I decided that I didn't want to wait for Moroso or Boomba or anyone else to make a plug and play oil catch can. So here is what I did:
Parts ordered:
1. Motorcraft KCV279 PCV Hose $19.94 Rockauto
2. Mishimoto MMOCC-RB Black oil ctch can $84.95 Ebay
3. Fumoto Engine Oil drain Valve (F107N) $29.11 Amazon
4. Two M12 washers $ 0.49 Home Depot
5. Drossbach Split wire loom 1" $ 8.95 Amazon
6. #14 x 3/4" sheet metal screw $ 1.18 Home Depor
67. M6 nut and washer $ 0.89 Home Depot
Total: $145.54
Tools:
1. 3mm Allen wrench
2. 1/4" Drive Socket Set with universal joint
3. Exacto blade
4. Needle nose pliers
5. Small step drill bit
6. Short cordless drill
7. Abrasive disc grinder
8. Teflon tape
9. Spring loaded drill punch
The Mishimoto oil catch can is pretty much complete, except that it has a magnetic oil drain plug. I decided to install the oil catch can on the passenger side strut, so there is not much room to drain the catch can without removing the catch can. Here is what the catch can looks like.
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I replaced the magnetic oil drain plug with a Fumoto F107N oil drain valve.
I placed two 12mm washers on the threads for the fumoto valve. This was done to reduce the number of threads inside of the catch can, to reduce the amount of pooling oil when the catch can is drained. I also slotted the drain with an abrasive disc grinder (Not shown in photo below).
There is a stud sticking out of the passenger side strut, which is a 6mm stud. I used this as one of my mounting points.
This is what the catch can looks like with the Fumoto valve and hose nipples installed.
This is what the oil catch can looks like mocked up.
I punched in the location of the hole for the sheet metal screw for the top of the mounting bracket, then drilled a hole, using the step drill.
The top and bottom of the oil catch can can be removed, by removing the allen head fasteners. Note that the bottom of the oil catch can has silicone sealer to prevent oil from seeping out of these fasteners. I removed both the top and bottom plates of the catch can, so that the hose nipples and the Fumoto valve lever were in locations that I needed them in. The valve lever points to the fire wall, and the top nipples point to the front of the engine bay.
The next step is to remove the existing PCV hose. Careful with the intake side of the hose, as you need to pull the hose, after pushing the clip, and you can catch your hand on the refrigerant freon block. I kept the old hose and cut the Rockauto hose at the location shown with the pen. One end of the hose hooks up to the PCV valve, the other side to the oil catch can.
The other end of the PCV hose is removed from the valve that mates to the intake. I used an exacto blade and a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the hose from the valve nipple. Take the Mishimoto reinforced hose, place the end into boiling hot water, then press the hose over the nipple. I used a hose clamp to make sure there are no leaks, but this is probably overkill, on this side of the hose. Plug this end into the intake. Route this hose along the same general route as the original PCV hose, and secure it to the catch can.
This is what the finished install looks like.
I installed high temp split wire loom over the clear hose to give it that OEM look.
All complete.
Parts ordered:
1. Motorcraft KCV279 PCV Hose $19.94 Rockauto
2. Mishimoto MMOCC-RB Black oil ctch can $84.95 Ebay
3. Fumoto Engine Oil drain Valve (F107N) $29.11 Amazon
4. Two M12 washers $ 0.49 Home Depot
5. Drossbach Split wire loom 1" $ 8.95 Amazon
6. #14 x 3/4" sheet metal screw $ 1.18 Home Depor
67. M6 nut and washer $ 0.89 Home Depot
Total: $145.54
Tools:
1. 3mm Allen wrench
2. 1/4" Drive Socket Set with universal joint
3. Exacto blade
4. Needle nose pliers
5. Small step drill bit
6. Short cordless drill
7. Abrasive disc grinder
8. Teflon tape
9. Spring loaded drill punch
The Mishimoto oil catch can is pretty much complete, except that it has a magnetic oil drain plug. I decided to install the oil catch can on the passenger side strut, so there is not much room to drain the catch can without removing the catch can. Here is what the catch can looks like.
I replaced the magnetic oil drain plug with a Fumoto F107N oil drain valve.
I placed two 12mm washers on the threads for the fumoto valve. This was done to reduce the number of threads inside of the catch can, to reduce the amount of pooling oil when the catch can is drained. I also slotted the drain with an abrasive disc grinder (Not shown in photo below).
There is a stud sticking out of the passenger side strut, which is a 6mm stud. I used this as one of my mounting points.
This is what the catch can looks like with the Fumoto valve and hose nipples installed.
This is what the oil catch can looks like mocked up.
I punched in the location of the hole for the sheet metal screw for the top of the mounting bracket, then drilled a hole, using the step drill.
The top and bottom of the oil catch can can be removed, by removing the allen head fasteners. Note that the bottom of the oil catch can has silicone sealer to prevent oil from seeping out of these fasteners. I removed both the top and bottom plates of the catch can, so that the hose nipples and the Fumoto valve lever were in locations that I needed them in. The valve lever points to the fire wall, and the top nipples point to the front of the engine bay.
The next step is to remove the existing PCV hose. Careful with the intake side of the hose, as you need to pull the hose, after pushing the clip, and you can catch your hand on the refrigerant freon block. I kept the old hose and cut the Rockauto hose at the location shown with the pen. One end of the hose hooks up to the PCV valve, the other side to the oil catch can.
The other end of the PCV hose is removed from the valve that mates to the intake. I used an exacto blade and a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the hose from the valve nipple. Take the Mishimoto reinforced hose, place the end into boiling hot water, then press the hose over the nipple. I used a hose clamp to make sure there are no leaks, but this is probably overkill, on this side of the hose. Plug this end into the intake. Route this hose along the same general route as the original PCV hose, and secure it to the catch can.
This is what the finished install looks like.
I installed high temp split wire loom over the clear hose to give it that OEM look.
All complete.
