What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

WHY I turn off the nannies as much as the console button will allow, every single time I start this car!
I still have the factory 'all season' pads on the car for almost 8 years, and 46K miles so far, and although I am going to change them, as well as the rotors, out this month, they are still stopping the car well, and with no noise at all.

Does anyone know if the bought from Rock Auto, Motorcraft 'S' (or 'summer tire/performance') pads come with the retaining clip hardware (and possibly the slider pin replacement 'bellows' as well?) like pictured above in Intuit's pics?

It seems that Motorcraft/Ford does not sell said hardware separately, like the other brake hardware companies (Carlson, AC Delco, etc.) do.

That (and to prevent any 'stick/release' problems, and even rotor wear as well) is exactly what the ad 'copy' for most pads which have said chamfering description states as the reason for it being done.

It’s usually a measure to prevent pad lifting and uneven wear across the pad (the pad will tend to “wedge” and wear either the trailing edge faster) the same reason that some multi-pot calipers use larger and smaller leading/trailing pistons.

If you look carefully, sometimes (but not always), the chamfer on the leading and trailing edge of the pad will be asymmetrical so that the pad center shifts slightly at full thickness.

It can also help with brake squeal, and sometimes edge chunking depending on the compound.

Funny, as I was reading your post, I had literally just unboxed a set of BRF1494 front pads from Rockauto. They do include the brake hardware.

One thing I noticed is that while they say BRF1494 and AY1Z-2001-D on the box, the actual Ford pads in the box are marked AY11-2K021-CA, which appears to be a superseding part number from a Ford B-Max (UK only Fiesta based MPV replaced by the Puma). They are not chamfered. They do however still have the big “S” mark on them and not the “H” of the A/S pads.

Are the replacement rubber bellows, protective 'boots' for the slider pins in that hardware packet??

I cannot tell from your pic above, and I did not order the separate Carlson/AC Delco/whatever version of them from Rock Auto thinking that they came with the pads.

Mine did not have the boots, I bought them separately

That's gotta be a record. One member here does offer a 'memory' button that automatically disables it with each ignition cycle.


Maybe they still need more bedding but don't seem to have the bite of the original pads that came with this car. This car came with the Summer tires. My passenger side inside rotor is probably at or below minimum thickness. Did the pads as emergency replacement; will pickup some rotors soon. Just spending time looking at some choices.

Yes, I know, it is SCCA Rallycrosser JDG who offers that modification.

I would have bought one when he was first offering them to us on the site except that you still have to hit a button every time you start the car, so I passed on that.
IF it were a default to NO TC/VSC/any other nannies, with only having to hit the button to activate them, I would've been first in line for that mod.

You bought the more 'pedestrian' H (all season tire from the factory) pads, so yes they absolutely will not have the bite, or resistance to fade in very hard use that the S (summer tire from the factory) pads are known for.

The H pads do last an insane amount of miles/time (8 years/45K miles for me!) though, and I am told that they dust MUCH less than the S pads I am installing in their place, so I will find out what the direct differences really are.

I used the JB Weld glass repair kit. It works VERY well, you can hardly see the impact point and the crack is also gone. I don't understand however their claim that it will fill a crack 1 1/4 inch wide when the hole in the dispenser is about 1/8" wide.

What is turning off the nannies?

Damn, that is quite the upgrade. Where does one get a replacement subframe now that the FiST is no longer being made? I'm assuming this is beyond the scope of the average backyard mechanic.

what did you have before?

Hello from Germany where I’ve seen a million GTIs and Golf Rs but not a single ST 👋

Pushing and holding down the TC/ESC button on the vertical part of the console until the display screen shows the complete system off.
Of course there is still some residual torque vectoring with the rear brakes, and the ABS is still active.

So it is not possible to switch them completely and totally off, unless you can find a way to actually re-write the ECM/BCM programs and still have the car function, and pass the various state inspections/OBD plug in tests, etc.

The 'nannies' are all of the electronically programmed into the systems of the car, intrusive driving 'helpers' all of the manufacturers insist on pushing on us.

They are mostly ANTI-performance/performance killing for the most part, except for the real launch control/traction control systems in higher end performance cars (and possibly the ones in the premium tunes from the better tuners for us in the Cobb AP3 world).

Evap canister fixed my check engine light and I finally was able to pass inspection!
Side note, I drove my car in our warehouse today and of course had to take a picture

Starting your very own Gymkhana series, like KB??

I'll own up to "snapped one of the studs holding up the evap canister....." I hate playing with fire (blowtorch) and am going to try and back it out - it's a press fit.

They are still available new. Part No.: AY1Z-5019-A CROSS MEMBER ASY

Replaced the exhaust hangers back to new OEM ones and WOW what a difference. I had the whoosh poly ones before. (Stock exhaust)

I had a nasty resonance between 3k and 4k rpms on deceleration that was very loud that is now completely gone. Very happy camper!

Just the Cobb 93 octane tune that came with the AP

A few days ago, but I replaced my fuel tank which developed a hole due to the ABS line being melted around when my exhaust popped off. While I was in there I assessed all the damage from that, which seems to be limited to having melted the rubber off the brake lines and my now departed old gas tank, plus a little bit of damage where the heat shield got so hot it became fragile. Overall I escaped pretty lucky I think. I need to do my fluids in the next two days as I have a two day track session coming up where my RT660s will likely be no good per tread reading as they're maybe 3/32" right now (Using a quarter since I can't find my depth gauge). That said, seems like people don't pay much mind to the tread on these given the tread is pretty token. How far do people run them usually? They honestly seem to have plenty of life left in them, and everything I've ever read says they get faster the more the tread wears.

Otherwise I'm replacing them with RE71RS after this weekend, but if I've got more life, I'll run these for my last two track days at least