Contact = ipeterson@maperformance.com
Price = $40 shipped.
Like many of you here, I own a 2016 model and have had to cope with the limited options we have for an aftermarket intake. As far as I know, CP-E, Mishimoto and MAP are the only THREE intake kits that claim compatibility to our cars. I?ll be damned if I pay over $300 for such minimal gains. MAP is the only one under $300 but I?m not a fan of short ram, hot engine breathing cones on a stick. If I had ?14-?15 they?d be many more options, right? More importantly, I?d be able to take advantage of cheap used intakes as well! So what is a ?16 MY loser to do for an intake?
Enter the unadvertised MAP vacuum kit. This bit of hosery magic is included with their intakes. But unlike the greedy competition, MAP sells it separately!!! But would it work with another intake? Not being entirely certain I took the plunge. I live in the classifieds, checking it daily for ?giveways? and lo? and behold, a 2015 Mishimoto induction hose with Mountune drop-in for 60 bucks! And local! BOUGHT!
The MAP adapter arrives a few days later. I had watched the install video a few times and was aware of the bit of cutting that had to be done. Looked easy enough but since I wasn?t using their intake, I test fit the adapter to the Mishi before I started hacking things. There was an issue?The quick connect from the adapter wouldn?t fit over the Mish vacuum port. I pushed and pushed but no go. After some frustration, I counted to 10 and investigated. I disassembled the MAP connector and test fit the locking tab over the Mishi port. OK, it fits. I fit the MAP connector over the Mishi port without the locking tab as well, it also fit. So, WTF?
Turned out the Mishimoto vacuum port is pushed a little too deep into the silicon. This prevented the quick connect on the MAP adapter to fully seat.
I decided to take a blade to the Mishi silicon. If I had paid full price for the Mishi I might have hesitated, but since it was used I went to town. I cut it all the way back to the pinch clamp then pulled on the port to make sure it wasn?t loosened or compromised in any way.
Then reassembled the MAP connector and hoped for the best. Initially it fought. While it was close, the locking tab was an eyelash away from locking. So I squeezed the shit out of it and?.click. YES! I tugged and tugged on the MAP adapter to be sure it wasn?t gonna just pop loose. All good.
You can see in the background of the pic the two small rings of silicon cut from the intake. If you look through the connector you can see I cut right up against the clamp.
Crisis averted so I began to remove the vacuum connectors from the OEM accordion. Here is a wide a shot of the T-fitting that has to be cut.
I strongly suggest using a box cutter with a BRAND NEW BLADE. The OEM line is a HARD plastic. I started at it with whatever blade I had at the moment and it was a struggle. Slapped in a new blade and it was cake. I would even recommend heating the box cutter a lil to help get it started. It?s important because you don?t want to damage the T-fitting using tons of force with a dull blade!
You can slit it open just enough to pull it off the T-fitting connector.
Hose removed from T-fitting and ready for MAP love
The only real headache was removing the lower OEM vacuum connector from the lower IC pipe. I was shoulder deep into the engine bay and had to reach around the back side of it to release the green locking tab. Installing the MAP adapter is straight forward. The shorter end goes the intake, the side WITHOUT a quick connector goes to the T-fitting and the longer end reaches all the way down to the lower IC pipe.
And here is the completed install. The short end of the MAP adapter is a bit long so it loops up a bit but hasn?t rubbed on anything at all. 130 miles so far and NO CEL!!!! 90 miles of it hot dogging on the highway![[woot]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_woot.gif "Woot! [woot]")
Contact = ipeterson@maperformance.com
Price = $40 shipped.
Price = $40 shipped.
Like many of you here, I own a 2016 model and have had to cope with the limited options we have for an aftermarket intake. As far as I know, CP-E, Mishimoto and MAP are the only THREE intake kits that claim compatibility to our cars. I?ll be damned if I pay over $300 for such minimal gains. MAP is the only one under $300 but I?m not a fan of short ram, hot engine breathing cones on a stick. If I had ?14-?15 they?d be many more options, right? More importantly, I?d be able to take advantage of cheap used intakes as well! So what is a ?16 MY loser to do for an intake?
Enter the unadvertised MAP vacuum kit. This bit of hosery magic is included with their intakes. But unlike the greedy competition, MAP sells it separately!!! But would it work with another intake? Not being entirely certain I took the plunge. I live in the classifieds, checking it daily for ?giveways? and lo? and behold, a 2015 Mishimoto induction hose with Mountune drop-in for 60 bucks! And local! BOUGHT!
The MAP adapter arrives a few days later. I had watched the install video a few times and was aware of the bit of cutting that had to be done. Looked easy enough but since I wasn?t using their intake, I test fit the adapter to the Mishi before I started hacking things. There was an issue?The quick connect from the adapter wouldn?t fit over the Mish vacuum port. I pushed and pushed but no go. After some frustration, I counted to 10 and investigated. I disassembled the MAP connector and test fit the locking tab over the Mishi port. OK, it fits. I fit the MAP connector over the Mishi port without the locking tab as well, it also fit. So, WTF?
Turned out the Mishimoto vacuum port is pushed a little too deep into the silicon. This prevented the quick connect on the MAP adapter to fully seat.
I decided to take a blade to the Mishi silicon. If I had paid full price for the Mishi I might have hesitated, but since it was used I went to town. I cut it all the way back to the pinch clamp then pulled on the port to make sure it wasn?t loosened or compromised in any way.
Then reassembled the MAP connector and hoped for the best. Initially it fought. While it was close, the locking tab was an eyelash away from locking. So I squeezed the shit out of it and?.click. YES! I tugged and tugged on the MAP adapter to be sure it wasn?t gonna just pop loose. All good.
You can see in the background of the pic the two small rings of silicon cut from the intake. If you look through the connector you can see I cut right up against the clamp.
Crisis averted so I began to remove the vacuum connectors from the OEM accordion. Here is a wide a shot of the T-fitting that has to be cut.
I strongly suggest using a box cutter with a BRAND NEW BLADE. The OEM line is a HARD plastic. I started at it with whatever blade I had at the moment and it was a struggle. Slapped in a new blade and it was cake. I would even recommend heating the box cutter a lil to help get it started. It?s important because you don?t want to damage the T-fitting using tons of force with a dull blade!
You can slit it open just enough to pull it off the T-fitting connector.
Hose removed from T-fitting and ready for MAP love
The only real headache was removing the lower OEM vacuum connector from the lower IC pipe. I was shoulder deep into the engine bay and had to reach around the back side of it to release the green locking tab. Installing the MAP adapter is straight forward. The shorter end goes the intake, the side WITHOUT a quick connector goes to the T-fitting and the longer end reaches all the way down to the lower IC pipe.
And here is the completed install. The short end of the MAP adapter is a bit long so it loops up a bit but hasn?t rubbed on anything at all. 130 miles so far and NO CEL!!!! 90 miles of it hot dogging on the highway
Contact = ipeterson@maperformance.com
Price = $40 shipped.
![[thumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumb.gif "Thumbs Up [thumb]"){kind=icon}
![[dunno]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_dunno.gif "Dunno [dunno]"){kind=icon}
