DIY, sealed CAI using parts on hand, low buget, superb performance.......

[RAAMaudio]

I had to pull the DP today as the heat wrap got some oil on it and it was smoking a bit it much so I took it off to unwrap it and clean the oil out then put it back on, in the mean time I started my CAI and only a bit more work it will be done

NACA duct in grill into lined brake cooling duct hose, both extra materials left over from a race car project, this will not fit with the window washer res in place, I am putting a small one in the rear of the car. NACA duct and been modded before, hose and it were not worth selling.

3", $2 or so port tube for subwoofers, I ordered 4, two for the brake duct in fog light location mod and one for the CAI and a Spare, so far I spent around $2.

5 Liter German beer keg, perfect fit, I was going to heat wrap it all but if I do any wrap I will leave the logo showing no cost, it was in my basment a few years, bought for the beer, not the keg.

AEM dry filter, bought for a different project years ago, putting to good use. It might be worth $25 after shipping so the total is $27. It fits perfectly into the keg, just have to secure it, no seal needed.

3" aluminum tubing and silicone connector, left over from a turbo kit I built years ago, might be worth $20, total now is $47.

3" to 2.5" silicone reducer, as above, worth maybe $3, total now is $50.

Hose clamps, all from old projects, all used, resale value, practically nothing but lets make it $5, total now is $55.

Connector for tube from valve cover, hose if needed, scape stuff laying around, $0

MAF adaptor, Ebay, $19, new total is $74.

I wanted to use a 180 bend down to the turbo but it will not fit at the moment, later when the option to have the housing opened up and a tapered 3" to compressor wheel is available it would then fit, I have a left over one I will keep.

For now I have a 2.5" aluminum elbow and 2.5" to 2" silicone reducer that mounts to a 2" fabricated turbo inlet I built, this is still a very good flowing setup but the ultimate will be with the tapered insert right to the compressor, cost for what I do have in use, $6

Total invested, true sealed CAI, grill to turbo inlet, $80

I will post more pics as I finish this up tomorrow.

 

[94Gt5.0]

Not sure if I love it or hate it haha, looks like a fun project though!

 

[RAAMaudio]

It is actually real race car inspired, just used the beer keg because it was free and it works and a bit of fun using a German beer keg from a beer I rather enjoyed

I am temped to paint it and going to heat treat the tubing close to the engine....this is a pure performance design and far better than anything aftermarket but the beer keg color is wrong, just like like the idea of it a bit because it is a German beer, a great one for being a lighter beer.

The whole intake to turbo is also very low weight, probably lower than the whole stock system.

I am going to seal off the stock inlet above the radiator, will not be needed, except if I directed it down to the oil filter, intake pipe, oil cooler lines, etc...but everything is already heat treated there.

 

[Harvick]

haha thats really low budget. Does the beer brand make a difference?

 

[RAAMaudio]

The car is mostly German Engineered so it must, I guess

 

[JPGC]

I love it and the mini keg is bada$$. That sucker looks like it will flow too!

 

[RAAMaudio]

I just thought of this, I have more 3" tubing, a 90 and a bit more would fit but in reality more joints so more turbulence, the brake duct hose is lined so pretty smooth and not joints.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Original plan was to have the aluminum sections, small hose connetions and the MAF adapter TIG welded but that is pretty expensive and a waiting time locally, I can MIG well and have a spool gun for aluminum but no experience and a spool gun is not the best tool for nice little welds..So, I figured out a way to skip the welding, it will look more DIY but will work and have long term reliability so I think I will just do it and see how I like it

 

[BRGT350]

ha, that is bad ass! The aluminum tubing from the turbo to the keg (odd saying keg when talking about intakes) looks fantastic. I keep hoping somebody will make a section of aluminum tubing to replace the factory rubber between the turbo inlet and rubber flex tube.

I started gathering tubing and was about to get the NACA duct on order to run the hose from the upper grill to the airbox when I realized that it won't work with the washer bottle in place.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Thanks

You might be able to make it work if you move some wiring out of the way, maybe trim some parts in the area, it would be well worth it.

I moved some wiring but I was already moving things around, relooming, etc...so it was a simple procedure for me.

I wish the bend in the brake duct tubing was less severe, I might replace it as I have more tubing, to see if I can make it less sharp.

 

[BoostBumps]

Gotta give you props for creativity...The keg did made me chuckle a bit and smile!

And good luck with your continued efforts!

 

[RAAMaudio]

Thanks, I had been looking for prefabbed ABS boxes, considering fabricating an aluminum one, etc, when I came across this in the basement and thought, HEY, I have seen round filter housings on plenty of race cars so I checked it out and had a filter on hand that fits perfectly. I also called to ensure the AEM would flow enough air as not listed on the site, they are owned by K&N, he said no worries ever on the 1.6 St no matter how much boost I ran and he really liked the keg idea.

Since the filter is flat on top and the air will hit it directly in the middle I asked if I should put a cone on the top of the filter and he said not needed but I might anyway if I find the right part to make it from and a way to ensure it stays in place.

He also said I did not need to shield the aluminum tubing but I think I will at least on the bottom side, ABS as in the factory unit is much better than aluminum and Ford did it. Note however I am considered a bit of an expert in automotive sound deadening and the product they used is more for that than thermal, I deal in thermal as well.

I have done quite a bit of thermal work on other areas and did the shifter cables and brake lines near the DP yesterday with fiberglass/aluminum, 1/8" thick, and have plenty left and a bunch of thin material which is more just a FG cloth with aluminum. I might use the thicker material on the bottom and sides near the DP and then the thinner stuff on top as well as the bottom and sides of the keg. It would add little weight and certainly reduce any heat soak.

After 46 years of modding cars, trucks, trailers, houses, tools, and many many hobbies, work experiences, etc....I long ago concluded to check as many sources as possible and then DIMW, do it my way, and the vast majority of the time I am correct. Experience in many things can be used in others, most "experts" have not done what I and others have for decades. I believe we can all do most if not everything if we just do it, learn from mistakes, tackle any and all projects, combine the knowledge, etc....I have been asked hundreds of times how I know so much, simple, I just do it and learn, we all can, and should

 

[westcoaST]

I'm also going to wrap my downpipe, when I get it this week. Any suggestions? Start from bottom and work towards the top?

 

[Hijinx]

That is freaking awesome.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Bottom to top so when gravity coupled with vibration tries to pull it down it will have to slide over what is there, I guess

I also used a few ft of SS welding wire and laced it up in a crossing pattern, I have SS ties but I figured this might be better, when I redo it after the final cleaning I will use the SS ties and maybe SS wire laced as well.

-----------

Had to run errands, etc, need to get to the shop and have some fun!

EG flapper valve just arrived so pulling the turbo to port the WG and turbine outlet area.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Done, except mounting bracket but the way it sits in so well it barely needs one, I am going to design an ECU, intake mount of some sort, looking for ways to use my dimple dies to make it really cool looking and low weight.

ABS plumbing elbow, thinnest wall 3/4" heater hose, used the intake side elbow into the valve cover, a very tight O-ring fit, MAF mount was drilled, counter sunk, hole then taped into the tubing, slot cut for the MAF, siliconed and snugly screwed down, smoothed inside the tubing, came out even better than expected.

 

[BlueBomber]

There's a fine line between Janky and Genius when you use a beer recepticle somewhere on the car
You never deviate from genius with your improvised stuff.

Very interested to know how it performs!

 

[RAAMaudio]

Thanks, that is quite a complement

The only intake I have seen that just might perform better would be Joe's cowl mount system and it would weigh less and be further back in the car which aids in handling though some of it is higher up.

It would simply be too loud for my needs but a great race unit or for those that like it loud and best performance.

Mine is very low weight, the Keg is thin wall, the shape gives it the strength needed, all the rest of the parts are low weight as well.

If I had no MAF it would flow a bit better but I felt I needed to run it as it must be there for a reason though some do not seem to think so. I have not read anything to convince me yet but I might not of seen everything posted so let me know if you know......

 

[ryst]

If I had no MAF it would flow a bit better but I felt I needed to run it as it must be there for a reason though some do not seem to think so. I have not read anything to convince me yet but I might not of seen everything posted so let me know if you know......

I posted a thread about removing the MAF or if it's used at all in the USDM applications, and Braden from Cobb said that even though the MAF isn't used for air metering *directly*, the USDM version does use the temperature reading from the MAF sensor for speed density tuning calculations.

EDIT: Located the post: http://www.fiestast.org/forum/fiesta-st-performance/1927-remove-maf-3.html#post29875 Looks like, specifically, the IAT is retrieved from the MAF

Hard to find stuff when you can't remember what forum you posted it on

 

[RAAMaudio]

Now I remember reading it, same info, just not sure what was said.....until now, thanks

It would be great to find a temp sensor that would give the right readings and block less airflow and use that instead.

I am sure there are different leads for both so not to hard to figure out the wiring.

With the Internet we do not have to work at figuring things our as much as we used to, most everything has been done and much of it posted, just have to dig in and find it

Thanks!
Rick