Mishimoto radiator install, I recommend waiting for a bolt on or the 2J, unless you are a mod nut....

[Oscar Sanchez]

I think the j2 radiator is available I know a local guy that bought one and they sold him the fans also...

 

[kbgixxer]

Thanks [MENTION=411]westcoaST[/MENTION]

 

[RAAMaudio]

The 2j was in the works months ago but the price ended up to high and production never started.

I decided to get something done, bought a Mishimoto that was the closest fit for just $231 shipped.

A member, and maybe one or two more after that decided to call 2j to see if they could get one made. The price was still very high, plus fan or fans, it might of been close to $1k.

I decided spending $231 shipped was a worthy trade off to save the difference on a DIY install

If I had thought ahead a bit more I would of driven 6 blocks and had the AC pumped out, where they give me a credit for it when pumped back in later and pulled the condenser out, it was what made the job the hardest as mounting it required I could get to it.

In the end I am glad I did the job, saved quite a bit of weight and even more air flow than previous mods for that and I like the way it looks, I would of saved quite a bit of time if the original plan was to removed most all the stock radiator support and probably less time if I just built a whole new one.

I saved more weight than the added capacity of the radiator added to the car.

My post is to show it can be done but that it takes a lot of work, it could of been less well installed but I do not do things that way and I am on a front of the car weight reduction plan as so much out of the rear caused a bit of unstable braking at 130MPH on the track.

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So, wait for Mishimoto to make an ST radiator, spend the big bucks on the 2J or DIY with quite a bit of effort, at least there are choices

 

[kjm]

Great work. I've had nothing but issues with Mishimoto rads leaking in the past but I can say thier warranty is tops.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Thanks

I have had perfect luck with MM radiators and never heard of leaking ones, weird how different things can be for some of us.

I have had a Koyo or two without issues as well.

Best radiator I ever had was a Ron Davis in a race vette that was pretty bent from a prior crash and still used because it did not leak and cooled just as well but they cost a great deal more. Most expensive radiator I have had was another Ron Davis custom built for a street vette, it was 4 times the cost of the MM, ouch!

I was looking into higher end but not crazy priced close fit radiators but did not find one quite right, the MM was the best I could get, just took far longer to install than expected but as mentioned I could done it much simpler but less secure and I just do not like doing things that way.

Notice the ABS panel I made trim/radiator support to bumper cover mount, it was interesting bending that as my heat tape was not long enough and it was to cold for it so I had to use a heat gun, took about an hour to get it right then fine tuned once installed.

 

[nttdemented]

Hey RAAM, how's the idle temps with A/C working out for you? I've had my 2J Radiator installed since lat November. I didn't nearly have to mod my front support area to mount it like you have, I literally just dropped it in there with the 2 fans they gave me and I tied the condenser to the front support structure instead of the radiator.

As of now my only cooling mod has been replacing the radiator and fans, I decided to keep the stock coolant to have a proper control variable. On track the 2J Rad did its job as I expected. I was able to run a 20minute session with an ambient temp over 100 degrees with 100% humidity. I still saw water temps close to 240 by the end of the session and oil temp around 250 as well. But it's still miles better than seeing 250 degrees and limp mode activated after only 3 minutes. Problem is the lack of shroud is killing me when idling with A/C on. Keep in mind I's currently 85 degrees where I live, this is about as cold a day becomes during "winter" here. Just idling in traffic on a hot day for 10 minutes and I see temps reach 230's and 240's. I've been having to turn off my A/C and/or turn on my heater and vent it outside the windows so keep the water temp in check in extreme conditions.

How have your temps at idle been holding up? I've been talking to my mechanic and we are planning on slapping the stock fan and shroud onto the 2J radiator to stop this problem, I also plan on flushing my OEM coolant mix for some Evans Cooling and bypassing the water->oil cooler and putting in a proper oil cooler. The other thing I'd like to do is open up the OEM grill. How did you go about doing that? Been thinking maybe a belt sander to the back of the grill should be the easiest way to remove the backing plastic of the bottom half of the grill then using a dremel to smooth out the burred plastic a bit. Doing each hole one by one with a dremel sounds infurriating. I saw a fully opened metal mesh grill that looked very good on the Puma Speed site, bit pricey though... Then again I spent $1,000 on a radiator. lol

 

[RAAMaudio]

Terribly sorry, I read this but got sidetracked and forgot to respond.

I have not used my car in high heat or traffic thus I cannot answer everything properly at the moment except to say having an oil cooler and opening up the grill will help quite a bit I am sure.

Also there is room to open up the lower side of the radiator support to allow much more air flow out of the IC and you could direct some of that below the radiator, even more if you lower the IC as far as it will go.

Also sealing up everything to maximize air flow through all the coolers will help.

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My car has never been driven in over 75 degree weather, 2k miles, mostly test runs, some track use.

70 degrees on track with 238 oil temp just once, the rest of the runs were in the lower 200 range, Max water temp was around 220 but the actual numbers are on this thread or my track even thread...with the stock but much better used radiator. I decided then I needed a bigger radiator, the 2-J was not out nor had been placed on custom order until I bought Mishimoto and already started doing the install or was about to, etc...

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Opening up the grill is a tedious task, I used a big rough abrasive disk and it has to be kept moving as it will start to melt the grill, then a utility knife to clean up the slag left behind.

I notched my bumper and looking for a decent price on some aero tubing to weld back in to ensure the best flow and strenght.

One could cut round holes, slide in a tube and weld them to get better flow with less work and more strength, the tubing would not need thick side walls nor full perimeter welding. The beam is of high strength steel and rather hard to drill into so a punch would be better. Oval tubing is available so two holes cut then trimmed with a cut off wheel would open it up more.

Or, cut rectangular hose with a cut off wheel and slide in rectangular tubing and weld it in, this would be easier than punching holes by far.

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I have been considering oval holes in the bumper beam to get more direct air to the IC but have not found anything suitable to trim them with and do not just want plain holes.

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Hope this helps at least a bit

 

[Chuckable]

I've been watching this thread since I live in South Florida and the temps are about as extreme as in Puerto Rico, at least in the summer. Anyway, nttdemented, it sounds like your mechanic is on the right track. If you're having trouble in stop-and-go traffic then it's lack of airflow through the radiator which is probably lack of a proper shroud in your case since 2J gave you upgraded fans.

I'd be interested to see if a new grille which opens up more airflow to the stock radiator/shroud/fan would do much to improve track temps, perhaps in conjunction with a hood louver.

 

[nttdemented]

No need to be sorry. I figured I'm on my own with the conditions I live in and doing serious track use every two months at least. You are very handy with fabrication my friend. Sadly, I am not, my mechanic probably is but it would probably cost me a pretty penny to do all the fab work and ducting you have done.

I need to keep it simple and stupid. I'm gonna keep moving forward with my current plan witch is:

1- Flush collant from the block and radiator to use Evans Cooling fluid.
2- Bypass stock oil cooler for a 10 row oil cooler.
3- Re attach stock fan shroud.
4- Open up lower portion of the front grill.

I'll talk to mechanic about making sure we make the fitment of the stock fan shroud as sealed as possible against the 2J radiator.

Next on my list is a 2J full race downpipe and either a Cobb or Airtec FMIC. Those two mods should help keep my temps down on track and help me maintain the same level of power I feel on the street on track as my stock FMIC gets heat soaked quickly and I lose a lot of power.

 

[RAAMaudio]

When you pull off the stock oil cooler you will need a way to mount the sandwich plate as the part that holds the oil cooler on does not have threads for the sandwich plate "bolt"

I used a brass nipple that was a bit shorter than preferred so I was very careful in mounting it and have checked the tightness of the filter several times, no issues at all. I will have to look up the part I used when I get back to Utah.

I used a Setrab 19 roll cooler with the ends both on the same side so they are not blocking any airflow, I think they make them shorter.

Also make sure to drill out the vertical brace in front of the radiator(AC unit), it is very easy to do with a step bit.

You can also drill holes in the crash sensor mount bar, it is hugely oversize and restrictive. I did that at first but later made a 1/2" sq tube one to reduce the restriction and made it into the oil cooler mount.

Pics show some of these mods on the first page.

 

[alwaysbuilding]

Has anyone else heard talk of products being developed for our cars? My friend said something about a direct fit oil cooler being developed for our cars he just doesn't know where. I am having overheating problems as well didn't get a warning light yet but im crazy about monitoring my temps cuz im paranoid about overheating (graduation which was an 80 some degree day and I came close to over heating in traffic for an hour getting off campus) I really think an oil cooler would help but I don't think I have the skill for DIY so im standing by for a bolt up option im just getting impatient

 

[Chuckable]

Waiting for some companies to make products as well. I've inquired of Mishimoto, Ford Racing, Mountune, CSF, and Koyo. No one is making anything or even has anything on the drawing board as far as I know.

 

[RAAMaudio]

DIY oil cooler was 20% of the effort, it even that much, of the Mishimoto radiator install.

It will take a lot of load off the stock radiator, more so if you can divert some of the air through it so it does not all hit the radiator.

 

[Chuckable]

DIY oil cooler was 20% of the effort, it even that much, of the Mishimoto radiator install.

It will take a lot of load off the stock radiator, more so if you can divert some of the air through it so it does not all hit the radiator.

Do you have any idea what "a lot of load" is? I'm trying to figure out if an oil cooler alone will be enough. An oil cooler with thermostat, lines, fittings, etc. is probably going to cost $300-$500 at the end of the day and an aftermarket upgraded radiator (if and when it comes out) will probably cost roughly the same. The advantage of an upgraded radiator is that the OEM oil cooler sandwich could be retained, and that would avoid the extra points of potential failure that plumbing in separate oil cooler causes.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I did the oil cooler because no radiator was available and I was planning on running more power so did it before I even drove the car but 5 miles, 293 on the clock. I had the Mocal plate and lines and several oil coolers on hand but ended up buying a new Setrab with both fittings on one end so no plumbing int he air flow.

With the Cyborg turbo, DIY tuned so not full power yet, 70 degree weather, 9 track sessions going all out at MMP on the outer loop, high speed track, lots of time under full boost the temps were fine all but one run when the water temp and oil got a bit warm but not terribly hot.

I knew I was going to have more power with a finer tune and going to drive on hot track days so decided to just make a radiator fit.

2J was not producing their radiator so I found the closest Mishimoto and made it fit but it was far more time consuming and cutting things that expected so I made sure to just open everything up to maximize it while at it.

After I had mine nearly finished then 2J made some on custom order and I know they are better than what I have so if I have any issues I will have to get them to make me one unless another unit is made available for less that is better than what I have. I have used Mishimoto several times on track cars with no issues though.

At the moment you may be better off getting 2J to build you a radiator, it will be a very good one and as you mentioned, less to go wrong which is always a bonus.

I would still advise putting in the biggest oil filter that fits, Napa Gold is the best for the money, made by wix, many will fit.

 

[RAAMaudio]

No idea that the numbers would be as for the load change on the radiator and the air from the cooler will blow at least partially on the radiator, mine is around 70% as I offset the oil cooler as far to the passenger side as I could and opened up the core support to allow one line to fit and air flow out. I have to make a little heat shield for the alternator, probably duct a bit of fresh air onto it as well.

 

[Chuckable]

At the moment you may be better off getting 2J to build you a radiator, it will be a very good one and as you mentioned, less to go wrong which is always a bonus.

As always, your willingness to share your knowledge is much appreciated! The last time I checked a 2J radiator was nearly a grand, which is simply too much money for me for a radiator.