Dead Hook Motorsports Sound Symposer Delete Kit

[Vash350z]

How do I pay?

 

[DHM1]

How do I pay?

I sent you a PM

Paypal is deadhooktuning@gmail.com (it is in OP)

Thank you

Russ

 

[DHM1]

How do I pay?

Got payment! OP updated!


Printing labels now everyone should be getting tracking numbers soon!

Thank you

Russ

 

[JPGC]

Got my tracking number thanks

 

[airjor13]

Sweet got my tracking too thanks Russ!

 

[DHM1]

Got my tracking number thanks

Sweet got my tracking too thanks Russ!

Cant wait until you guys get it! Make sure you post pictures!

Russ

 

[MMMTRBO]

Cant wait until you guys get it! Make sure you post pictures!

Russ

Stoked to get this! Will definitely get some photos. Thanks for everything, Russ!

 

[Boro]

Got my tracking number too, thanks Russ! First mod ever, woo!

 

[JPGC]

Cant wait until you guys get it! Make sure you post pictures!

Russ

Will certainly do!!

 

[DHM1]

Just for the couple people wondering and wanted to know the differences between our kit and others on the market.

Our kit is the only kit that deletes 100% of the factory sound symposer system.

We include

- (Qty:1) 6061 Billet Aluminium Plug (powder coated for corrosion protection)(Will drill and tap for options like Meth, Nitrous, or boost reference.)
- (Qty:1) Black 4 Ply Silicon Hose
- (Qty:2) 100% Stainless Steel Liner Hose clamps (liner protects silicon hose)(most SS hose clamps have zinc bolts still; however our 100% SS clamps cost a little more but will not corrode)
- (Qty:1) Black chemical resistant cap
- (Qty:1) Long Zip Tie
- (Qty:1) Dead Hook Motorsports Green Decal (also available in pink if specified before shipping)
- (Qty:1) Detailed Instructions

Our kit does not only delete the box itself it deletes the factory hose replacing it with high quality 4-ply silicon and 100% stainless clamps. We also include a cap to delete the hose that goes be hide the battery box.

When your trying to delete your sound symposer chose the cheaper, cleaner and quality route.

 

[DHM1]

Video and Instructions posted!!!!

Russ

 

[doubletap]

Video and Instructions posted!!!!

Russ

I see why you asked the question on the other thread. I honestly thought we wouldn't have to take out the hose going into the cabin and cap the hose itself. Makes for a simpler install and easier to reverse if need be.

Thankfully I have to install a set of transmission bracket bushings so I'll do the symposer delete at the same time.

 

[DHM1]

I see why you asked the question on the other thread. I honestly thought we wouldn't have to take out the hose going into the cabin and cap the hose itself. Makes for a simpler install and easier to reverse if need be.

Thankfully I have to install a set of transmission bracket bushings so I'll do the symposer delete at the same time.

Yea the point of my clean is to make a very clean removal of the sound symposer. Deleting that hose and not leaving it there with a plug in it is the best way. Honestly pulling the battery and box out is super quick. 5 bolts plus the battery cables and two ecu plugs. Anyone with an aftermarket intake i would think would have enough room to get it out without all the intake removal. Also with this kit being cheaper and having everything to delete from start to finish i think anyone who got this kit and anyone who is getting this kit in the future will realize its well worth the extra 20-30min to clean up and get rid of the rest.

Russ

 

[JPGC]

I should have mine tomorrow

 

[JPGC]

Yea the point of my clean is to make a very clean removal of the sound symposer. Deleting that hose and not leaving it there with a plug in it is the best way. Honestly pulling the battery and box out is super quick. 5 bolts plus the battery cables and two ecu plugs. Anyone with an aftermarket intake i would think would have enough room to get it out without all the intake removal. Also with this kit being cheaper and having everything to delete from start to finish i think anyone who got this kit and anyone who is getting this kit in the future will realize its well worth the extra 20-30min to clean up and get rid of the rest.

Russ

Yeah getting that hose out of the way cleans it up a lot as well as the symposer and the long hose that connects it. I have a pcv plug in the stock hose next to the throttle body while I'm waiting for the delete kit. It will look so much better with the shorter hose.

 

[DHM1]

Yeah getting that hose out of the way cleans it up a lot as well as the symposer and the long hose that connects it. I have a pcv plug in the stock hose next to the throttle body while I'm waiting for the delete kit. It will look so much better with the shorter hose.

If you look at the pics i posted you can see how much room it frees up and clean it looks! Tomorrow some guys should be getting theirs.

Russ

 

[JPGC]

If you look at the pics i posted you can see how much room it frees up and clean it looks! Tomorrow some guys should be getting theirs.

Russ

I know

 

[timmytoast]

For those of you that will be removing the battery and disconnecting the ECU, be aware that your car may act funny (A/C not working, vents not diverting properly, etc.). If this happens, disconnect the battery again and let the car sit for a couple hours to let it "figure itself out".

 

[JPGC]

For those of you that will be removing the battery and disconnecting the ECU, be aware that your car may act funny (A/C not working, vents not diverting properly, etc.). If this happens, disconnect the battery again and let the car sit for a couple hours to let it "figure itself out".

Good advice!!! I have had it happen a few times to me, lol. The first time I was cussing for half an hour thinking that I had broken something when I added the mountune shifter adapter. After searching throughout the engine bay, I disconnected the battery and reconnected it. Then took a break. When I came back and restarted the car, all was fine.

 

[DHM1]

For those of you that will be removing the battery and disconnecting the ECU, be aware that your car may act funny (A/C not working, vents not diverting properly, etc.). If this happens, disconnect the battery again and let the car sit for a couple hours to let it "figure itself out".

I have only seen that happen when you dont do it in the right order

Remove: battery ground, battery positive and then ECU connectors

Install: ECU connectors, battery positive, and then battery ground

Realizing now that i did not lay that out exactly i will be updating the instructions soon.

Thank you for the post though bring up a good point.

Russ