So can any of you guys who have done the mod where you drill holes in the box tell me how loud it actually makes it? I know its supposed to enhance the "psssssh" turbo noise. But can you actually hear it in the car with windows up is what i really want to know. Any info or tips on the best way to do it would be appreciated!
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Stock Air Box mod questions
- Thread starter mkm74
- Start date
^^^ Same here. A FoST owner asked me if I have a VTA, if that's of any help. I was skeptical at first, but in combination with Mountunes drop-in and silicone pipe, it's a cheap CAI that's worth the money/time...as long as you're not fording rivers (pun totally unintended, but dealwithitdog.gif). I put some screen door mesh in the bottom of mine to help ward away bugs, litter, etc.
Unfortunately, I didn't start a build thread... For my box, imagine if the air box is upside down. Instead of chopping it off horizontally, I followed the pattern and cut out the bottom vertically. A band saw would have been easier though. For the screen door mesh, I folded it over the bottom of the box and inserted it inside. I plan to go back in with some plastic weld to make sure it stays in place. I also might look into some kind of fabric that I can soak in water repellent.
for those interested in datalogs etc see the "UNLIMITED PLENUM INTAKE" thread.
Personally, i used a 2" round holesaw on the bottom and then mated a 2" ducting coupler and plumbed the ducting into the fender. This looks close to OEM. I then ported out a small 2x3" or so area on the side of the lower airbox that faces the backside of the headlight for more noise than OEM and better flow but without looking hacked up or janky.
Should work GREAT with Cobb unit.
If you're considering the Cobb airbox later hacking off the entire bottom is not a good idea as you'll ruin the entire advantage of the "sealed airbox" type design and drawing from where you are straight down in the engine bay it will be drawing hotter air temps, hence why I ducted.
Just a suggestion and I advise a little bit of caution before you cut the entire bottom half off.
Personally, i used a 2" round holesaw on the bottom and then mated a 2" ducting coupler and plumbed the ducting into the fender. This looks close to OEM. I then ported out a small 2x3" or so area on the side of the lower airbox that faces the backside of the headlight for more noise than OEM and better flow but without looking hacked up or janky.
Should work GREAT with Cobb unit.
If you're considering the Cobb airbox later hacking off the entire bottom is not a good idea as you'll ruin the entire advantage of the "sealed airbox" type design and drawing from where you are straight down in the engine bay it will be drawing hotter air temps, hence why I ducted.
Just a suggestion and I advise a little bit of caution before you cut the entire bottom half off.
As Blue said, I'm guessing you could check that thread. I have datalogs out the wazoo, but none right after I did the mod. I will say this though; it actually does make a difference. And I agree with Blue, chopping half of it off is not a great idea; just the tip is all you need. However, in retrospect, a nice hole in the side with a duct is a pretty good idea.
And yes, there's plenty of intake noise. Love the turbo sound.
And yes, there's plenty of intake noise. Love the turbo sound.
Thanks guys. I wasn't talking about literally cutting it in half but rather opening the bottom. Guess I should refer to some images of the thing since I haven't even removed it from the car yet.
I have a friend with a 3D printer so it might be nice to make a proper ducting hose connector with velocity stack inside, etc.
I'll go check out the suggested threads for details.
I have a friend with a 3D printer so it might be nice to make a proper ducting hose connector with velocity stack inside, etc.
I'll go check out the suggested threads for details.
SEK has done a great job with creating a kind of velocity stack thing. I am only adamant cos a local FiST owner cut the entire bottom half off his... then needed a replacement unit STAT to get another type of intake... Be cautious and don't overdo it is all the advice I have, and be sure to keep your cuts clean for a better look. 
I am only adamant cos a local FiST owner cut the entire bottom half off his... then needed a replacement unit STAT to get another type of intake... Be cautious and don't overdo it is all the advice I have, and be sure to keep your cuts clean for a better look.
I guess it's time I go look at my car and see what the box and stock air snorkel looks like. Seems that no matter what, adding the BPV noise will require cutting holes that open into the engine compartment instead of into sealed ducting which means hot air when not moving... there's no getting around that...
If I'm correct in my thinking the ECU is expecting a certain fixed tolerance of an amount of air. It's not metered as a MAF equipped vehicle would be. So if that volume of air is exceeded on an untuned vehicle I imagine it would go into limp mode.
However, that's all speculation and I could be wrong.
However, that's all speculation and I could be wrong.
Nope.
Car ran fine and all he just freaked out, as he needed it to shoot a video... and the airbox needed to be stock to demonstrate removal of OEM and install of aftermarket intake for a certain TV show
and tracking down an unmodified lower airbox proved to be quite the challenge.
Cutting the box does not appear to cause any sort of running issues.
I cut out the side facing the back of the headlight, at least that way no openings face directly into the engine bay.
charge air temps remain within 5-10 of ambient unless I'm parked running my AC on a 100* day, then i'll get 120 charge temps til I move again
Car ran fine and all he just freaked out, as he needed it to shoot a video... and the airbox needed to be stock to demonstrate removal of OEM and install of aftermarket intake for a certain TV show
and tracking down an unmodified lower airbox proved to be quite the challenge.
Cutting the box does not appear to cause any sort of running issues.
I cut out the side facing the back of the headlight, at least that way no openings face directly into the engine bay.
charge air temps remain within 5-10 of ambient unless I'm parked running my AC on a 100* day, then i'll get 120 charge temps til I move again
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