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2860 install

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#1
So this week I am going to be installing the mountune radiator, 2860 gen 2 with the airtec manifold, depo catless dp, and peron 4 port aux. Ive been googling looking for some pointers or any useful info since I've never done a turbo install. I have also searched the forum and haven't seen any kind of write up or anything other that stuff that makes me paranoid about some bolts coming loose. So I'm looking for any helpful hints or things to help me do this process since I'm doing it by myself. Also I am going to list the parts I have and if anyone sees that I'm missing something that would be cool to let me know. So for the turbo I have the atp kit, bov, wastegate, manifold, manifold gasket, and fire ring. Pretty sure that's all I need for that. Anyways if you feel like chiming in and helping/flaming me cool.
 


Se7eN

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#2
#1 make sure to get longer bolts for the back bolts of the manifold to the Vband Adapter and use locking nuts on the other end to prevent it from ever backing out.

#2 take out the old turbo from the top with manifold attach and work on it out side of the car to attach the new turbo and adapter and all that.

#3 you might have to take the 3 bolts from the passenger motor mount that bolt to the chassis and the RMM bolts out to move the engine foward a bit for the turbo to fit back from the top as it is larger than the stock turbo.

#4 if you still have your stock heat shields take your time and curse as hard as you can at Ford for they will be a pain to take out.

#5 on the ATP Turbo website they actually have a good PDF instructions for installation. Of course they did it all out of the vehicle and make it sound peaches and cream.

#6 make sure that your turbo has all it's bolts tightened down as they should be in the DP adapter, make sure that preload is set in the wastegate and make sure to connect the Boost solenoid correctly.

#7 I forgot to add this before, the studs on the head for the manifold will back out with the nut, use a press to hold in place and take the nut out or do it by hand CAREFULLY and then put the studs back in the head

Lastly enjoy it, it's gonna be fun once it's tuned.

PS i did not install the Port myself, but there are instructions in the Stratified page that you can follow for the Peron kit as well.
 


OP
SpiceyorangeST
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Thread Starter #4
Awesome. I will prob ask you questions about a few of those points.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#5
Did you buy the next size up Belt? The Alt. Gets pushed out further and the pulleys will start to eat the Belt....ask me how i know. Make sure you Tq. The exhaust manifold bolts correctly and to spec.....ask me how I know. Also recheck them in 1000 miles to ensure they didn't back out. Who is doing your Tuning? Good luck!

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OP
SpiceyorangeST
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Thread Starter #6
Did you buy the next size up Belt? The Alt. Gets pushed out further and the pulleys will start to eat the Belt....ask me how i know. Make sure you Tq. The exhaust manifold bolts correctly and to spec.....ask me how I know. Also recheck them in 1000 miles to ensure they didn't back out. Who is doing your Tuning? Good luck!

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
I did actually read about the belt, so I have that. I do need to find the info about torque specs for all the bolts though. I assume I can re use the stock manifold bolts for the new one? I cant remember if it came with new hardware.
 


Se7eN

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#7
Did you buy the next size up Belt? The Alt. Gets pushed out further and the pulleys will start to eat the Belt....ask me how i know. Make sure you Tq. The exhaust manifold bolts correctly and to spec.....ask me how I know. Also recheck them in 1000 miles to ensure they didn't back out. Who is doing your Tuning? Good luck!

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
I believe Slopoke had a write up for the port with the exact Belt part number
 


TDavis

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#10
The oil return isn't fun to attach to the block once its bolted to the turbo. I had to have my friend hold the turbo attached to the manifold away from the block while I guided the oil return into the block. Otherwise its a PAIN in the ASS to get in otherwise.

I still need to do the lock nut thing on the v-band adapter because one of my bolts have came lose twice. It lasts a good while in between tightenings though lol
 


TyphoonFiST

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#11
The oil return isn't fun to attach to the block once its bolted to the turbo. I had to have my friend hold the turbo attached to the manifold away from the block while I guided the oil return into the block. Otherwise its a PAIN in the ASS to get in otherwise.

I still need to do the lock nut thing on the v-band adapter because one of my bolts have came lose twice. It lasts a good while in between tightenings though lol
Guess what I am doing today!

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Se7eN

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#12
I still need to do the lock nut thing on the v-band adapter because one of my bolts have came lose twice. It lasts a good while in between tightenings though lol
Last time I re-installed the turbo with the new 2860, I already had the locking nuts on the previous set up so I installed it just like that back in April. It's August and the car has seen nothing but torture and yet they still hold strong. (did in fact tighten the V-band itself at least 3 times)
 


OP
SpiceyorangeST
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Thread Starter #16
So I'm finally getting around to doing this install. What have people done with keeping these 12 point bolts from backing out? Looks like they have locking washers on them I can't believe some just fall out. 20210409_195957.jpg
I'd rather take care of it now since I don't think I could re tighten anything when it's on the car.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#17
So I'm finally getting around to doing this install. What have people done with keeping these 12 point bolts from backing out? Looks like they have locking washers on them I can't believe some just fall out. View attachment 39547
I'd rather take care of it now since I don't think I could re tighten anything when it's on the car.
Mine was the same way....haven't had an issue with the bolts backing out. It's been in 30k and I check them every oil change with my Boroscope.

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slopoke

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#19
IIRC, Mountune has a bolt locking kit, because they had an issue with their turbine flange bolts backing out. Me, since I've been dealing with aviation safety wire for the last 40 years, I'd drill the bolts and safety wire them. I had a 2860 on mine and I just made sure the bolts were tight prior to installing it.
 


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