOTH

Then I followed these steps:

1. Reflashed ECU w/ same tune in AP
2. Cleared all codes in AP
3. Connected Scan tool
4. Found some hidden codes. Cleared all
5. RESET BATTERY MONITOR SYSTEM

The voltage is reading 14.4 now while I’m driving around, and I actually saw it charged the battery one percent!

After I replaced the negative terminal wire with the BMS sensor on it, I was holding the positive and negative wires together (sans battery) to try and completely drain any power left in the car. Obviously that didn’t work.
So I guess just replacing the BMS sensor on the Fiesta isn’t enough and there is a stored code or setting you have to reset in the ECU with an advanced scan tool.

I’ve drive. The car only like 20 miles so far, but I’ll report back after a day or two of driving around.

Okay. So we’re back to the car being unfixed. It just decided to not want to charge the battery again.

 

[WannabeST]

When you reached out to antigravity directly, did they only recommend another model? or did they offer a replacement at all?