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New intercooler and boost levels

OP
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Thread Starter #21
You know what idk. My buddy put the couplers in. Crap, I'm gonna pull the bumper now and re do it :(

I'm
Not sure I understand the use of silicone
 


westcoaST

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#23
Silicone lubricant prevents cuts and allows the aluminum couplers to slide in further than brute strength. I get some stuff called pool lube at a pool supply website (Leslies). I work at a place that manufactures lots of high and low pressure ducting for aircraft, so we are familiar with this type of stuff. This is why I purchased Murray constant tension clamps. The OEM clamps are good, but there is nothing to prevent them from loosening. I have a list of sizes and what they look like in my build thread. I installed my FMIC several weeks ago with no loosening of any clamps. These clamps are $6.00 to $9.00 but are worth it. I got most of them at McKenney.com
 


OP
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Thread Starter #24
So don't clamp the clamp on top
Of the metal coupler. ?
 


westcoaST

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#25
Take a look at the OEM clamps. They even have a clip on the end of them to keep the clamp away from the hose edge. Here is a pic showing where all clamps should be located.

 


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Thread Starter #26
So rearranged the clamps and tightemd everything again. Peaked at 18.82 psi...
 


westcoaST

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#27
Next step is to pressurize your system with a pressure plug, and make sure your boost hose system can hold 20 - 22 psi. Check out this forum for a boost pressure check plug. You can also make one with a pressure gauge and a tire valve. Before you do that, change to your stage 1 Cobb Tune and check out your boost pressure. Maybe you have a small leak in your intercooler?
 


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Thread Starter #28
Next step is to pressurize your system with a pressure plug, and make sure your boost hose system can hold 20 - 22 psi. Check out this forum for a boost pressure check plug. You can also make one with a pressure gauge and a tire valve. Before you do that, change to your stage 1 Cobb Tune and check out your boost pressure. Maybe you have a small leak in your intercooler?
Ok I'll switch over to stage 1. I was thinking maybe these stock hoses can't handled it idk. Thank you for all the help
 


razorlab

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#29
stock hoses can handle at least 24psi. ;)

What gear are you checking your boost levels in?
 


razorlab

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#31
Like you are going WOT in 1st, shifting to 2nd WOT and then shifting to 3rd WOT?

How about just going WOT in 3rd?
 


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Thread Starter #33
I just had the stage 2 93 on again. Car feels good, doesn't feel slow. But once again 1-3rd 18.6psi

I'll try stage 1 again tomorrow
 


lessard.dcj

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#34
Maybe the revs climb too fast in the first 3 gears for the turbo to produce 21+ psi when useing a stage 2 or 3.. possibility?
 


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Thread Starter #35
Maybe the revs climb too fast in the first 3 gears for the turbo to produce 21+ psi when useing a stage 2 or 3.. possibility?
No clue lol. But I know for sure everything is tight. I thought I read somewhere else, with the efficancy of the new IC that it wouldn't need that much boost to reach the torque curve? Does that make any sense
 


razorlab

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#36
What I meant was just be in third at like 2500-3000 and go WOT until like 4500 to see peak boost instead of rowing through the gears at WOT.
 


rodmoe

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#38
Yup peak boost should hit well before 5k so really no need to hit redline as the boost will be trailing off well before that..
 


westcoaST

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#39
I suggest you pull your IC & take it to a radiator shop, have them pressure test it with air, to verify you don't have any leaks. I have a similar setup to you, and I'm getting higher boost readings.
 


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Thread Starter #40
I peaked today at 19.2 . Idk my injen intake since I got it sounds like dark vader breathing lol nornal?
 




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