Rust Proofing

[timboslice]

This will probably only apply to Canadians and those in the rust belt but is anyone planning on applying any rust treatments to their FiST?

I'm coming from a first gen Mazda3 that is plagued by rust (quarter panels, wheel wells, b pillars, pretty much anywhere there is a stone chip). So I'm little sensitive to the issue (and the bullshittery of manufacturers to stand behind their rust warranties).

Consumer Reports says that they don't recommend spending the money and that OEM protection on modern cars is enough. From first hand experience, I know that it is not true and that it is highly subjective depending on where you live. Roads here are covered in salt from December-April.

Other than a regular underbody rinse in the winter, are there any other effective techniques to help keep our cars protected?

 

[NorthernProducer]

My experience and practice while living in the MidWest with salt covered roads for about the same period you "enjoy", has changed over the years. Cars of the '50's, 60's and 70's certainly benefited from rustproofing (not just undercoating). After that, the auto manufacturers (US and NOT European or Asian models) started to address the rusting issue by using more coated metals in rust prone areas. They also engineered panels to self-flush and dry with strategically placed weep holes and channels to direct water and air through those rust prone areas. Here is where rust proofing can be a gamble...certain methods used by rustproofers sealed off and blocked those weep holes and channels and actually exasperated the problem...often collecting and holding all that nasty debris in those panels. The rustproof materials also add noticeable weight to the car/truck, especially if over-applied. Some manufacturers even stipulated in their rust-out warranties that aftermarket rustproofing will void that aspect of the warranty. Frankly, I stopped rustproofing in the 90's and while living in the Cleveland, Ohio area never experienced a rust issue on my US or Swedish made cars. Since moving to the South, it has become a non-issue for me, but I empathize with you. I hope my comments help.

 

[FineTooned]

Speaking of rust, the ST is the first new car I've ever owned that had rusty parts from the get go. The half shafts are rust colored and some of the steering nuckle hardware appears to be rusty too. And I'm in California. A place not known for rusting cars. Why? Cost cutting?

 

[Sekred]

Speaking of rust, the ST is the first new car I've ever owned that had rusty parts from the get go. The half shafts are rust colored and some of the steering nuckle hardware appears to be rusty too. And I'm in California. A place not known for rusting cars. Why? Cost cutting?

This is one of the few things that I am disappointed with, it just looks slack.

 

[rodmoe]

If I recall this is a gobal car so I think I saw a "Made In Poland" sticker on the drive shafts/ half axles when I have it apart. My thought was they pre made these and tossed them in a semi close crate to ship to Mexico or Germany for assembly and the got exposed to the sea air and took a coat of surface rust.. this seems to be the norm now a days as my 2011 Mustang had a rusty rear axel too and the first time I opened the hood on my 2006 Brand new Ski Doo Snaw maching the aluminum engine bloch was white poweder.. I pointed that out and the dealer shrugged and said "thats how they come" didn't hurt anything really but it looked like heck...

 

[timboslice]

My experience and practice while living in the MidWest with salt covered roads for about the same period you "enjoy", has changed over the years. Cars of the '50's, 60's and 70's certainly benefited from rustproofing (not just undercoating). After that, the auto manufacturers (US and NOT European or Asian models) started to address the rusting issue by using more coated metals in rust prone areas. They also engineered panels to self-flush and dry with strategically placed weep holes and channels to direct water and air through those rust prone areas. Here is where rust proofing can be a gamble...certain methods used by rustproofers sealed off and blocked those weep holes and channels and actually exasperated the problem...often collecting and holding all that nasty debris in those panels. The rustproof materials also add noticeable weight to the car/truck, especially if over-applied. Some manufacturers even stipulated in their rust-out warranties that aftermarket rustproofing will void that aspect of the warranty. Frankly, I stopped rustproofing in the 90's and while living in the Cleveland, Ohio area never experienced a rust issue on my US or Swedish made cars. Since moving to the South, it has become a non-issue for me, but I empathize with you. I hope my comments help.

Yeah, from my understanding is that you need to be careful with how you apply the rust proofing solution. I've heard it should be a 2 step process: 1) clean undercarriage, 2) apply rust proof. Any dirt or road grit will negate the efficacy of the rust proofing application.

I was told that most rust is either inherent to the vehicle's design, or the quality of the material used to make the part. The metal finishing process has the largest impact to the amount the vehicle will rust (not paint, primer, or any coating). Paint bubbles, surface rust and perforated rust are all caused by poor finishing processes. It's actually interesting to see all of the Ford/Mazda platform sharing vehicles, of the same era, that have the sames rust issues (Mazda3/Mondeo and Excape/Tribute). The earlier B-Series/Rangers collaboration had far fewer rust problems.

Probably gonna save my money and go without.

 

[Swoopdown]

Speaking of rust, the ST is the first new car I've ever owned that had rusty parts from the get go. The half shafts are rust colored and some of the steering nuckle hardware appears to be rusty too. And I'm in California. A place not known for rusting cars. Why? Cost cutting?

I live in Australia with UK spec Fist
Was underneath the car the other day. Took a few pictures and noticed some discloured part. Think its the drive shafts but not 100%

Wonder if this is similar to what you said

 

[SAR-73]

I won a free oil spray at a time attack event. So I will do that. Otherwise, I spray the electrical grounds, chassis pieces and other hardware with fluid film when I am working on the car. I've never had a problem with the bodies rotting, just all the other stuff.