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2017 Ambient Lighting No Longer Above Glove Box?!
- Thread starter Butterybunz
- Start date
TDavis. I have tried to reply to this thread to be helpful a few times with no reply. So I'll try one last time (1) you can route that harness the correct way with a lot less of a hassle then making a new harness. (2) look at manufacture date on the harness you ordered if it has a manufacture date on it of 7/2011 there is an issue with the footwell led lights. I had the same thing happen with it hooked up properly with no splices or additions. I returned it to ford and received a new one with no issues. I installed the new harness and all was well. Hope this helps. Again if you or anyone else wants any info or pictures on how to route it the factory do not hesitate to reply.
The new harness is prewired with the LEDs and it will be obvious which one of them snaps onto the end of the light bar. That's the only one I used and just zip tied the rest of the harness out of the way under the dash. Sure, the other LEDs come on, but they are harmlessly stuffed up under the dash. I did not attempt to cut up the new harness at all, which might destroy it. As long as the one LED I needed for the light bar was working, I was good to go.
Put in the new harness this afternoon after work. It works how it should now! I guess I got a faulty harness to begin with. Funny thing is that the build date on the good harness is 7/2011 and the build date on the bad one was 6/2010. Lights work how they should now and I'm going to route the extra 2 LEDs from the harness to be inside the glovebox so that I have lights for the glovebox. There is a hole and slit on the left side of the glovebox so that gives perfect room to route the wires through there.
The light bar is done. I just mocked up the 2 extra LEDs in their spots that I will soon mount them too. You cannot see the LEDs when looking into the glovebox normally, as seen in the blue ambient picture. The pink ambient picture is where you would have to duck down far in order to try to see them. So they're hidden from normal view.
The light bar is done. I just mocked up the 2 extra LEDs in their spots that I will soon mount them too. You cannot see the LEDs when looking into the glovebox normally, as seen in the blue ambient picture. The pink ambient picture is where you would have to duck down far in order to try to see them. So they're hidden from normal view.
I was looking to do some experimenting with this and when I tried to take out the side panel on the passenger side I couldn't decide if I just needed to pull harder on the panel to get it out or if I was missing a fastener somewhere. The only thing that was obvious to me was the plastic screw and pin thing. I stopped and thought I would ask here before having to figure out how to explain to my wife what I broke and why.
Am I missing something or do I just need to apply more brute force?
Am I missing something or do I just need to apply more brute force?
Get your fingers under the panel as close as you can to the front and rear clips and then work around if the whole thing does not just pop out. You want to pull as straight back as possible on each clip. Also, this is best done when the interior is not freezing cold if you live where you get cold winter weather. The likelihood of snapping off a clip will be way less if it is warm.
It is a straight drop in. There are a couple options you can do.
1 - factory type install where you have just the 3 lights. L & R Footwells, and above glove box.
2 - Add on. Splice the new harness into the old and gain 2 extra LED lights plus the glove box.
3 - Add on. Make a female to double male molex wire Y harness. Where you plug the female into the console harness and the male plugs into the 2 LED harnesses.
Pop out the plastic filler above the glove box, snap in the new light bar. There are 3 long tabs holding the filler piece in. Pull the glove box and you can reach them easily.
The wire harness plugs in the left and right footwell lights and the dash light bar. If you want to route the wire the same as the original then you are going to have to pull the center console.
Then plug in the harness where the old harness is. Passenger side console, behind the side cover. The plug is the middle one.
So to recap, you need:
BE8Z-13E701-A Light bar
BE8Z-14A411-A Wire Harness
I chose to make a y harness so I can use the extra LED for the glove box, plus I can return it to stock if needed.
1 - factory type install where you have just the 3 lights. L & R Footwells, and above glove box.
2 - Add on. Splice the new harness into the old and gain 2 extra LED lights plus the glove box.
3 - Add on. Make a female to double male molex wire Y harness. Where you plug the female into the console harness and the male plugs into the 2 LED harnesses.
Pop out the plastic filler above the glove box, snap in the new light bar. There are 3 long tabs holding the filler piece in. Pull the glove box and you can reach them easily.
The wire harness plugs in the left and right footwell lights and the dash light bar. If you want to route the wire the same as the original then you are going to have to pull the center console.
Then plug in the harness where the old harness is. Passenger side console, behind the side cover. The plug is the middle one.
So to recap, you need:
BE8Z-13E701-A Light bar
BE8Z-14A411-A Wire Harness
I chose to make a y harness so I can use the extra LED for the glove box, plus I can return it to stock if needed.
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
I can help with the pins and sockets. They are also available from mouser, part #'s 571-1-1419158-6-CT and 571-1393367-1-CT
My experimenting was to see if I could wire in a generic RGB LED strip and control it through the cars ambient lighting system. First I tried just wiring directly to the strip, which failed. As it turns out, the car uses common cathode to drive the RGB LEDs while what I had was common anode. So I went looking for common cathode RGB LED strips and they are really hard to find. When you do find them they are 2-3 times the cost of what you can pick up a common anode strip for, and you can find those things everywhere.
I did some looking to find a way to use a common anode strip from a common cathode driver. I did not find that, but I did find someone going the other way with it. The same principle should apply so I went to tinkercad to draw up a schematic that would be close to see if I was even on the right track.
The arduino in the image is running a sketch that just cycles through some colors. Tinkercad only had a common cathode RGB LED in the available parts so I simulated them both with the red green and blue LEDs. The simulation ran and the LEDs turned on and off as expected so it was time to breadboard it and take it to the car.
[video]https://youtu.be/81AGGOCzabo[/video]
My experimenting was to see if I could wire in a generic RGB LED strip and control it through the cars ambient lighting system. First I tried just wiring directly to the strip, which failed. As it turns out, the car uses common cathode to drive the RGB LEDs while what I had was common anode. So I went looking for common cathode RGB LED strips and they are really hard to find. When you do find them they are 2-3 times the cost of what you can pick up a common anode strip for, and you can find those things everywhere.
I did some looking to find a way to use a common anode strip from a common cathode driver. I did not find that, but I did find someone going the other way with it. The same principle should apply so I went to tinkercad to draw up a schematic that would be close to see if I was even on the right track.
The arduino in the image is running a sketch that just cycles through some colors. Tinkercad only had a common cathode RGB LED in the available parts so I simulated them both with the red green and blue LEDs. The simulation ran and the LEDs turned on and off as expected so it was time to breadboard it and take it to the car.
[video]https://youtu.be/81AGGOCzabo[/video]
I can help with the pins and sockets. They are also available from mouser, part #'s 571-1-1419158-6-CT and 571-1393367-1-CT
My experimenting was to see if I could wire in a generic RGB LED strip and control it through the cars ambient lighting system. First I tried just wiring directly to the strip, which failed. As it turns out, the car uses common cathode to drive the RGB LEDs while what I had was common anode. So I went looking for common cathode RGB LED strips and they are really hard to find. When you do find them they are 2-3 times the cost of what you can pick up a common anode strip for, and you can find those things everywhere.
I did some looking to find a way to use a common anode strip from a common cathode driver. I did not find that, but I did find someone going the other way with it. The same principle should apply so I went to tinkercad to draw up a schematic that would be close to see if I was even on the right track.
The arduino in the image is running a sketch that just cycles through some colors. Tinkercad only had a common cathode RGB LED in the available parts so I simulated them both with the red green and blue LEDs. The simulation ran and the LEDs turned on and off as expected so it was time to breadboard it and take it to the car.
[video]https://youtu.be/81AGGOCzabo[/video]
My experimenting was to see if I could wire in a generic RGB LED strip and control it through the cars ambient lighting system. First I tried just wiring directly to the strip, which failed. As it turns out, the car uses common cathode to drive the RGB LEDs while what I had was common anode. So I went looking for common cathode RGB LED strips and they are really hard to find. When you do find them they are 2-3 times the cost of what you can pick up a common anode strip for, and you can find those things everywhere.
I did some looking to find a way to use a common anode strip from a common cathode driver. I did not find that, but I did find someone going the other way with it. The same principle should apply so I went to tinkercad to draw up a schematic that would be close to see if I was even on the right track.
The arduino in the image is running a sketch that just cycles through some colors. Tinkercad only had a common cathode RGB LED in the available parts so I simulated them both with the red green and blue LEDs. The simulation ran and the LEDs turned on and off as expected so it was time to breadboard it and take it to the car.
[video]https://youtu.be/81AGGOCzabo[/video]
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
The arduino in the image was just to emulate the driver used in the car. All I did there was grab the example rgb sketch from the arduino site and pasted it into the simulation.
The next step is to wire it up nice, attach the mosfets to a heatsink (might not be necessary but its quick to do) and maybe put it all in a little enclosure. I plan to at least Y off the original (for the footwell light and dash light, maybe) and then have some type of connection out to the external RGBs.
I just think its cool that I can have more RGBs match the cars ambient light, not sure what I am going to do with them yet.
The next step is to wire it up nice, attach the mosfets to a heatsink (might not be necessary but its quick to do) and maybe put it all in a little enclosure. I plan to at least Y off the original (for the footwell light and dash light, maybe) and then have some type of connection out to the external RGBs.
I just think its cool that I can have more RGBs match the cars ambient light, not sure what I am going to do with them yet.
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