Accel Junky's Magnetic Build Thread

[Accel Junky]

^^^The stainless steel body dampers are probably a little less weight than the stockers, but still not as light as aluminum alloy bodied dampers (and generally more coin as well).

I'll probably end up going the BC or Meister route for partly that reason. Even though I know deep down they are the same Taiwan-built stuff being hocked all over ebay and rebranded left and right.

 

[Accel Junky]

Last night I ordered a Cobb RMM for $145 shipped from DHM with their Labor day discount.

Today I did a quick 10 min free weight reduction project after reading an online build journal: I removed the NVH ballasts on the front shock assemblies. I'm not hypersensitive regarding ride quality, so I anticipate not noticing a thing.

Saved 2.38lbs of unsprung weight. My scale screen seems a bit hard to read these days in my photos...not sure why.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^HOW are they supposed to work (what's the theory behind their NVH suppression function)?

I did not even realize these were on our cars.

 

[Strife]

Definitely on my to-do list. Trying to decide whether to go all out and do the hub pattern re-drill and get the lightest stuff for the money (6UL I guess?) or to stay with the stock lug pattern to reduce costs but give up a little weight savings.

I'm also curious which coilovers are lighter than stock. That's usually another place to save some weight while getting the handling and appearance improvements. Some of the cheaper options seem to have steel bodies but I know the typical Chinese/Taiwan remarketed coilovers are aluminum construction.

Right now I'm still trying to do the cheapest or free mods just to improve track reliability and performance without touching the engine.

I'm very interested in a lug pattern conversion myself, but I really dont want to do any redrilling. It'd be nice if the next gen. Fiesta was 4x100 and the parts would fit our cars. I really would like to fit a set of Enkei RPF1s to my car. Though they make RPF1s in our pattern, the offset isnt right.

 

[Noodles]

^^^HOW are they supposed to work (what's the theory behind their NVH suppression function)?

I did not even realize these were on our cars.

They are harmonic dampers. Adding weight would tune out certain frequency vibrations in the suspension.

Sent from the Canyon's Edge

 

[Noodles]

I'll probably end up going the BC or Meister route for partly that reason. Even though I know deep down they are the same Taiwan-built stuff being hocked all over ebay and rebranded left and right.

If you want decent quality and not the Titan rebrand stuff, check out the F2 coils.

Sent from the Canyon's Edge

 

[LILIKE16ST]

Definitely on my to-do list. Trying to decide whether to go all out and do the hub pattern re-drill and get the lightest stuff for the money (6UL I guess?) or to stay with the stock lug pattern to reduce costs but give up a little weight savings.

I'm also curious which coilovers are lighter than stock. That's usually another place to save some weight while getting the handling and appearance improvements. Some of the cheaper options seem to have steel bodies but I know the typical Chinese/Taiwan remarketed coilovers are aluminum construction.

Right now I'm still trying to do the cheapest or free mods just to improve track reliability and performance without touching the engine.

I thought about going with the conversion myself because those 11.4 lbs 15x8 6uls are very tempting but in the end I decided to save some money and the headache and just went with team dynamics pro race 1.2 in 15x8. I still saved a significant amount of weight and the car performs better in every way and IMO looks much better to boot and rides better due to a full 1 inch taller sidewalls. My speedo is kept virtually dead on because of the overall height. Being so close on my 195/55/15 bfg sport comp 2. According to tire rack these have 888 revs per mile vs 887 revs per mile for my stock equipped 205/40/17 Michelin pilot sport as3s. There is more variance than that between tires of the same size between the same brand let alone different brands so I would say that's basically dead on. I compared them side by side they looked pretty close. Not to mention my 195 are at least half inch wider overall than my stock 205....at least mounted on these 8 inch wide wheels they are. There are a lot of different quotes as far as the weight of the TD PR 1.2 in 15x8 but I weighed them myself they were 15.4 lbs. That is 7.1 each lighter than stock wheels without tires. If you don't care about the extra width you could go with the same wheel in15x7 and save mmore than 1.5 lbs per wheel over that. I wanted the extra width though. My 195 bfg fit perfectly on these wheels with a very slight stretch which is optimal. Performance is awesome compared to stock. My base car should be in the low 2600 range after I I stall my 11.5 lbs braille battery. I need to get this thing on a scale....

 

[LILIKE16ST]

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Those are the matte black 1.2s, correct?

 

[LILIKE16ST]

^^^Those are the matte black 1.2s, correct?

yessir. 15x8 et35

 

[Truth in Ruin]

Good job with your build. I see you're taking weight reduction pretty seriously. To take it a step further, you could cut all of the bolt tips that are longer than the need to be; you can also trim-off the extra slack in all of the wires, then reattach them. Can't imagine the process being a fun time, but it is always an option.

 

[Accel Junky]

I'm definitely considering those wheels and staying 4x108. What I'd like to do is get the Turbomacs for the street for the look I want and then get the lightest (and likely ugliest) wheels for the price for the track.

Good job with your build. I see you're taking weight reduction pretty seriously. To take it a step further, you could cut all of the bolt tips that are longer than the need to be; you can also trim-off the extra slack in all of the wires, then reattach them. Can't imagine the process being a fun time, but it is always an option.

I'm crazy but I'm not THAT crazy Good idea, though.

 

[Accel Junky]

Today I took off work for a few hours to meet a guy to sell my E46 M3, so I had a few hours to kill this morning and went ahead with the break in oil change. The car has 1850 miles on it now in just under 1 month of ownership so far.

Walmart only had the FL400S filter so I went ahead and bought a couple of those. The filter is not only longer but it also appears to be a hair narrower at least on the outside. The stock filter was installed ridiculously tight. My filter wrench just dented it so I used the screwdriver method to drain it and then to turn it with a hammer. I was finally able to use the wrench to get it hand-loose. What a pain in my a$$. The FL400S was not hard to get in. Just straight up and then orient it sideways. I don't think you could do it full of oil so I only had about 1/4 full or less in the filter.

4.3qts came out with a very thorough draining.

And bonus...this is what happens when you back up with a foldable chock still in place...

 

[Noodles]

Cool, good to know there is at least one other filter out there to use.

Also, the chock turned to chalk lol

Sent from the Canyon's Edge

 

[sereous]

When I first took my oil filter off it was the same way. Crazy tight! Super robot putting them on at the factory I guess..lol

 

[M-Sport fan]

Today I took off work for a few hours to meet a guy to sell my E46 M3, so I had a few hours to kill this morning and went ahead with the break in oil change. The car has 1850 miles on it now in just under 1 month of ownership so far.

Walmart only had the FL400S filter so I went ahead and bought a couple of those. The filter is not only longer but it also appears to be a hair narrower at least on the outside. The stock filter was installed ridiculously tight. My filter wrench just dented it so I used the screwdriver method to drain it and then to turn it with a hammer. I was finally able to use the wrench to get it hand-loose. What a pain in my a$$. The FL400S was not hard to get in. Just straight up and then orient it sideways. I don't think you could do it full of oil so I only had about 1/4 full or less in the filter.

4.3qts came out with a very thorough draining.

And bonus...this is what happens when you back up with a foldable chock still in place...

There is definitely enough room (length wise) for the 400S to fit?

Did you even consider the Mobil 1 EP over the regular stuff, or the Fram Ultra filter (one of the best out there, and totally belies Fram's shitty 'orange can of death' rep.)?
NOT that the Motorcrafts are not great filters in their own right anyway.

 

[Accel Junky]

There is definitely enough room (length wise) for the 400S to fit?

Did you even consider the Mobil 1 EP over the regular stuff, or the Fram Ultra filter (one of the best out there, and totally belies Fram's shitty 'orange can of death' rep.)?
NOT that the Motorcrafts are not great filters in their own right anyway.

Absolutely. Not a problem to fit it. I had read about other Fiesta ST and Focus ST owners using that same filter and Mountune even sells it on their website as an extended capacity filter upgrade: http://www.mountuneusa.com/Motorcraft-Oil-Filter-FL-400-S-Focus-ST-Fiesta-ST-p/fl-400s.htm

I didn't do much thinking on the oil. I'm usually just a regular Mobil 1 kind of guy. I feel like quality oil is quality oil, just use the tried and true with the right specs...EXCEPT in the case of certain known picky engines like the BMW M engines in which I wouldn't touch anything but the OE recommended oil unless you want to lose rod bearings.

As far as the other filters, I usually go OEM on my cars. Never really own anything long enough to justify independent thinking

 

[Accel Junky]

Tonight I put in the DDM Tuning HID kit. 6000k. I wouldn't say any light is thrown awry but the light output definitely decreased and I have some sporadic dark spots when going down a dark road. They look good from outside the car but I wonder if some LED bulbs would possibly be any different.

Minimal weight added from the ballasts:

Color difference is more significant in reality:

 

[Accel Junky]

Installed the Cobb RMM that I bought from DHM with their Labor Day discount.

It adds a tiny bit of weight but I can already tell a difference with how the car puts down power and seems to shimmy less under hard braking. More thoughts on it as I continue to test it. Initially there was quite a bit of vibration at idle but that went away within a few minutes of driving. I hand tightened the 2 mount bolts and then removed the jack from the trans before I torqued them to OEM 50lbft.

 

[Accel Junky]

Worked out a little mod money with the wife...so I'm considering choosing 1 of the following:

- Used AP V3 local to me for $350
- Swift Springs $315
- DHM Front crash bar $340

I was going to wait on the AP but the price is so good it might be worth it to go ahead and snag one.