Accel Junky's Magnetic Build Thread

[Accel Junky]

I like making these build journals to encourage my project goals. Perhaps you'll follow along?

Epic Test Drive:
I've owned a ton of vehicles (this one is #42) many of them absurdly quick but I've never had the opportunity to really get to know the limits of a car before I bought it. I was fortunate enough to travel to Germany for work this summer and like some of my past trips to Germany I made it a point to stop by the N?rburgring for some track time. It was not even close to reasonably priced (would've been a nice down payment on the car...) but this time I rented a FiST (3 door) from RSRNurburg and did a full track day. Long story short: I was absolutely blown away by how fun the car was and how with reasonably good driving fundamentals it could hold its own against other more powerful cars on the Ring. Needless to say, I was sold and once I returned home I concocted many justifications to sell my money-pit E46 M3 daily driver and pick up a Fiesta ST.

One of my "better" laps that day:

[video=youtube;9ylfqhQ--OY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ylfqhQ--OY[/video]

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My FiST Specs and the Purchase:
Magnetic exterior, Recaros, Moonroof (didn't want), Heated Seats, Nav (didn't need)

Paid: $4500 under MSRP ($2k off from dealer, $2k Ford rebates, $500 military rebate, no trade)
Conclusion: Wanted a stripper but the price was so good I decided to bite the bullet and take the loaded car. This was my top choice for color anyways.

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Initial goals for my Fiesta ST
Use: It will be daily driven ~85 miles per day. 3-4 track days per year split with my other toy. If I can find the time with my baby boy and get my wife to quit bitching, I would like to bump that to 1 track day per month as I just can't be satisfied with a few.
Goals for daily use: a little louder, a little lower, a little quicker, increase efficiency for commuting as a side effect of performance, some aesthetics, 2599 lbs
Goals for the track: achieve a track day weight of 2450 lbs full tank of fuel retaining most comfort items, try to achieve reliable engine cooling for full sessions, try to achieve reliable and adequate braking with the stock calipers/rotors, avoid being in the position to point by as much as possible, always be pointed by as much as possible

Mods I am thinking about for the street:
- DONE Muffler delete (a little more sound, stock is way way too quiet for my taste)
- DONE (changed to Maxton) Mountune lower front splitter (Triple R style)
- Wrap or plastidip the silver steering wheel trim, circular silver vent surrounds, and perhaps the silver door handles (I can't stand the cheapo silver and the steering wheel -- major touch point -- is super mopey looking)
- Upgrade shifter boot and perhaps nob to something nicer to touch/look at
- DONE (misc brands) Deadhook motorsports "stg2" performance package (drop in filter, 3" catless DP, intercooler upgrade, Cobb AP, tune)
- DONE Airbox cool air mod and/or snorkel
- DONE Clutch pedal spacer (easier rev matching on the street to keep the skill fresh)
- Clutch pedal stop (way too long for my taste)
- ABANDONED Hard wire clutch safety interlock and brake interlock for starting the car without getting in it (minimize wear and tear on the seat bolsters)
- MITIGATED Figure out how to eliminate that ridiculous double honk when you get out of the car with it running


Mods I am thinking about to achieve the track aspect:
- DONE Lightweight battery
- DONE Muffler delete (weight savings)
- ABANDONED 4x100 re-drilling
- DONE (changed to 17s) Light wheels (thinking 15x9 6ULs or maybe 16s to keep the sidewall flex down)
- DONE (changed to RS-RRs...for now) Track tires (thinking 225s if possible, R888 or similar)
- DONE Lightweight forged Al lugs
- DONE Rotor heat shield delete
- DONE Custom brake ducting
- DONE (completed with both Wilwood & StopTech) Wilwood front brake kit (for weight savings, braking)
- DONE (changed to StopTech standard street pads) Streetable pads (the PFC Carbon Metallic have worked well for me on the track and are $80/pair)
- ONGOING Remove rear seat, spare, possibly passenger seat before each track day
- ONGOING Misc weight reduction focusing on as much free stuff as possible (coilovers, symposer delete, hood insulation delete, rear wiper delete, fog light delete, engine cover, hatch privacy cover, delete user manual, sun visor delete, sunroof blockoff/delete
etc...)
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Most Current Photo:

Actual mods to date:
- Cobb AP V3
- Stratified Log-based re-tune
- Mountune FMIC, black
- Cobb RMM
- Cobb filter
- Mishimoto induction hose w/ 2016 adapter
- Depo catless downpipe w/ exhaust wrap
- Shorai 36ah LiFePo lightweight battery
- Motorcraft FL400S oil filter (larger)
- Swift Spec R springs
- Maxton front splitter
- Maxton rear wing extension
- 17x8 Rota Grid wheels
- ARP extended 2.5" wheel studs
- VMS lightweight forged aluminum lugs
- StopTech big brake kit front
- StopTech stainless brake lines front
- Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid
- VHT painted rear calipers
- DDM Slim Ballast HIDs
- Yorkim LED interior and license plate bulbs
- Sylvania 3157A amber front/rear turn signal LED bulbs
- FlashWolves LED reverse light bulbs
- DIY muffler delete
- DIY symposer delete
- DIY brake ducting
- DIY free intake mod
- DIY rear wiper delete
- DIY 3D printed gas pedal spacer
- DIY Misc weight reduction (ongoing)

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Weight Savings to Date:
Front:
Lightweight battery: -24.96 lbs (30.12lb OEM, 5.16lbs Shorai 36ah LiFePo)
Delete symposer box, clamps, rubber hose, plastic tubing full length: -0.89 lbs
Delete engine cover: -1.71 lbs
Delete hood insulation and plastic hardware: -1.62 lbs
Remove OEM RMM: -1.32 lbs
Add Cobb RMM: +1.73 lbs
Delete front grill horizontal plastic trim: -0.42 lbs
Delete OEM intercooler: -4.64 lbs
Add Mountune black intercooler: +7.50 lbs
Delete full washer reservoir (-8.00 lbs)
Delete 1 of 2 horns and dual horn bracket (-0.69 lbs)
Delete radiator shroud flaps (-0.15 lbs)
Add Depo downpipe with partial exhaust wrap +5.50 lbs
Delete OEM downpipe, heatshield, mount, hardware: -11.62 lbs
Remove OEM induction hose: -0.90 lbs
Add Mishimoto induction hose w/ 2016 adapter: +1.75 lbs

Mid:
Delete sun visors: -1.45 lbs

Rear:
Delete rear wiper, motor, hardware: -3.00 lbs
Muffler delete, add tips, piping: -15 lbs

Unsprung:
Front OEM shock NVH ballast delete: -2.38 lbs
Rota Grid 17x8 wheels: -12.32 lbs
Remove stock tires: - 76.00 lbs
Add Federal RS-RR tires: +88.00 lbs
StopTech Front BBK: -0.36 lbs
VMS Forged Al lug nuts: -0.77 lbs
Remove stock wheel studs: -1.56 lbs
Add ARP 2.5" wheel studs: +1.96 lbs

TOTAL: -63.33 lbs

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Starting Picture of the Car:

Baseline Weight:
Full tank of 93 octane, exactly as delivered by the dealer (manual in glove box, floor mats in, no personal items in car). Love having a set of corner scales!

With me in:

 

[Accel Junky]

Not even 200 miles and the very first mod: Transplanting my lightweight 36ah lithium battery from my E46 M3 into the FiST. Minus 25 lbs.

 

[Waterfan]

FYI - Sound Symposer Delete/Incremental Weight Reduction

 

[Accel Junky]

FYI - Sound Symposer Delete/Incremental Weight Reduction

Good call. I think this will definitely make sense once I do the muffler delete. I deleted the sound tube from my 2011 Mustang GT as well for minor savings.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I like making these build journals to encourage my project goals. Perhaps you'll follow along?

Epic Test Drive:
I've owned a ton of vehicles (this one is #42) many of them absurdly quick but I've never had the opportunity to really get to know the limits of a car before I bought it. I was fortunate enough to travel to Germany for work this summer and like some of my past trips to Germany I made it a point to stop by the N?rburgring for some track time. It was not even close to reasonably priced (would've been a nice down payment on the car...) but this time I rented a FiST (3 door) from RSRNurburg and did a full track day. Long story short: I was absolutely blown away by how fun the car was and how with reasonably good driving fundamentals it could hold its own against other more powerful cars on the Ring. Needless to say, I was sold and once I returned home I concocted many justifications to sell my money-pit E46 M3 daily driver and pick up a Fiesta ST.

One of my "better" laps that day:

[video=youtube;9ylfqhQ--OY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ylfqhQ--OY[/video]


My FiST Specs and the Purchase:
Magnetic exterior
Recaro package
Moonroof (didn't want...weight you know)
Heated Seats
Nav (didn't need)
Paid: $4500 under MSRP ($2k off from dealer, $2k Ford rebates, $500 military rebate, no trade)
Conclusion: Wanted a stripper but the price was so good I decided to bite the bullet and take the loaded car. This was my top choice for color anyways.


Initial goals for my Fiesta ST
Use: It will be daily driven ~85 miles per day. 3-4 track days per year split with my other toy. If I can find the time with my baby boy and get my wife to quit bitching, I would like to bump that to 1 track day per month as I just can't be satisfied with a few.
Goals for daily use: a little louder, a little lower, a little quicker, increase efficiency for commuting as a side effect of performance, some aesthetics
Goals for the track:achieve a track day weight of 2600lbs full tank of fuel retaining most comfort items, try to achieve reliable engine cooling for full sessions, try to achieve reliable and adequate braking with the stock calipers/rotors, avoid being in the position to point by as much as possible, always be pointed by as much as possible


Mods I am thinking about for the street:
- Muffler delete (a little more sound, stock is way way too quiet for my taste)
- Mountune lower front splitter (Triple R style)
- Wrap or plastidip the silver steering wheel trim, circular silver vent surrounds, and perhaps the silver door handles (I can't stand the cheapo silver and the steering wheel -- major touch point -- is super mopey looking)
- Upgrade shifter boot and perhaps nob to something nicer to touch/look at
- Deadhook motorsports "stg2" performance package (drop in filter, 3" catless DP, intercooler upgrade, Cobb AP, tune)
- Airbox cool air mod and/or snorkel
- Clutch pedal spacer (easier rev matching on the street to keep the skill fresh)
- Clutch pedal stop (way too long for my taste)
- Hard wire clutch safety interlock and brake interlock for starting the car without getting in it (minimize wear and tear on the seat bolsters)
- Figure out how to eliminate that ridiculous double honk when you get out of the car with it running


Mods I am thinking about to achieve the track aspect:
- (COMPLETE) Lightweight battery
- Muffler delete (weight savings)
- 4x100 re-drilling
- Light wheels (thinking 15x9 6ULs or maybe 16s to keep the sidewall flex down)
- Track tires (thinking 225s if possible, R888 or similar)
- Lightweight forged Al lugs
- Rotor heat shield delete
- Custom brake ducting
- Streetable pads (the PFC Carbon Metallic have worked well for me on the track and are $80/pair)
- Remove rear seat, spare, possibly passenger seat before each track day
- Misc weight reduction focusing on as much free stuff as possible (coilovers, symposer delete, hood insulation delete, rear wiper delete, fog light delete, engine cover, hatch privacy cover, delete user manual, sun visor delete, OS handle delete, sunroof blockoff/delete
etc...)


Starting Picture of the Car:

Baseline Weight:
Full tank of 93 octane, exactly as delivered by the dealer (manual in glove box, floor mats in, no personal items in car). Love having a set of corner scales!

With me in:

How much fuel is in the tank at that weight??

You're pretty hardcore if you have scales and corner weight your own (coil over) cars!

 

[StayPuft]

How cold does it get by you in winter? Lithium battery definitely interests me but my experience with motorcycles+ lithium battery+ cold weather and the extended cranking time due to warm up is holding me back.

 

[Accel Junky]

How much fuel is in the tank at that weight??

You're pretty hardcore if you have scales and corner weight your own (coil over) cars!

Full tank at this weight. Filled up and drove gingerly home 2 miles to weigh the car.

I got the scales primarily because I love doing weight reduction and I blow through cars like crazy so there is always a new project and new challenge. I'm not able to corner adjust yet but at some point I hope to dabble in that.

How cold does it get by you in winter? Lithium battery definitely interests me but my experience with motorcycles+ lithium battery+ cold weather and the extended cranking time due to warm up is holding me back.

 

[Accel Junky]

How much fuel is in the tank at that weight??

You're pretty hardcore if you have scales and corner weight your own (coil over) cars!

Full tank at this weight. Filled up and drove gingerly home 2 miles to weigh the car.

I got the scales primarily because I love doing weight reduction and I blow through cars like crazy so there is always a new project and new challenge. I'm not able to corner adjust yet but at some point I hope to dabble in that.

How cold does it get by you in winter? Lithium battery definitely interests me but my experience with motorcycles+ lithium battery+ cold weather and the extended cranking time due to warm up is holding me back.

Usually no more than a few weeks below freezing. Maybe 1-2 snow days annually. I have a garage and at work I park in an underground garage so cold temps have never been an issue. Been running lightweight batteries in my dailies for years now. BUT if you let the car sit for a week or more without a trickle charger, that'll usually kill them.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Have the lithium batteries and their chargers come down in price at all recently??

I remember them being like $650.00 to ~$900.00 for a powerful/small/lightweight one, BEFORE adding a charger onto that co$t, not too long ago.

 

[Accel Junky]

Have the lithium batteries and their chargers come down in price at all recently??

I remember them being like $650.00 to ~$900.00 for a powerful/small/lightweight one, BEFORE adding a charger onto that co$t, not too long ago.

My secret is that I use Shorai powersports lithium iron phosphate (LiFePo) batteries. Under $300 for the 36ah and it weighs 5lbs. Can easily go many years with it and transfer from car to car (which I've done).

 

[Accel Junky]

I just ordered the parts for the muffler delete. I called a reputable shop near my work and they quoted $50 if I bring my own tips. I'm $55 in for the tip and transition. So hopefully if it all works out this will cost $105 for better sound and 15-20lbs less weight.

I found a set of staggered tips I like and had to get a 2.25" to 2.5" transition piece as there were many more options for tips with 2.5" inlet. I wanted a double wall, staggered, and angle cut all together but couldn't find any that did it all for cheap.

Also, I really think the commercially available gas pedal spacers are a rip off at $50. So I asked my brother who 3D prints to make me one 30mm deep per the free Thingiverse schematic. Should be pennies for the plastic and maybe a few bucks for the hardware I'll need.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Did that site have any tips just like that, with a 3" inlet, and without the 'ricer burn', faux heat discoloration effect at the outlets??

I WANT the single wall, and a dual, staggered, slash cut tip for either a CP-E system, or the Tomei titanium system (IF it is ever released, and they don't offer an option for a tip like I described, in titanium, for it).

 

[Accel Junky]

Did that site have any tips just like that, with a 3" inlet, and without the 'ricer burn', faux heat discoloration effect at the outlets??

I WANT the single wall, and a dual, staggered, slash cut tip for either a CP-E system, or the Tomei titanium system (IF it is ever released, and they don't offer an option for a tip like I described, in titanium, for it).

I have a soft sport for the burn effect although I may black them out if I don't like the final look. I got this one on eBay but I'm confident I saw several options for what you are looking for. Sometimes in pairs for dual exhausts.

 

[bluestang]

Yeah, I was thinking I could get those spacers made out of aluminum for less. I have a great relationship with one of my machine shop vendors who does quite a bit of hot rod parts machining. So making it look great and then getting it black anodized is not hard for me to accomplish. I should really look into costing this and offering them for sale. Time to google for some CAD drawings

 

[Accel Junky]

Ordered some components for my fog light delete brake cooling:

 

[Accel Junky]

So far today I've accomplished my rear wiper delete:

Benefit of owning as many cars as I've had...lots of random fasteners and parts accumulated. In my collection of grommets/plugs found a little black rubber plug with a wide cap and a narrower ribbed neck and it snugly fit into the stock wiper grommet. Sticks out a little but I think for now this is a decent solution.

Weight savings is exactly 3.00 lbs including the motor/arm/clips/hardware.

 

[Accel Junky]

Next up today: Symposer deleted and a couple of weight reduction mods (deleted engine cover and hood insulation).

Symposer box, clamps, rubber hose, plastic tubing full length: -0.89 lbs
Engine cover: -1.71 lbs
Hood insulation and plastic hardware: -1.62 lbs

 

[M-Sport fan]

Did you plug the opening in the firewall where the symposer tube goes into the cabin?

Also; has anyone used the tube, or even the firewall opening for gauge wires/capillary tubes yet, like some were suggesting?

 

[Accel Junky]

Did you plug the opening in the firewall where the symposer tube goes into the cabin?

Also; has anyone used the tube, or even the firewall opening for gauge wires/capillary tubes yet, like some were suggesting?

Frankly the tube was so damn hard to get out of the firewall loom/grommet that I just kind of mashed the electrical tape back around the loom and I think it is pretty decently sealed up. A drive revealed an extremely quiet cabin. Frankly I miss the sound already but once I do the muffler delete next week I think it'll turn out to be for the best. I got the tips today so once I get the adapter on Monday I'll be able to get the muffler cut out and these items welded in.

The tube would probably work well for routing wires and such into the cabin. I would trim off near to the loom at the firewall on both sides in that case.

 

[Accel Junky]

Muffler delete is done. Sound is barely louder inside the car. Behind the car I think it sounds good and not loud at all. All-in-all the primary gain was the weight reduction. $105 all-in.

I'm not sure how I feel about the tips. They are pretty huge. Might need to get them moved further in and closer to the bumper cutout or try to find some tips with smaller outlets.

[video=youtube;_Z6kkPi-lF0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Z6kkPi-lF0[/video]