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CLOSED: Cyborg TurboCharger * NOT AVAILABLE *
- Thread starter Sourskittle
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OP
Thread Starter
#704
Thread Starter
#704
That actually has not been proven or disproven on this motor/platform. Besides making sense in many ways, its been proven by shops/dyno operators on other platforms like the wrx and srt4 to make between 15whp and 40whp depends on mods ( and that's with an open atmosphere dump. If your going to tie it back into the downpipe or catback, its prob not worth the cost/trouble ).
Feel free to do your own research and see if you can find any credible source that shows anyone losing power or not gaining anything from switching from an "apples" to "apples plus external wastegate" setup.
I'm moving to an external ASAP, but customers come first.
Feel free to do your own research and see if you can find any credible source that shows anyone losing power or not gaining anything from switching from an "apples" to "apples plus external wastegate" setup.
I'm moving to an external ASAP, but customers come first.
Age is just a number 
haha
You could run a catless DP and a well resonated cat back. I went this route on my old car (civic si) I always got love and props for being able to make a Honda sound deep and not riced out. I used an apexi noir muffler. It's an amazing product
hahaYou could run a catless DP and a well resonated cat back. I went this route on my old car (civic si) I always got love and props for being able to make a Honda sound deep and not riced out. I used an apexi noir muffler. It's an amazing product
Pretty cool... I'm doing the samething on Saturday nights as my dad was doing 35 years ago...
Building "studs"
Building "studs"
Forgive me but I read some posts somewhere about heat wraps... Do they actually contribute to corrosion or carbon leeching or manifolds cracking? Some classic car forum I stumbled on when looking up blankets and heat shield and wraps basically said only do heatshield. Given that I know nothing of this subject and you are wrapping these, is heat wrapping preferable? If you are doing a build for reliability first, is your wrap and blanket setup best?
OP
Thread Starter
#716
Thread Starter
#716
Cyborg upgraded stock Turbocharger system
Well, what ever you read was correct.... Only.... It doesn't apply to our cars.
Our cars come stock with some really nice cast stainless manifolds. Which means... Its really hard to get them to rust or corrode. Also means the chance of them ever cracking is REALLY slim. Once you shave them down and smooth the insides out like I do, its pretty much just not gonna happen. These are not your DSM/SVO/SRT4 type inconal cast iron manifolds. Even if they were..... I'd still wrap them, lol. If they were those older cheaper manifolds, I could prob port a turbo setup in 4.5 hours TOTAL, and I'd use 1/2 as many bits. This stainless stuff is wicked. I gave a local buddy ( secretsquirrel ) a manifold and turbine housing to port himself FOR FREE since I had a spare core. He gave them back like 2.5 months later. They were barely scratched, and he said, "I sat down two different times and tried to port these things, they are too hard and its gonna take too long, you can have them back", lol.
The turbine housing is the same stainless cast.
Also, if these manifolds were not cast stainless, I prob wouldn't weld external wastegate ports on them, but because its stainless, it welds 1,000,000% better. If they were cast inconal iron, I'd weld one on for my car, but prob wouldn't trust it enough to sell to anyone else.
But on older cars, it does hold the heat in and CAN cause issues. Honestly though, its normally worth the trade off, even on those older cars. I mean... Name a older turbo car that has a super expensive stock turbo manifold.... I'm going to use a normal cast volvo turbine housing on my car sooner or later, and I won't think twice about wrapping it because a replacement housing is $50 used or $150 brand new and it would likely take 5-10 years for that to happen. How cheap will a stock fist manifold and/or turbo be in 10 years ? They sell for $350 right now and they are pretty new, so the benefit def out weighs the cost, and again, I don't think the fist will have a cost. These manifolds are AWESOME, its just a shame they don't fit like they should from the factory, lol.
But your def not the first one to ask about that, but most people don't realize these are stainless. I didn't realize it until I went to port mine. Then I put a magnet on it, "I'll be danged, its stainless".
Well, what ever you read was correct.... Only.... It doesn't apply to our cars.
Our cars come stock with some really nice cast stainless manifolds. Which means... Its really hard to get them to rust or corrode. Also means the chance of them ever cracking is REALLY slim. Once you shave them down and smooth the insides out like I do, its pretty much just not gonna happen. These are not your DSM/SVO/SRT4 type inconal cast iron manifolds. Even if they were..... I'd still wrap them, lol. If they were those older cheaper manifolds, I could prob port a turbo setup in 4.5 hours TOTAL, and I'd use 1/2 as many bits. This stainless stuff is wicked. I gave a local buddy ( secretsquirrel ) a manifold and turbine housing to port himself FOR FREE since I had a spare core. He gave them back like 2.5 months later. They were barely scratched, and he said, "I sat down two different times and tried to port these things, they are too hard and its gonna take too long, you can have them back", lol.
The turbine housing is the same stainless cast.
Also, if these manifolds were not cast stainless, I prob wouldn't weld external wastegate ports on them, but because its stainless, it welds 1,000,000% better. If they were cast inconal iron, I'd weld one on for my car, but prob wouldn't trust it enough to sell to anyone else.
But on older cars, it does hold the heat in and CAN cause issues. Honestly though, its normally worth the trade off, even on those older cars. I mean... Name a older turbo car that has a super expensive stock turbo manifold.... I'm going to use a normal cast volvo turbine housing on my car sooner or later, and I won't think twice about wrapping it because a replacement housing is $50 used or $150 brand new and it would likely take 5-10 years for that to happen. How cheap will a stock fist manifold and/or turbo be in 10 years ? They sell for $350 right now and they are pretty new, so the benefit def out weighs the cost, and again, I don't think the fist will have a cost. These manifolds are AWESOME, its just a shame they don't fit like they should from the factory, lol.
But your def not the first one to ask about that, but most people don't realize these are stainless. I didn't realize it until I went to port mine. Then I put a magnet on it, "I'll be danged, its stainless".
Send me some shavings and I'll verify the alloy for you. Most likely it is Inconel, which is not steel, but nickel based. It is also non magnetic. You can weld up both Inconel and austentic stainless steel without problems. We do it all the time in aerospace welding. What filler are you using to weld the exhaust? Neither Inconel nor stainless steel is prone to cracking, like some cast steels.
OP
Thread Starter
#718
Thread Starter
#718
I almost took a pic of the giant pile of shavings from that manifold tonight, lol, but like most my porting pictures, I didn't think the real size of it would come through in pics.
I don't personally weld them, I'm not a skilled tig welder, I pay a certified welder to weld them, but I can ask.
I ported quiet a few SRT4 manifolds, and they were NOT this mean, lol. I've done dsm's and sr20 manifolds too. Nothing I've see is as wicked as this stuff.
What ever it is... It does shift. Those downpipe bolt holes that are always causing people head aches, everyone of those things I run a tap through are no longer threaded. I'm pretty sure its a stainless cast alloy type stuff.
Next manifold and turbine housing I do, I'll send you samples, lmk how much you need and where to send it to
I don't personally weld them, I'm not a skilled tig welder, I pay a certified welder to weld them, but I can ask.
I ported quiet a few SRT4 manifolds, and they were NOT this mean, lol. I've done dsm's and sr20 manifolds too. Nothing I've see is as wicked as this stuff.
What ever it is... It does shift. Those downpipe bolt holes that are always causing people head aches, everyone of those things I run a tap through are no longer threaded. I'm pretty sure its a stainless cast alloy type stuff.
Next manifold and turbine housing I do, I'll send you samples, lmk how much you need and where to send it to
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