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Bluedrank

Active member
Messages
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Location
Winter Park
Is it a straight opening from the bottom to the filter?
His stock box is modified with a hole at the bottom. The stock box is just super long with no vent at the bottom. I think it's to help with sound reduction. It's long and stupid. Take yours out and have a look, it's easy to remove.

The ST200 airbox is a plastic version of the mountune airbox, so better. I too got one from Ron at Whoosh Motorsports and would highly recommend it.
 


Messages
22
Likes
7
Location
Modena
I'm watching for a Forge intake...but i don't know if it's better the cone filter, or the mountune/OEM air box. Yes i know that cone filter bring more air, but is too much for our 1.6?
The stock air box is too big and usefull, so i watch for this and eventually have a re-map.
 


Messages
17
Likes
3
Location
Las Cruces
I've been reading through many pages and can't quite find an answer to my question. Does the OEM tubing really need to be replaced with one of the full intake kits or is a short ram just as effective if I am looking into getting a stage 2 tune and eventually stage 3. I see that mountune has a drop-in with what looks like a tube of some sort and a box. Just need a little clearing up on the information. TIA.
 


Rivy

Member
Messages
145
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30
Location
San Diego
I've been reading through many pages and can't quite find an answer to my question. Does the OEM tubing really need to be replaced with one of the full intake kits or is a short ram just as effective if I am looking into getting a stage 2 tune and eventually stage 3. I see that mountune has a drop-in with what looks like a tube of some sort and a box. Just need a little clearing up on the information. TIA.
Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but all you need for stage 2 (as far as intake goes) is a filter. A short ram won't improve upon what you have from the factory and a full intake isn't really necessary at stage 2. A full intake won't hurt, just not needed at that point. To be honest, it doesn't really seem like you absolutely have to have one at stage 3.

I may grab the ST200 box at some point, but I plan to try stage 3 with a filter, intercooler, downpipe and RMM.
 


Messages
17
Likes
3
Location
Las Cruces
That's pretty much what I was getting from reading as well, thanks for the reply my man. Good luck with the build.
 


Ford ST

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,925
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3,065
Location
Pleasant Garden
Just got a 2018 Fiesta ST but can't find any cold air intakes for 2018.... does anyone know if 2017 versions will fit on my 2018 FiST?
2016 and later models there was a change in the emissions system. 2015 and under have 1 hose on the intake tube. 2016 and later have 2 on the intake tube. For some reason companies decided not to make updated intakes for this, and just came up with a adapter kit. Some guys say they get check engine lights from it, and some don't. I would just put a ST200 airbox on it no modification necessary to the hoses.

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SPhilli911

Active member
Messages
612
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818
Location
Hartford, CT, USA
Maybe unlikely considering the small space, but does anyone have pictures of where the intake meets the turbo? I'm having an issue that I am trying to solve, something is loose down there below where the Cobb intake clamps on that I can't see clearly. Seems to be missing bolts and air is escaping before the turbo. Can't seem to find any helpful pictures and until I can get a better look or bring the car in, I'm in the dark. Posted in the maintenance thread as well with no luck.
 


Messages
277
Likes
108
Location
Camden
Maybe unlikely considering the small space, but does anyone have pictures of where the intake meets the turbo? I'm having an issue that I am trying to solve, something is loose down there below where the Cobb intake clamps on that I can't see clearly. Seems to be missing bolts and air is escaping before the turbo. Can't seem to find any helpful pictures and until I can get a better look or bring the car in, I'm in the dark. Posted in the maintenance thread as well with no luck.
Here is a diagram d9b58c427a46c07ca40839ee41f91c8f.jpeg

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SPhilli911

Active member
Messages
612
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818
Location
Hartford, CT, USA
Thank you! I think it must be bolt 12 there, below where the Cobb intake connects. The Ford Parts website lists it as HS1 dunno if it's part of the entire intake assembly part number 9C623. Suppose I'll just stop by the dealer to see if they can give me some replacement. Thanks again.
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/tube-air-cleaner-intake-6464813-1
 


Messages
101
Likes
23
Location
Oklahoma City
Thank you! I think it must be bolt 12 there, below where the Cobb intake connects. The Ford Parts website lists it as HS1 dunno if it's part of the entire intake assembly part number 9C623. Suppose I'll just stop by the dealer to see if they can give me some replacement. Thanks again.
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/tube-air-cleaner-intake-6464813-1
I just did this on Saturday. Where the crossover pipe meets the turbo inlet, just above the index #12 there is a hose clamp. That is what you remove, not #10.

Picture for reference.


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Messages
101
Likes
23
Location
Oklahoma City
Thank you! I think it must be bolt 12 there, below where the Cobb intake connects. The Ford Parts website lists it as HS1 dunno if it's part of the entire intake assembly part number 9C623. Suppose I'll just stop by the dealer to see if they can give me some replacement. Thanks again.
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/tube-air-cleaner-intake-6464813-1
I just did this on Saturday. Where the crossover pipe meets the turbo inlet, just above the index #12 there is a hose clamp. That is what you remove, not #10.

Picture for reference. It starts at the second hose clamp. The coupler will only go down so far. Just make sure you have a fine tooth ratchet to preserve your sanity.

Picture is sideways and I'm on mobile.


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SPhilli911

Active member
Messages
612
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818
Location
Hartford, CT, USA
I just did this on Saturday. Where the crossover pipe meets the turbo inlet, just above the index #12 there is a hose clamp. That is what you remove, not #10.

Picture for reference. It starts at the second hose clamp. The coupler will only go down so far. Just make sure you have a fine tooth ratchet to preserve your sanity.
Right, and I have the Cobb intake in correctly, my issue is lower down in the system below the 2 clamps supplied by Cobb with the intake. It looks like 3 bolts (labeled "12" in the picture above) connect the inlet to the turbo. Somehow I lost 2 of the 3 bolts. It's very difficult to reach. It's not part of the Cobb install, which is why I'm wondering how I lost the bolts at all... only guess is the intake wasn't in secure and it caused the bolts to back out. [paranoid]

Edit: Going to post a link to a maintenance thread of mine for info. Although it was probably user error with the installation, the Cobb intake potentially vibrated enough, or wasn't secure enough, to cause bolts to come lose on the intake to turbo inlet tube. Total speculation, it may not have been the intake though I can't think of any reason these particular bolts would ever come loose in normal driving over 2 years.
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/17291-Intake-to-turbo-missing-bolts
 


Last edited:
Messages
166
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32
Location
asdfsafd
2016 and later models there was a change in the emissions system. 2015 and under have 1 hose on the intake tube. 2016 and later have 2 on the intake tube. For some reason companies decided not to make updated intakes for this, and just came up with a adapter kit. Some guys say they get check engine lights from it, and some don't.
Regarding this. Does anyone know what the revised evap supposed to do? Does this have any effect on oil blow-by? I'm not sure, if that's where the PCV dumps dirty air or not.
 


danbfree

3000 Post Club
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Location
Tigard, Oregon, USA
Regarding this. Does anyone know what the revised evap supposed to do? Does this have any effect on oil blow-by? I'm not sure, if that's where the PCV dumps dirty air or not.
It seems like it gives a better chance for actual oil to be trapped and drained back to the crankcase vs. being passed through on to the intake... almost like "catch can lite" or something... this is a great question, not sure if you asked this on the Reddit FiST sub, but it would be nice if someone directly knowledgeable in this area could confirm...
 


danbfree

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Tigard, Oregon, USA
So with a hole being cut in the radiator shroud for a Big Mouth install anyway, is there any reason for those of us not in a flood zone cut a section out in front of the factory snorkel even if not installing a Big Mouth? I noticed how the factory snorkel is sealed off and only gets heated air from the radiator, have to assume that's just manufacturer paranoia for those in flood zones, I don't get it... so I cut a hole there and it seems to help my charge temps quite a bit...
 


Quisp

1000 Post Club
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404
Location
Davenport
It seems like it gives a better chance for actual oil to be trapped and drained back to the crankcase vs. being passed through on to the intake... almost like "catch can lite" or something... this is a great question, not sure if you asked this on the Reddit FiST sub, but it would be nice if someone directly knowledgeable in this area could confirm...
Its for gas tank fumes.
 


anticon

Active member
Messages
603
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531
Location
Sherwood
Well I think my plan is to keep the stock airbox, drop in a filter and then upgrade the tubing all the way to the turbo. Then if I have trouble with heatsoak I will upgrade the intercooler. This is what I have determined after reading this entire thread and the other intake thread, along with dizzy's intake test, and the fresh air intake thoughts.

I am looking for the best value for performance and I don't want to cut any holes in anything.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Premium Account
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Location
Rich-fizzield
Well I think my plan is to keep the stock airbox, drop in a filter and then upgrade the tubing all the way to the turbo. Then if I have trouble with heatsoak I will upgrade the intercooler. This is what I have determined after reading this entire thread and the other intake thread, along with dizzy's intake test, and the fresh air intake thoughts.

I am looking for the best value for performance and I don't want to cut any holes in anything.

Buy the ST200 Box from Ron [MENTION=337]whoosh[/MENTION]....great piece! [hihi]
 


danbfree

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Tigard, Oregon, USA
Well I think my plan is to keep the stock airbox, drop in a filter and then upgrade the tubing all the way to the turbo. Then if I have trouble with heatsoak I will upgrade the intercooler. This is what I have determined after reading this entire thread and the other intake thread, along with dizzy's intake test, and the fresh air intake thoughts.

I am looking for the best value for performance and I don't want to cut any holes in anything.
Not sure why you're worried about cutting holes in something that 100% can't be seen and is unnecessary unless you live in a flood zone if that means a direct path for fresh intake air... that's pretty much the only thing that will make much difference on stock turbo, even all that intake testing included them all having that Velossa Tech Big Mouth snorkel installed... so if anything the snorkel and drop in are the best place to start, as changing out induction tubing alone will only help suck hot air in faster unless the snorkel or at the very least the hole for it is cut out to allow direct fresh air to get in... Check out this pic to see how clean it can look when it's all installed right:
 




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