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2016 fiesta st overheating
- Thread starter duramaxin14
- Start date
I'm debating whether to do a coolant system flush, and see if there's an air bubble that could possibly be causing my issues. The thing is, when I had the stock 50/50 setup it overheated. When I changed out the coolant and did a 75/25 mix it seemed to run much cooler, but I also used some Water Wetter which people say gunks up the system. I very well could just have a shoddy stock radiator. It's worth it to go better as a replacement, due to all the labor of taking the front clip off, the intercooler, etc.
I've not researched though where the thermometer is... if mine is broken I think I might end up with the same issue again. It might be worth it to use a whole new one when I replace the radiator. Since the ST's coolant system is under pressure, it should be self burping. When I originally filled it, I didn't use/couldn't find the bleeder plug, so I relied on jacking it up, letting it cool off, topping the resevoir, etc method.
I've not researched though where the thermometer is... if mine is broken I think I might end up with the same issue again. It might be worth it to use a whole new one when I replace the radiator. Since the ST's coolant system is under pressure, it should be self burping. When I originally filled it, I didn't use/couldn't find the bleeder plug, so I relied on jacking it up, letting it cool off, topping the resevoir, etc method.
You mean thermostat above. 
I have never seen a diagram/description of where it is on here, or what has to come off of the car to get to it, only complaints that it is the ROYALIST of PIA, and worse than taking the whole front end of the car off to change out the radiator.
IF I had to guess, that makes it seem that it is behind the water pump somewhere, and the whole timing belt/front cover must come off in order to access it a la Honduhs??![[dunno]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_dunno.gif "Dunno [dunno]")
I have never seen a diagram/description of where it is on here, or what has to come off of the car to get to it, only complaints that it is the ROYALIST of PIA, and worse than taking the whole front end of the car off to change out the radiator.
IF I had to guess, that makes it seem that it is behind the water pump somewhere, and the whole timing belt/front cover must come off in order to access it a la Honduhs??
I accidentally found a video on YouTube by paper racing or something like that. They did the mishimoto radiator and DHM crash bar and intercooler at the same time, along with a 160F thermostat. All of the parts you have to unscrew to get to the thermostat is ridiculous. Since mine wants to stay at 185F in the winter and spring, I'll bet it isn't broken.
Took this at 225 degrees, but I'm sitting here at almost 227F and it's still in the middle of normal...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
QUOTE=Alanbolt;241861]Bummer news about the "gauge"- pretty worthless. I'm still under warranty, so no Accessport. Ill order a B/T OBD gizmo and use a spare phone instead when I ever get my car back from Service.[/QUOTE]
Not sure why you think the gauge is worthless, it displays normal temps and temps rising. That is all a gauge can do. Are you having overheating problems?
Not sure why you think the gauge is worthless, it displays normal temps and temps rising. That is all a gauge can do. Are you having overheating problems?
Not sure why you think the gauge is worthless, it displays normal temps and temps rising. That is all a gauge can do. Are you having overheating problems?[/QUOTE]
The STs" "Gauge" is just another overheating light.
It indicates two conditions: Normal, and hot.
A gauge gives a graduated scale split into varying accuracies.
And yes, my car overheats in 100+ temperatures, its stock and its under warranty. And its still at the dealer. And they cant find any defects.
The STs" "Gauge" is just another overheating light.
It indicates two conditions: Normal, and hot.
A gauge gives a graduated scale split into varying accuracies.
And yes, my car overheats in 100+ temperatures, its stock and its under warranty. And its still at the dealer. And they cant find any defects.
The STs" "Gauge" is just another overheating light.
It indicates two conditions: Normal, and hot.
A gauge gives a graduated scale split into varying accuracies.
And yes, my car overheats in 100+ temperatures, its stock and its under warranty. And its still at the dealer. And they cant find any defects.[/QUOTE]
I'll take a wild stab at it.... radiator.
It indicates two conditions: Normal, and hot.
A gauge gives a graduated scale split into varying accuracies.
And yes, my car overheats in 100+ temperatures, its stock and its under warranty. And its still at the dealer. And they cant find any defects.[/QUOTE]
I'll take a wild stab at it.... radiator.
I'm beginning to think you are a troll. I put some visual evidence just to show that the gauge is worthless. The gauge doesn't change unless you are pretty much 95% the way to overheating. It doesn't give you much time to adapt.
I get that you aren't having an issue. If you don't have something constructive for this thread then perhaps you should move on.
To those not trolling, I'm going to try to do a full flush tomorrow and refill/bleed the system to see if air pockets are the cause. If no change, I'm going to buy the mountune radiator and see if I can get some increased performance with my large DHM intercooler sitting in front.
I get that you aren't having an issue. If you don't have something constructive for this thread then perhaps you should move on.
To those not trolling, I'm going to try to do a full flush tomorrow and refill/bleed the system to see if air pockets are the cause. If no change, I'm going to buy the mountune radiator and see if I can get some increased performance with my large DHM intercooler sitting in front.
Somebody went off their meds
Good luck with the flush. May the gods smile upon you!
I hope the dealer can figure mine out soon. The Fusion is great on gas but that internal combustion engine make embarrassing noises when floored.
Some people just love whatever it is they bought, married or voted for however terribly they perform.
I feel like I've been ripped off by FORD right now, hopefully this will change.
Good luck with the flush. May the gods smile upon you!
I hope the dealer can figure mine out soon. The Fusion is great on gas but that internal combustion engine make embarrassing noises when floored.
Some people just love whatever it is they bought, married or voted for however terribly they perform.
I feel like I've been ripped off by FORD right now, hopefully this will change.
I am beginning to think you have no clue what you are talking about. I follow this thread because I want to know if we have a problem on all of our cars. Perhaps you should move on until you understand indicators instead of declaring it worthless. I am sorry you have a problem. What I asked and you still will not answer is what more do you want the temp indicator to do? Seems like all it takes is a question and you go off! You can't answer so your childish response is to call me a troll? Very adult of you, attacking someone is always the way people should react when they can't answer a simple question. You make a very confusing statement and you can't answer a question to help someone understand what you are saying? We still have no clue on what you are pissed about. So I will try to explain what you are looking at, maybe that will help.
To start with it is not a gauge, it is an indicator of temps and it does just that.... does it show when the engine is cold .....yes.......does it show normal temps.......yes.....does it show a rising temp.........yes. The problem is you don't seem to accept that is all you will get from an indicator. The indicator WILL tell you if you are going over normal temp if you look at it. I guess what you prefer is an idiot light since you can't understand a nonlinear bar graph.
The only "visual evidence" I saw shows the indicator is at normal when the temp is normal. Looks like it is doing exactly what Ford designed it to do. Where is this evidence of what temp each bar turns on at?
Free definitions below.
Our temp indicator does not accurately measure anything, it indicates a temp range so people have a simple way to get info, just like our fuel gauge is an indicator, it does not show an exact amount either. But if you run out of gas it will be the indicators fault? Common sense would tell the average person an 8 bar display is NOT an accurate numerical indication unless it it measuring 0-7, it also can not be linear as each bar would be too many degrees difference in our car. Good luck with your car. You may not like the design but the indicator does what Ford designed it to do. And it is far from worthless to the rest of us, see definition. I suggest if you are obsessed with water temp and have major mods you should install some actual gauges and matching calibrated sensors along with a radiator designed to handle the additional heat. But to imply the indicator is worthless because it does not meet your unknown expectations is simply silly.
worth·less
ˈwərTHləs/Submit
adjective
having no real value or use.
"that promise is worthless"
gauge
ɡāj/Submit
noun
1.
an instrument or device for measuring the magnitude, amount, or contents of something, typically with a visual display of such information.
synonyms: measuring device, measuring instrument, meter, measure; More
To start with it is not a gauge, it is an indicator of temps and it does just that.... does it show when the engine is cold .....yes.......does it show normal temps.......yes.....does it show a rising temp.........yes. The problem is you don't seem to accept that is all you will get from an indicator. The indicator WILL tell you if you are going over normal temp if you look at it. I guess what you prefer is an idiot light since you can't understand a nonlinear bar graph.
The only "visual evidence" I saw shows the indicator is at normal when the temp is normal. Looks like it is doing exactly what Ford designed it to do. Where is this evidence of what temp each bar turns on at?
Free definitions below.
Our temp indicator does not accurately measure anything, it indicates a temp range so people have a simple way to get info, just like our fuel gauge is an indicator, it does not show an exact amount either. But if you run out of gas it will be the indicators fault? Common sense would tell the average person an 8 bar display is NOT an accurate numerical indication unless it it measuring 0-7, it also can not be linear as each bar would be too many degrees difference in our car. Good luck with your car. You may not like the design but the indicator does what Ford designed it to do. And it is far from worthless to the rest of us, see definition. I suggest if you are obsessed with water temp and have major mods you should install some actual gauges and matching calibrated sensors along with a radiator designed to handle the additional heat. But to imply the indicator is worthless because it does not meet your unknown expectations is simply silly.
worth·less
ˈwərTHləs/Submit
adjective
having no real value or use.
"that promise is worthless"
gauge
ɡāj/Submit
noun
1.
an instrument or device for measuring the magnitude, amount, or contents of something, typically with a visual display of such information.
synonyms: measuring device, measuring instrument, meter, measure; More
jmrtsus;
Buddy, I've answered every question. Colloquially, the graphical display for water temperature is a "gauge." True that the 8 bars are arbitrary, but it's not useful because the bars imply some granularity.
I do have a means to check the temperature, the Accessport, and took pictures to show the discrepancy between what the car shows as "normal," and how hot the coolant temperament actual was.
Thank you by the way for you childish posting of definitions. You still have yet to offer anything useful or constructive to this thread. Go drive some stop and go around mid-day in high desert conditions right now and let me know how your car handles it. I'd assume since you have a tune from Mountune that their locked AP can at least tell you coolant temperature?
Buddy, I've answered every question. Colloquially, the graphical display for water temperature is a "gauge." True that the 8 bars are arbitrary, but it's not useful because the bars imply some granularity.
I do have a means to check the temperature, the Accessport, and took pictures to show the discrepancy between what the car shows as "normal," and how hot the coolant temperament actual was.
Thank you by the way for you childish posting of definitions. You still have yet to offer anything useful or constructive to this thread. Go drive some stop and go around mid-day in high desert conditions right now and let me know how your car handles it. I'd assume since you have a tune from Mountune that their locked AP can at least tell you coolant temperature?
1) What are the low and high fan activation temps ?
2) Keep old parts. Can someone request to keep their defective radiator for posting photos of it's dissection and analysis?
If we know how it is defective, we might be able to devise a way of identifying/testing them... one that doesn't involve overheating (read: damaging) the engine.
3) No access port? You may be able to use a <$20 infrared temperature reader.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...s&field-keywords=infrared+digital+thermometer
Aim at a metal part as close as possible to the the thermostat. Do not aim at rubber, plastic, transmission, external part such as radiator, etc.
My own HVAC is rarely below the "Hi" setting (I like heat) and there are stark differences in heat output with changes in engine temp.
4) The logical assumption for the pseudo idiot-light behavior of the gauge is that they don't want to cause unnecessary concern; lower post-sale support costs for their dealers which for the Fiesta ST, is likely unusually high. (enthusiast line of vehicle) High post-sale support costs may threaten then continuance of the Fiesta ST line without "sufficiently" offset retail pricing.
5) I understand that the gauge changes to max normal range around 236°F. The outside temperature is relevant to engine temperature which is probably why they placed it right above engine temp. But given that the Sync system displays outside temperature, they should've provided the *option* to switch the outside temp, to coolant and oil temps; perhaps using the same button that toggles through mileage/range display options. Perhaps the compromise would be to exclude oil temp and reset to outside temp after every ignition cycle.
2) Keep old parts. Can someone request to keep their defective radiator for posting photos of it's dissection and analysis?
If we know how it is defective, we might be able to devise a way of identifying/testing them... one that doesn't involve overheating (read: damaging) the engine.
3) No access port? You may be able to use a <$20 infrared temperature reader.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...s&field-keywords=infrared+digital+thermometer
Aim at a metal part as close as possible to the the thermostat. Do not aim at rubber, plastic, transmission, external part such as radiator, etc.
My own HVAC is rarely below the "Hi" setting (I like heat) and there are stark differences in heat output with changes in engine temp.
4) The logical assumption for the pseudo idiot-light behavior of the gauge is that they don't want to cause unnecessary concern; lower post-sale support costs for their dealers which for the Fiesta ST, is likely unusually high. (enthusiast line of vehicle) High post-sale support costs may threaten then continuance of the Fiesta ST line without "sufficiently" offset retail pricing.
5) I understand that the gauge changes to max normal range around 236°F. The outside temperature is relevant to engine temperature which is probably why they placed it right above engine temp. But given that the Sync system displays outside temperature, they should've provided the *option* to switch the outside temp, to coolant and oil temps; perhaps using the same button that toggles through mileage/range display options. Perhaps the compromise would be to exclude oil temp and reset to outside temp after every ignition cycle.
Intuit, great idea on the infrared temp gun. If you are looking at the front of the car, the thermostat is located behind the radiator, in the upper left quadrant. Not sure if you can actually hit it with all that's in the way, but for those without a large intercooler in the way, aiming at the different zones of the radiator might indicate how much of a temperature difference there is across the core.
The user here that has his replaced said the techs found there to be a large difference across the core of his broken radiator. Someone else also mentioned micro cracking in the end tanks, something that isn't likely to be determined unless you take the front end off your car.
I have to mention as well that, for me, it's not about being able to do some laps in hot weather, but just not be nervous when driving around mid-day in traffic. I've never had problems on the freeway or long higher speed drives. It's the baking at lights and slow stop and go traffic on a hot day that overheating symptoms creep up. Still, my car sits at about 185-195F on temperate days (what I would consider normal for a functioning cooling system). On warm days, even when cruising at 60 MPH, the car never goes below 205F.
This is all in the Las Vegas metro in 105-115F temps at 1200-3000ft. Interestingly, down by Nellis AFB, where it's at the lowest altitude is where I experience the high temps the most. Driving around in traffic up in my neck of the desert in the same conditions has been easier on my car, despite the higher elevation.
The user here that has his replaced said the techs found there to be a large difference across the core of his broken radiator. Someone else also mentioned micro cracking in the end tanks, something that isn't likely to be determined unless you take the front end off your car.
I have to mention as well that, for me, it's not about being able to do some laps in hot weather, but just not be nervous when driving around mid-day in traffic. I've never had problems on the freeway or long higher speed drives. It's the baking at lights and slow stop and go traffic on a hot day that overheating symptoms creep up. Still, my car sits at about 185-195F on temperate days (what I would consider normal for a functioning cooling system). On warm days, even when cruising at 60 MPH, the car never goes below 205F.
This is all in the Las Vegas metro in 105-115F temps at 1200-3000ft. Interestingly, down by Nellis AFB, where it's at the lowest altitude is where I experience the high temps the most. Driving around in traffic up in my neck of the desert in the same conditions has been easier on my car, despite the higher elevation.
Has anyone with an AP measured what coolant temperature it displays v. how many bars are showing on the dash gauge? @jayrod 1980, I believe earlier on this thread you said it goes to 5 bars at 236 deg and to the max of 8 bars at 250, where it goes into limp mode. It would be great if anyone has this info for all bars, and to know if you're you're stock or modified. I don't have an AP. To start a chart based on this info-
BARS ON GAUGE / TEMP ON ACESSPORT
1-
2-
3-
4-(NORMAL)122? *
5- 236
6-
7-
8- (MAX) 250
* I looked back at a thread on warming up the car, the other side of the coin. Someone reported seeing 4 bars, indicating the car's warmed up, at 122 deg. As you all know, the car shows that it's warmed up very quickly, maybe more quickly that it really is. On a cold start on a warm day, I'll show one bar by 10-15 sec, and 4 bars can show in under a minute.
However, it doesn't make sense to me that 4 bars = 122, and 5 bars = 236, that's a huge jump. Anyway, it would be interesting to see what folks have measured.
BARS ON GAUGE / TEMP ON ACESSPORT
1-
2-
3-
4-(NORMAL)122? *
5- 236
6-
7-
8- (MAX) 250
* I looked back at a thread on warming up the car, the other side of the coin. Someone reported seeing 4 bars, indicating the car's warmed up, at 122 deg. As you all know, the car shows that it's warmed up very quickly, maybe more quickly that it really is. On a cold start on a warm day, I'll show one bar by 10-15 sec, and 4 bars can show in under a minute.
However, it doesn't make sense to me that 4 bars = 122, and 5 bars = 236, that's a huge jump. Anyway, it would be interesting to see what folks have measured.
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