Dead Hook Motorsports Sound Symposer Delete Kit

[D1JL]

I have only seen that happen when you dont do it in the right order
Remove: ECU connectors, battery ground, and then battery positive
Install: ECU connectors, battery positive, and then battery ground
Realizing now that i did not lay that out exactly i will be updating the instructions soon.
Thank you for the post though bring up a good point.
Russ

I don't mean to correct but I think it should be.

When working on automotive electronics.

Always remove: Battery Ground FIRST
Always install: Battery Ground LAST



Dave

 

[DHM1]

I don't mean to correct but I think it should be.

When working on automotive electronics.

Always remove: Battery Ground FIRST
Always install: Battery Ground LAST



Dave

Dave thank you I was very tired last night LOL I knew it didn't look right. The instructions have the right order haha. I edited my post. I just need to have ecu connectors after lol.

Russ

 

[Svvift]

Haven't got tracking info? Did it get delayed?

 

[DHM1]

Haven't got tracking info? Did it get delayed?

Should be connected to your paypal info. Please PM your paypal email and full name. Everything went out Friday.

Russ

 

[DHM1]

Haven't got tracking info? Did it get delayed?

Just checked paypal yours should be at your house today! Ill pm you the tracking number!

Russ

 

[Svvift]

I see it now. I've had intermittent issues with that email on my phone.

 

[westcoaST]

I don't mean to correct but I think it should be.

When working on automotive electronics.

Always remove: Battery Ground FIRST
Always install: Battery Ground LAST



Dave

Based on my experience, the order only matters when completing the install.
1. Plug in ECU
2. Attach positive terminal
3. Attach negative terminal

When removing the battery box:
1. Remove negative terminal
2. Remove positive terminal
3. Remove ECU plugs

 

[DHM1]

Based on my experience, the order only matters when completing the install.
1. Plug in ECU
2. Attach positive terminal
3. Attach negative terminal

When removing the battery box:
1. Remove negative terminal
2. Remove positive terminal
3. Remove ECU plugs

Same thing I posted one page back after I edited this morning lol

thank you

Russ

 

[D1JL]

Based on my experience, the order only matters when completing the install.

Yes, you both have it correct now.
However the statement above is not 100%.

The reason you should ALWAYS remove the negative battery connection first is primarily for safety.
If your tool should slip at this point, touching negative to ground would make no difference and no sparks.
Sometimes we are working on cars with fuel problems, sparks and gas is not a good thing.
Also some of us have expensive tools and those ARC marks don't look good on them.

It is just a VERY good habit to get into.

ALWAYS remove negative first
(unless you are working a positive ground vehicle)



Dave

 

[westcoaST]

Yes, you both have it correct now.
However the statement above is not 100%.

The reason you should ALWAYS remove the negative battery connection first is primarily for safety.
If your tool should slip at this point, touching negative to ground would make no difference and no sparks.
Sometimes we are working on cars with fuel problems, sparks and gas is not a good thing.
Also some of us have expensive tools and those ARC marks don't look good on them.

It is just a VERY good habit to get into.

ALWAYS remove negative first
(unless you are working a positive ground vehicle)



Dave

You are correct Dave, I was only commenting on when to remove/install the ECU plugs if you don't want problems with the ECU after buttoning things up. Plug in the ECU plugs before connecting the battery and you won't have the A/C not working problem. This will require that you disconnect and reconnect the battery once again. Plug in the ECU last, and you will most probably have the referenced problem. Always good to have the neg terminal removed first, replaced last. Should be a habit.

 

[D1JL]

Great.
I hate to take this thread off track like this but this a very important issue.
We do have a lot of FIRST time DIY auto techs here.




Dave

 

[DHM1]

Great.
I hate to take this thread off track like this but this a very important issue.
We do have a lot of FIRST time DIY auto techs here.




Dave

Dave I completely agree thank you. I appreciate it. The most important thing here and I should have explained it better. I will be updating the instructions tonight and emailing everyone.

just so everyone is clear what we are talking about

Remove: battery ground, battery positive and then ECU connectors

Install: ECU connectors, battery positive, and then battery ground

Thank both of you guys again.

Russ

 

[airjor13]

Got my kit, looks great thanks Russ! After fighting with the stock clamps for about an hour, I decided to call it quits for the night and retry tomorrow morning.

Can you guys recommend a good way to remove the "box" and the stock tube clamps? I usually pride my self in being an DIY'er but those clamps are a B and the lack of room doesn't help

 

[PocketRocketST]

Got mine in today! Thanks!

Install to come when there's warmer weather.

 

[D1JL]

Can you guys recommend a good way to remove the "box" and the stock tube clamps? I usually pride my self in being an DIY'er but those clamps are a B and the lack of room doesn't help

Those spring clamp pliers are available a most auto parts stores and not very expensive.
There are about 3 in the set.
I would suggest you get a set as this type of clamp is all over the car as well as all new cars.

Remember, it is the tools that makes the mechanic.



Dave

 

[DHM1]

Got my kit, looks great thanks Russ! After fighting with the stock clamps for about an hour, I decided to call it quits for the night and retry tomorrow morning.

Can you guys recommend a good way to remove the "box" and the stock tube clamps? I usually pride my self in being an DIY'er but those clamps are a B and the lack of room doesn't help

I use pliers that are meant to clamp a hose. Needle nose vise grips are the 2nd best option. Anything that locks that way once you have them clamped and locked shut you can work the hose.

Not what they are made for but damn they work good.

Russ

 

[airjor13]

Thanks guys! Off to Advance Auto I go!

 

[DHM1]

Thanks guys! Off to Advance Auto I go!

Pics when done!!!

Russ

 

[westcoaST]

Check out my build thread. I replaced the OEM charge tubes with the Mountune hoses. I used a pair of needle nose vise clamps to move the OEM clamps out of the way. Then you need to break the hose away from fittings. I used a pair of flat screwdrivers to pry the hose away from the fittings. I then use a small amount of silicone lube to aid in pushing the new fittings on, with the clamps set up to clamp down. Having the right tools is very important. I buy tools before I start a job, to make my life easier.

 

[bobjob]

maybe an install video is in order?