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CLOSED: Cyborg TurboCharger * NOT AVAILABLE *

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Sekred

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So looking at two timing tools for the camshafts and the advance/retard drive gears, the cams have no key ways on the ends for location?. Are they a tapered fit to these drive gears?
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #1,182
So looking at two timing tools for the camshafts and the advance/retard drive gears, the cams have no key ways on the ends for location?. Are they a tapered fit to these drive gears?
They are not keyed in any way. I think its a tapper fit.
The crank timing belt cog
And serp belt pulleys are
The same way
 


DHM1

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Those are the wildest piston crowns I have ever seen. Do all of us have those, or just you?
Everyone does! The central di like ours have similar pistons to a Diesel engine



Here is a stock piston and our DHM forged unit next to each other

Russ
 


Siestarider

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Atp hot pipe bov tube and mistumoto cold pipe sound symposer tube
I was dreaming about wild forged piston crowns, and you just had to dump old pipe fragments on. But it is your thread, lol. Thanks for diversion and elucidation Russ, SS needed a little pick up.
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Cyborg upgraded stock Turbocharger system


Before they get welded and drilled for boost references ( and/or meth nozzles )

And that takes care of the cv axle stay bolt i sawed threw
 


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What did you use to hollow out the grill, and is the shiny black plastic scuffed at all or does it still look good?
 


RAAMaudio

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I decided on the CP-E cold side pipe as it has no "poser" tube and a welded in bung for WMI:)

Only thing I did not like was it could of been a bit less angle in the bends near the oil filter so I could still run a big filter, had to go back to stock size:(

My design would of had one less bend in it and cleared the filter easier but I had no time or place to fab it up.

Still like the CP-E a lot though:)
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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I used a drill ( 11/64 I think ). A 4 1/2" grinder with a paddle wheel that is 80 grit.
Then used a dremel with a sanding wheel to fine cut some of the small spaces and emblem. Then used a pocket knife from the back of the combs to sort of shave any left overs off. Then hand sanded the backside with "anti-slip grip tape", lol. Which is like 5 grit, lol. Its like twice as gritty as the stuff you put on a skate board.

Then I used an industrial pressure washer with a "turbo nozzle" to really blow off anything on it.

Its pretty clean now. It looks pretty stock from the front. Of course the back looks sanded/coarse. But only bugs will ever see thay end.

That being said... It was a sucky job. Drilling holes helpped give the melted plastic somewhere to go instead of clumping up next to the comb next to it.

I'll tell ya this... I wouldn't be eating honey-combs anytime soon


Cyborg turbo, TBE, panda TR6 intercooler, drop in green filter.
245whp 293Tq V-dyno
13.3@104mph
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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The grill is definitely a pain, but super easy work compared to all the brain surgery you are doing with the car!


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My GF comes by the shop Sunday and says, "My dryer broke... Idk what to do with it".
I say, "No prob, let me deal with this car and I'll take it apart and order parts for it".
She says, "your not a dryer mechanic, shouldn't I call an appliance mechanic?".
I laughed and said, "baby.... Its a drum that spins and pumps heat in and out, its not rocket science.... That turd on jack stands next to you.... THAT's pretty close to rocket science".

I'll let yall know if the dryer kicks my ass, lol.
 


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For what it's worth, the dryer issue(s) is usually just the timer or thermostat or safety switch on the door.. I've paid less that $20 for any one of those pieces fixing dryers for family and friends...

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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For what it's worth, the dryer issue(s) is usually just the timer or thermostat or safety switch on the door.. I've paid less that $20 for any one of those pieces fixing dryers for family and friends...

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
This dryer isn't spinning the drum. The drum will spin... But its a little more drag than I think it should be doing it by hand... Other wise, the dryer works fine. We'll see.
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Today is cylinder head day !!

But first I wanted to thank Russ [MENTION=1098]DHM[/MENTION] for helping me threw a couple "ford ecoboost 1.6L issues" that I feel like are mechanically different than most motors.

I will try to go over them as I progress with assembly. But I'll also need to focus a bit too. But I'll try to share what I've learned.

There ANOTHER special tool that I just found out about last night...

I have to borrow an uber expensive torque wrench today as well...

But just wanted to thank Russ because while I'm doing this completely alone, I'm not alone. And things like that are what makes mechanics like me fearless to do anything.
 


westcoaST

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There is usually a belt attached to a motor which spins the drum. If you're lucky, it came off and needs to be reinstalled. If not, it needs to be replaced. I temporarily fixed one with the wife's pantyhose.
This dryer isn't spinning the drum. The drum will spin... But its a little more drag than I think it should be doing it by hand... Other wise, the dryer works fine. We'll see.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 


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