REVIEW
Many of us wanted a backup camera however Ford left it out of the FiST to keep the cost down.
Here is just one option.
I preferred to have a system that looked and worked like it was a factory install.
NAV-TV provides a system that is exactly that.
In doing the research I had a number of questions that needed to be answered.
Not only would there be hardware involved but software as well.
I found out that Ford will NOT normally reprogram for anything in these newer cars that was not a factory install or a dealer installed option.
Next I was concerned that any programming might interfere with or not function with the Cobb AP that I already owned.
After contacting NAV-TV, I was told that everything would work correctly however they still could not tell me that their system had been installed in a FiST and tested under all these conditions.
They also explained that they provide their own programmer and program so the dealer/Ford is not involved.
I used the NTV-KIT 456, FORD RVC ALTERNATE KIT and NTV-KIT 299, CAMERA 6 KIT.
I can now honestly say that, YES, it does work perfectly in a FiST.
Although it is not an alternative to turning you head, it does provide another point of view for added safety.
It also functions correctly with a Cobb AP tune installed.
INSTALL
The install instructions provided were not written for a Fiesta.
They are correct but could use a little more info.
The parts provided are designed to work in multiple cars so although it is mostly Plug-N-Play.
So a few questions came up.
It was suggested that the programming should be done FIRST instead of a later step.
The provided instructions are correct however it does say ignition and radio ON.
It should additionally say ENGINE OFF.
After programming, the car should be tested.
The car can be started and placed in reverse.
The MFD should go blank and then an error message should appear that says the camera is not working and to see your dealer.
Of course this normal as the camera has not yet been installed
Now the fun begins.
None of this is hard to do, it will just take a couple of hours.
First remove the dash cover above the MFD.
Use a plastic tool so as not to mar the plastic.
There are 6 clips, 2 in the front corners, 2 in middle of the sides, & 2 in the rear corners.
Now remove the MFD, the 4 TORX screws facing you.
Disconnect the MFD as per the instructions and set aside.
Install the new harness with video board and re-install the MFD making sure to leave the RED, BLACK, & VIDEO wires accessible.
The GRAY, WHITE, & BLUE wires are NOT used.
You will also need to remove the glove box door so the camera extension cable can be fed down.
Just push in at the sides to release the stops and then unclip the bottom by pulling.
The camera extension cable should be pulled down until the ferrite bead is just in the hole behind the MFD.
Running the camera extension in this manor, will insure that you WILL have enough cable length.
Now you will need to remove the right side inner door sill trims, both front and rear.
Also remove the right kick panel.
You can then run the cable in the wire trough in front then feed the cable under the B pillar trim and into the rear door sill.
About 3 feet of mechanic?s wire is good for this.
Next run the cable under the rear door seal and into the rear under the hatch seal.
You will need to remove the inner hatch trim.
1 screw on each side piece and 1 in the handle area of the large cover.
Now run the cable up and across under the hatch seal then into and through the wire tube.
This is the one on the left side of the car.
After running the cable you can unclip the plastic retainers to reattach the tube and then put it back in the holes.
Feed the cable to the large opening on the left side of the hatch.
Now it is time to install the camera.
Remove the outer rear hatch trim.
This is the part that houses the hatch release button and license plate lights.
It is held in with 6 nuts.
Don't forget the wire connector and grommet.
Using the supplied template, mark the center of the hole just to the right of the release button.
I suggest using a stepping drill bit as they do not grab like most drill bits as you are just drilling plastic.
Drill to a 1 inch hole.
Install the camera and run the cable through the grommet.
Remember the trim has a slight curve to it.
So aim the camera straight back, it should be just fine.
Re-install the trim, now with camera.
Connect the camera to the extension cable installed earlier.
Final Connection.
Back at the MFD you should have the accessible RED, BLACK, & VIDEO wires.
You will also have the camera extension cable.
The video RCA connectors will just go together.
The camera extension cable has a small white 5 pin (female) connector that will need to be cut off.
This step was also left out of the supplied instructions.
Connect the RED to RED and BLACK to BLACK using the already installed crimp connectors.
You should now have a working backup camera.
Now of course you need to put all the previously removed parts back on your car.
Dave
Many of us wanted a backup camera however Ford left it out of the FiST to keep the cost down.
Here is just one option.
I preferred to have a system that looked and worked like it was a factory install.
NAV-TV provides a system that is exactly that.
In doing the research I had a number of questions that needed to be answered.
Not only would there be hardware involved but software as well.
I found out that Ford will NOT normally reprogram for anything in these newer cars that was not a factory install or a dealer installed option.
Next I was concerned that any programming might interfere with or not function with the Cobb AP that I already owned.
After contacting NAV-TV, I was told that everything would work correctly however they still could not tell me that their system had been installed in a FiST and tested under all these conditions.
They also explained that they provide their own programmer and program so the dealer/Ford is not involved.
I used the NTV-KIT 456, FORD RVC ALTERNATE KIT and NTV-KIT 299, CAMERA 6 KIT.
I can now honestly say that, YES, it does work perfectly in a FiST.
Although it is not an alternative to turning you head, it does provide another point of view for added safety.
It also functions correctly with a Cobb AP tune installed.
INSTALL
The install instructions provided were not written for a Fiesta.
They are correct but could use a little more info.
The parts provided are designed to work in multiple cars so although it is mostly Plug-N-Play.
So a few questions came up.
It was suggested that the programming should be done FIRST instead of a later step.
The provided instructions are correct however it does say ignition and radio ON.
It should additionally say ENGINE OFF.
After programming, the car should be tested.
The car can be started and placed in reverse.
The MFD should go blank and then an error message should appear that says the camera is not working and to see your dealer.
Of course this normal as the camera has not yet been installed
Now the fun begins.
None of this is hard to do, it will just take a couple of hours.
First remove the dash cover above the MFD.
Use a plastic tool so as not to mar the plastic.
There are 6 clips, 2 in the front corners, 2 in middle of the sides, & 2 in the rear corners.
Now remove the MFD, the 4 TORX screws facing you.
Disconnect the MFD as per the instructions and set aside.
Install the new harness with video board and re-install the MFD making sure to leave the RED, BLACK, & VIDEO wires accessible.
The GRAY, WHITE, & BLUE wires are NOT used.
You will also need to remove the glove box door so the camera extension cable can be fed down.
Just push in at the sides to release the stops and then unclip the bottom by pulling.
The camera extension cable should be pulled down until the ferrite bead is just in the hole behind the MFD.
Running the camera extension in this manor, will insure that you WILL have enough cable length.
Now you will need to remove the right side inner door sill trims, both front and rear.
Also remove the right kick panel.
You can then run the cable in the wire trough in front then feed the cable under the B pillar trim and into the rear door sill.
About 3 feet of mechanic?s wire is good for this.
You will need to remove the inner hatch trim.
1 screw on each side piece and 1 in the handle area of the large cover.
Now run the cable up and across under the hatch seal then into and through the wire tube.
This is the one on the left side of the car.
After running the cable you can unclip the plastic retainers to reattach the tube and then put it back in the holes.
Feed the cable to the large opening on the left side of the hatch.
Now it is time to install the camera.
Remove the outer rear hatch trim.
This is the part that houses the hatch release button and license plate lights.
It is held in with 6 nuts.
Don't forget the wire connector and grommet.
Using the supplied template, mark the center of the hole just to the right of the release button.
I suggest using a stepping drill bit as they do not grab like most drill bits as you are just drilling plastic.
Drill to a 1 inch hole.
Install the camera and run the cable through the grommet.
Remember the trim has a slight curve to it.
So aim the camera straight back, it should be just fine.
Re-install the trim, now with camera.
Connect the camera to the extension cable installed earlier.
Final Connection.
Back at the MFD you should have the accessible RED, BLACK, & VIDEO wires.
You will also have the camera extension cable.
The video RCA connectors will just go together.
The camera extension cable has a small white 5 pin (female) connector that will need to be cut off.
This step was also left out of the supplied instructions.
Connect the RED to RED and BLACK to BLACK using the already installed crimp connectors.
You should now have a working backup camera.
Now of course you need to put all the previously removed parts back on your car.
Dave
