I thought I'd make this a separate thread, since this affects other brands of spacer going between the intake manifold and head. I attached the same thing in my thread regarding the Peron aux fuel kit.
After you’ve installed the aux fuel spacer. If you can’t start all three of the mount bolts easily with your fingers, you've got a problem. I ran into this problem. You should alter the alternator bolt holes. Since you’ve now tilted the alternator forward and the front has now rotated down. The upper radius of the alternator bolt holes have moved down and the rear lower radius of the alternator bolt holes has moved up.
What I did to fix this was to use a file or die grinder with a cylindrical rotary file, I used a die grinder. Grind the upper radius of the fwd side alternator bolt holes, do all four holes. Grind the lower radius of the aft side of the alternator bolt holes. Don’t remove too much material. I took about a 1/16” off. I opened the lower side bolt hole a little bit too, just so you get a little bit of play to work with. My lower bolt was a little tight to hand thread, a little grease on the threads does wonders. After doing the hole modifications, it went in fine.
Some have stated that all three of the alternator mount bolts went in fine and some have said that they could not get the lower bolt to go in. Some have probably put force on the back of the ratchet head and cranked on it til the bolt threads caught and went in. Well if you forced it in, you may have F(*&ed up the threads in the mount and if you ever have to take the alternator out, the threads may come out as well and cause a different problem.
I do believe to do a proper fix, the whole alternator needs to move forward the same distance as the spacer, to keep the bolts inline with the mount holes. Problem is, now you have to design a mounting system for the lower bolt. The R&D and extra part to manufacture would increase the price of the kit.
The drawing shows you what I mean.
After you’ve installed the aux fuel spacer. If you can’t start all three of the mount bolts easily with your fingers, you've got a problem. I ran into this problem. You should alter the alternator bolt holes. Since you’ve now tilted the alternator forward and the front has now rotated down. The upper radius of the alternator bolt holes have moved down and the rear lower radius of the alternator bolt holes has moved up.
What I did to fix this was to use a file or die grinder with a cylindrical rotary file, I used a die grinder. Grind the upper radius of the fwd side alternator bolt holes, do all four holes. Grind the lower radius of the aft side of the alternator bolt holes. Don’t remove too much material. I took about a 1/16” off. I opened the lower side bolt hole a little bit too, just so you get a little bit of play to work with. My lower bolt was a little tight to hand thread, a little grease on the threads does wonders. After doing the hole modifications, it went in fine.
Some have stated that all three of the alternator mount bolts went in fine and some have said that they could not get the lower bolt to go in. Some have probably put force on the back of the ratchet head and cranked on it til the bolt threads caught and went in. Well if you forced it in, you may have F(*&ed up the threads in the mount and if you ever have to take the alternator out, the threads may come out as well and cause a different problem.
I do believe to do a proper fix, the whole alternator needs to move forward the same distance as the spacer, to keep the bolts inline with the mount holes. Problem is, now you have to design a mounting system for the lower bolt. The R&D and extra part to manufacture would increase the price of the kit.
The drawing shows you what I mean.
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