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CLOSED: Cyborg TurboCharger * NOT AVAILABLE *

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Without any scales on the axis, it is hard to tell what it means, what is the RPM where AFR and engine speed cross?
If you look at the AFR is is completely flat. The variations you see are within .15 of each other. So a swing of 11.61 to 11.76 during that entire pull, it is to showcase no huge lean conditions like most tuners have with upgraded turbos and factory fuel system.
 


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I get that, I just want to know when it spools and if I knew the rpm at that crossing, I could do some off the top of my head extrapolation to figure it out.

If that run starts at 4,000 rpm, spool sucks, if it starts at 1,500 rpm spool is good. Without scales I can't tell the difference unless you give me a hint.
 


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Great job Adam !! 26psi to redline? I LIKE IT !!!
Who's car is it?

I was thinking today.... Since our coolant temps rise so fast, and the car does loose power because of it, I wonder if any of the guys going to upgraded rad will see power rise....? Random thought.

I had no doubts you could tune the fuel Adam :)
It's mine..
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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I get that, I just want to know when it spools and if I knew the rpm at that crossing, I could do some off the top of my head extrapolation to figure it out.

If that run starts at 4,000 rpm, spool sucks, if it starts at 1,500 rpm spool is good. Without scales I can't tell the difference unless you give me a hint.
His maybe better... But to generalize... I normally get 20psi at 3,000rpm and 28psi at 4,400rpm.

As for anything else... Idk. Lag is never an issue, I'll say that. Having a 1.6L at 2500rpm is sometimes a motor power issue, but not really a boost issue, lol.
 


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Once Adam tells me the tuning is done I'll get it on a dyno. Currently the VD has it at 261whp and 265wtq. That's 30 less from SS cyborg but it's fitting since I'm at a higher altitude on E40 only, no meth. Haven't needed to turn on auxiliary fueling yet either (probably run out of map first)
 


twolf

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Sourskittle, you should do it just so you have a target to shoot for with your tunes.

If Adam does a really good job, you will sell more Cyborgs too.
I 10,000% agree with this. If this had more data, it could be the difference between me doing this and a quickspool kit.
 


frankiefiesta

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I will have some info for my cyborg being tuned by DHM in a few weeks. Best v-dyno so far after a few revisions was 256/277 on 93

Will also get the car actually dyno'd to compare to my v-dyno's.. Loving the cyborg so far though
 


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Sourskittle

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256/277 def beats the nuts off my 93oct numbers !! But I always gave up and switched to eth blends, lol.

I'd say I'm the oldest cyborg user, other than Rick's/raamaudio turbo that was the very first one ( that is still in service btw ).

Joszer is running one at Laguna Seca pretty regular with no issues as well.

We have had two issues so far. #1 was with Issacc/Hijinx turbo where a local oil change place over filled his oil and it backed the turbo up with oil.

The 2nd issue was what looks to be a leaky oil ring, but we have not gotten it back yet, I sent the customer a super clean core last Monday to swap on while we take a look at it. It was still running strong, just had a little smoke. But besides that, every turbo I've done has been extremely reliable.

Mine has been punished likely more than anyones and it was still kicking before the cylinder head failure.

In case anyone is wondering... You have to buy over $200 in ford special tools to correctly remove and install a cylinder head, and that's before the head bolts and gaskets etc
 


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Sourskittle

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You only lose power because timing is reduced. Timing is only reduced if you allow timing to be reduced if you are picking up what I'm putting down.

I also make changes to all cooling tables, not a single one goes untouched.
Yes sir. I got ya. I know exactly what tables your talking about ( that for trying to help out ). The reason I never changed them is because I figured ford had some kind of model that showed they needed to reduce power at those temps. Knowing what I know now ( that ford is mostly full of shit when it comes to engine temps and what it can/can't handle ). I should def look into modding those table. Thanx again for the heads up and reminding me of that :)
 


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I get that, I just want to know when it spools and if I knew the rpm at that crossing, I could do some off the top of my head extrapolation to figure it out.

If that run starts at 4,000 rpm, spool sucks, if it starts at 1,500 rpm spool is good. Without scales I can't tell the difference unless you give me a hint.
The picture was only focusing on the AFR, if you wanted a spool graph all you had to do was ask ;).



Spool is definitely way better on the IWG versions of this turbo. EWG sounds awesome, but it does hinder spool a hair and most cars have been having weird boost issues up top but I got that dialed in.

Dusty's car has to work a little harder due to it's 12.5 barometric pressure from elevation. If he was at 14.7 baro, he would be making near 280-290 for sure.
 


DHM1

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I get that, I just want to know when it spools and if I knew the rpm at that crossing, I could do some off the top of my head extrapolation to figure it out.

If that run starts at 4,000 rpm, spool sucks, if it starts at 1,500 rpm spool is good. Without scales I can't tell the difference unless you give me a hint.
Spool is good. This is [MENTION=952]frankiefiesta[/MENTION] with the EWG set up on 93oct on the 3rd revision



Russ
 


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Time to change WG springs and upgrade the map(s) sensors...

I like the nice flat torque curve, over 250wtq of torque from 3000rpms to 5200rpms, makes for fun daily driver...
 


Siestarider

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I was determined to set a new pb at PBIR before mounting my Cyborg. Now I have failed twice, once on worn out BFG SC-2's, once on brand new Rival S. So hell with it, I am mounting Cyborg and getting it tuned before next track day. Tired of Z06's blowing by me on back straight, then clogging up the turns ahead of me. Wasting too many hot laps on stock turbo.
 


Dib

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Trying to search, but not coming up with an answer to a question:

When you switch over to the EWG, how is boost controlled? Would I need to purchase a boost controller?
 


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Sourskittle

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Trying to search, but not coming up with an answer to a question:

When you switch over to the EWG, how is boost controlled? Would I need to purchase a boost controller?
No sir. We re-use the factory boost control solenoid and the factory ecu is very capable of controlling boost :)

I do like to run a boost source to the top hat of the wastegate and that changes the boost control strategy in the tuning a bit, but it also improves over all response.
 


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