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Ecoboost Intake Valve Carbon build up ?

Capri to ST

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A recent AAA report says using Top Tier gas makes a significant difference in preventing intake valve and combustion chamber deposits. From the article-

To measure intake valve and combustion chamber deposits, AAA engaged the services of an independent International Standards Organization 17025 certified engine testing lab to perform an American Society for Testing and Materials standard test on fuels.Among brands tested, non-TOP TIER gasolines caused 19 times more engine deposits than TOP TIER brands after just 4,000 miles of simulated driving.

http://newsroom.aaa.com/2016/07/aaa-not-gasoline-created-equal/

I use Top Tier gas, because I figure it's got to help, but am surprised that they found it made that much difference.
 


OffTheWall503

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A recent AAA report says using Top Tier gas makes a significant difference in preventing intake valve and combustion chamber deposits. From the article-

To measure intake valve and combustion chamber deposits, AAA engaged the services of an independent International Standards Organization 17025 certified engine testing lab to perform an American Society for Testing and Materials standard test on fuels.Among brands tested, non-TOP TIER gasolines caused 19 times more engine deposits than TOP TIER brands after just 4,000 miles of simulated driving.

http://newsroom.aaa.com/2016/07/aaa-not-gasoline-created-equal/

I use Top Tier gas, because I figure it's got to help, but am surprised that they found it made that much difference.
I've only used Chevron/Shell gasoline in mine since purchase at 8 miles. I intend to keep it that way.
 


Capri to ST

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I've only used Chevron/Shell gasoline in mine since purchase at 8 miles. I intend to keep it that way.
I use BP, because it's Top Tier, and because that's what most of the gas stations around here are. I've heard Shell is good, but there's only one in the area, and it's fairly far away.I have a buddy who's a BMW-certified master tech,and he thinks there's something to Top Tier, that it's not just marketing like some claim.
 


dyn085

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It doesn't really matter for us because of our direct injection.

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BlueBomber

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I use BP, because it's Top Tier, and because that's what most of the gas stations around here are. I've heard Shell is good, but there's only one in the area, and it's fairly far away.I have a buddy who's a BMW-certified master tech,and he thinks there's something to Top Tier, that it's not just marketing like some claim.
Costco and Arco are both Top Tier gas dealers.

http://blog.modbargains.com/what-is-top-tier-gas-and-why-it-matters-its-at-costco/

Here's an explanation of what top tier gas is.
 


Intuit

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Yeah, most members haven't taken their intake manifold off to accurately see and get a pic. I fall into that category.

Castrol Magnatec has been showing promise for the Ecoboost platforms over on BITOG; I'm probably going to switch both ST's on their next oil change.
This is a 1.9L SEFI engine at 190k. The engine has always been run cold. (bad thermostat bypass valve) Ignore cylinders 2 and 3, as they have been washed with small amounts of coolant. (cracks from coolant ports near exhaust manifold)
The engine has been run on 5-30w and 10-30w Castrol GTX.
Piston Heads...
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgR3vyRwbwYMhAxs9
Cylinder Head...
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgSAOG9ba8HOrg8tc

The EGR and PCV systems combined, have allowed some debris into the intake.
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgRgDWyK3LiNYlQtv

This is a non Direct Injection engine. So the backs of the valves, like cylinders 2 and 3, should be perfectly clean.

Personally, not going to worry about carbon build up... will just drive my new FiST...
 


RAAMaudio

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I have been running Arco due to top tier and lower price than other top tier brands for quite a few years, did not know Costco is now top tier so will check the prices.

Last fall I decided to try V-power which was considerably more expensive and the car did not run as well, sounded like it was seriously knocking when taking off easily in 1st gear which I should of data logged, I went back to Arco and much better.

I might have to try some Costco soon as have an "executive" card.
 


OffTheWall503

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I have been running Arco due to top tier and lower price than other top tier brands for quite a few years, did not know Costco is now top tier so will check the prices.

Last fall I decided to try V-power which was considerably more expensive and the car did not run as well, sounded like it was seriously knocking when taking off easily in 1st gear which I should of data logged, I went back to Arco and much better.

I might have to try some Costco soon as have an "executive" card.
That's curious to me, because Arco is considered lower-tier fuel here even though they advertise "top-tier" quality. It is always the cheapest fuel in the area and most people with higher power avoid them because they've been known to water down their gas. But maybe that is an Oregon issue rather than Arco. Oregons rules and regulations of fuel are terrible and a lot of the fuel here is piss poor quality in general.
 


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It doesn't really matter for us because of our direct injection.

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This ^.

I'll give you guys some tips because we've had to deal with this DI problem for 10+ years now in the VAG world. Basically there is no magic fix. Using premium fuel and shady additives have been shown to make insignificant results at best. The only way to deal with it is to pull the intake manifold every XX miles and hand clean/walnut blast away the build-up.
 


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Hey guys so I'm not sure how many people already have high millage FiSTs but if its any comfort, I have a 14 FiST with 78,xxx miles on it and It runs beautifully. Ive only owned it for the last 3,xxx ish miles and I haven't had any problems. No stumble, no rough idle, no misfire. I can't speak for the previous owner or maintenance done to the car but assuming best case scenario its looking pretty good compared to what ive seen from other ecoboosts and my time in the VAG community.

I have not taken a look at the valves nor have I used a treatment. But considering the lack of crud built up in the PCV system and intake hoses I can only assume that it has either been cleaned or previously or this issue isn't as bad with the 1.6 eco boost.
 


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Anyone have any experience or thoughts as to the intake cleaner CRC developed specifically for this issue? They CLAIM it won't harm the turbo, but when asked about warranty issues the comments went unanswered. You can find the advertisement on YouTube; just search CRC carbon buildup.
 


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I would ask your local ford dealer if it's ok to use. Some guy on youtube named from tech mukulko or something like that said that if the carbon build up was bad enough, then the whole head needed replacing if it was under warranty.
 


TyphoonFiST

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There are a couple members on here that have used it....with luck and others who have not and scoped the valves to find very little to no buildup on the valves. I run an OCC by Damond I drain out a couple ounces every 10k. Everything is helpful rather than none at all.[twothumb]
 


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There are a couple members on here that have used it....with luck and others who have not and scoped the valves to find very little to no buildup on the valves. I run an OCC by Damond I drain out a couple ounces every 10k. Everything is helpful rather than none at all.[twothumb]
Thanks. Just installed an OCC, but the car already had 18k miles on it. When I removed the stock PCV hose it was dripping with oil
...yay me. I'm just considering my options a t this point. I plan to pull the intake manifold and inspect the valves considering how much oil came from the stock PCV hose.
 


Quisp

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I did it on my n/a focus with no ill affects. When I did my fiesta at 6k it rattled hellacious. Don't know if it was the variable cam timing or knock. Not chancing it again.
 


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I am very curious if this can be used without obvious problems so I plan to try it this weekend even though I am only at 2500 miles. I will spray it in right at the intake manifold so it won't hit the turbo at all. Hopefully it will burn up in the combustion chamber. If I don't get any rattling or knocking, I will likely use it at least every 5000 miles to stay ahead of the curve. I have had a Damond OCC from the time the car was a week old, and after a bit less than 1000 miles there is probably between 1 and 2 ounces of oil that I can drain out. I will use a Dorman coolant bypass cap (like a large rubber vacuum cap) where the line connects right at the intake manifold, with a small hole to push through the straw from the CRC can.
 


TyphoonFiST

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I am very curious if this can be used without obvious problems so I plan to try it this weekend even though I am only at 2500 miles. I will spray it in right at the intake manifold so it won't hit the turbo at all. Hopefully it will burn up in the combustion chamber. If I don't get any rattling or knocking, I will likely use it at least every 5000 miles to stay ahead of the curve. I have had a Damond OCC from the time the car was a week old, and after a bit less than 1000 miles there is probably between 1 and 2 ounces of oil that I can drain out. I will use a Dorman coolant bypass cap (like a large rubber vacuum cap) where the line connects right at the intake manifold, with a small hole to push through the straw from the CRC can.
That CRC cleaner is especially made for Turbo and supercharged Engines even if they are DI or MPFI OR SPFI... you will be ok!

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M-Sport fan

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^^^I believe that the only real 'danger'of ANY type of damage is IF there are large chunks of carbon on the intake valves which when loosened could get blown out of the combustion chamber, and into the turbine's blades.

Mostly unlikely on a lower mileage engine. ;)
 


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