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Smoother and more accurate shifts, Motul 300 Gear Lube is a low cost easy mod and worth it:)
- Thread starter RAAMaudio
- Start date
Spec sheets bro!
Motul
Royal Purple
Redline
Mobil 1
Check out the specs, especially the VI numbers (important for us who need to drive in colder climates). Spec sheet-to-spec sheet, Gear 300 is solid. I believe its also very close to the wonky dual clutch stock fluid for VI and really affordable (compared to the stock fluid). There's a good thread on BITOG on manual transmission fluid. Gear 300 is a favourite among the oil geeks!
Motul
Royal Purple
Redline
Mobil 1
Check out the specs, especially the VI numbers (important for us who need to drive in colder climates). Spec sheet-to-spec sheet, Gear 300 is solid. I believe its also very close to the wonky dual clutch stock fluid for VI and really affordable (compared to the stock fluid). There's a good thread on BITOG on manual transmission fluid. Gear 300 is a favourite among the oil geeks!
Thread Starter
#7
I had a bunch of different Redline fluids as well as ATS brake fluids and sold them all and went with the 300 as seems to be the best there is for this application and Rodmoe was really happy with it.
I went with Castrol SRF brake fluid, $$$, as it is the best and I use my brakes hard and had not yet installed brake ducts. I heated up the brakes enough to smell them at the end of some straights but always had solid brakes, it was a wise choice. Many race teams use it a whole season, in the end it is not that expensive since lasts longer that the others quite often.
The shifting was super smooth, accurate, LSD worked amazingly well with it.....
I am using the stock type engine oil for now but will switch to the German Castrol when I go full synthetic and might just use the blend one on the next change as well.
I think after the pounding my engine took at the track, 150 minutes worth of full throttle and full brakes, more on the throttle of course, hit the rev limited a few times, etc.....downshifted a bit early, I need to hear the exhaust a bit more so i can be more accurate.......it might be broken in as much as it is going to get. Next time I will have my three stage programmable shift light shinning in my eyes so I can do a better job in this department, I cannot read the tach well with my glasses on.
Anyway, if you use a car hard, I believe in running the best fluids you can afford and change them when you should.
I also will install a much bigger oil filter when I figure out how to get the stock oil/water cooler off and mount the Mocal Tstat plate and have room for a bigger filter. I use the Wix filters, great quality and value.
I went with Castrol SRF brake fluid, $$$, as it is the best and I use my brakes hard and had not yet installed brake ducts. I heated up the brakes enough to smell them at the end of some straights but always had solid brakes, it was a wise choice. Many race teams use it a whole season, in the end it is not that expensive since lasts longer that the others quite often.
The shifting was super smooth, accurate, LSD worked amazingly well with it.....
I am using the stock type engine oil for now but will switch to the German Castrol when I go full synthetic and might just use the blend one on the next change as well.
I think after the pounding my engine took at the track, 150 minutes worth of full throttle and full brakes, more on the throttle of course, hit the rev limited a few times, etc.....downshifted a bit early, I need to hear the exhaust a bit more so i can be more accurate.......it might be broken in as much as it is going to get. Next time I will have my three stage programmable shift light shinning in my eyes so I can do a better job in this department, I cannot read the tach well with my glasses on.
Anyway, if you use a car hard, I believe in running the best fluids you can afford and change them when you should.
I also will install a much bigger oil filter when I figure out how to get the stock oil/water cooler off and mount the Mocal Tstat plate and have room for a bigger filter. I use the Wix filters, great quality and value.
Nothing "meets" Ford specs. WSS-M2C200-D2 is a weird spec oil that Ford called a "dual clutch transmission fluid." It's been around for a while and yet the only other oil that meets that specific spec is an old Volvo oil (probably from when Ford had a stake in Volvo).
My comment around the cold weather applicable had to do with the viscosity index. Higher VIs typically mean better performance in cold weather. Stock manual transmission fluids are typically designed around high VIs so that cars around the world can be sold with the same stock fluid. Aftermarket, synthetic MT fluids typically have lower VIs as a trade off for better high stress/temperature applications. I believe this is where Redline oils have taken some criticism.
Anyways, the specs and reviews seem to indicate that this would be a good alternative/upgrade to the stock oil. But McRib's original disclaimer was YMMV...
My comment around the cold weather applicable had to do with the viscosity index. Higher VIs typically mean better performance in cold weather. Stock manual transmission fluids are typically designed around high VIs so that cars around the world can be sold with the same stock fluid. Aftermarket, synthetic MT fluids typically have lower VIs as a trade off for better high stress/temperature applications. I believe this is where Redline oils have taken some criticism.
Anyways, the specs and reviews seem to indicate that this would be a good alternative/upgrade to the stock oil. But McRib's original disclaimer was YMMV...
Thread Starter
#9
I have had improved mid thirty degree weather shifting when first starting out and have used it up to shifting to 5th at redline on an all out track event after 25 minutes of pounding on the car. Absolutely love this lube
I have not used the stock lube at a track event so cannot say how it worked there.
I have not used the stock lube at a track event so cannot say how it worked there.
Thread Starter
#12
I got mine on Amazon Prime for a great price shipped 2-day.
It takes either 1.7 or 1.8 bottles, I forget which one.
I do not bother torquing such things, just nice and snug so it can seal and not back out. the bolt has ridges that make their own seal on the case.
It takes either 1.7 or 1.8 bottles, I forget which one.
I do not bother torquing such things, just nice and snug so it can seal and not back out. the bolt has ridges that make their own seal on the case.
Thread Starter
#15
Real easy without a pump, mine is so old it might not work anyway
I have clear funnel with a valve and screen on the output, clear hose out of that.
I tie it in place, fill it, turn the connector to let it flow.
On the second bottle I use the markings on the funnel and add what is needed to top it off per the specs for the transaxle.
On most trans, diffs, transaxles, I just fill until it overflows a bit but I measured this one.
I have clear funnel with a valve and screen on the output, clear hose out of that.
I tie it in place, fill it, turn the connector to let it flow.
On the second bottle I use the markings on the funnel and add what is needed to top it off per the specs for the transaxle.
On most trans, diffs, transaxles, I just fill until it overflows a bit but I measured this one.
I know this is a Motul thread but I have a few unused quarts of AMSOIL Manual Transmission and Gear Lube 75w-90 that was for my 2011 GT with the MT-82 that I didn't use before I sold it. Has anyone tried the AMSOIL in the FiST? It worked great in the Stang. Mogul is great stuff. I just don't want this AMSOIL to go to waste.
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