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Amp and Sub Install

Messages
134
Likes
6
Location
Some where in TX
#1
I have decided that I need a little bass in my music system, no modifications to the stock system, just adding a sub and amp.
I am going to do it myself so that I can get the finish that I want and because where I live I haven't seen any place that would do an install far superior from what I can do so there is no need in paying for it... at least for now.
I will be using:
Subwoofer: Alpine SBR-S8-4

Amplifier: MRV-M500

Speaker level input present in the amplifier but plan on using a line out converter: PAC SNI35, I plan on using both rear speakers for input.

I am going to use a fuse from the fuse-block for the remote turn on and I plan on wiring it so that when the car is turned on the amplifier can turn on and when the car is turned off the amplifier will turn off... to that, I will add an ON and OFF switch so that if I want (for some reason -kids i.e.-) to turn off the amplifier I can do so without having to turn off the stereo.

I used an amp wiring kit SCOSCHE REVOPAK8 and followed the instructions on a previous thread by MKVIIST to bring the power from the battery to the trunk. I already did this step and currently waiting for the amp to be delivered to finish the install.

For speaker wire I will simply use a fairly good quality speaker wire that I purchased in the past from amazon.

I also confirmed that the sub in the trunk still leaves enough space for the kids :p


The sub doesn't fit underneath like in other posts, so this is probably how I am going to install it using industrial strength Velcro


Cheers!
 


iso100

1000 Post Club
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1,500
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135
#2
Curious, if the amp already has line level inputs, what's gained by going with a line level converter?
 


OP
K
Messages
134
Likes
6
Location
Some where in TX
Thread Starter #3
Curious, if the amp already has line level inputs, what's gained by going with a line level converter?
Not much really, only thing I can think of is that I can turn it on and off with a switch in the "remote turn on" with out having to interrupt the main power line from the battery. Aside from that, I can already have the line in if I ever wanted to add an amp for the speakers... nothing else.
 


dyn085

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,434
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820
Location
Vancouver
#4
I've tried explaining to my gf that trips would be quieter with the kids in the hatch, but she never buys off on it. Maybe she just doesn't think they fit...
 


OP
K
Messages
134
Likes
6
Location
Some where in TX
Thread Starter #8
Yeah the sub fits like a glove. Very cool!
It does fit like a glove, it is an Alpine sub that comes ready to plug.
Here is the link to Amazon

I ended up using the speaker level input and I noticed that simply opening the door turns the sub on, so I assume that the speakers receive a minimum amount of signal as soon as the car is awake (for lack of a better term).








It sounds... well... awesome!

I'll more post pictures later in the weekend.

Cheers!
 


Messages
338
Likes
204
Location
Rancho Cucamonga, CA, USA
#9
How did you access the outputs for the amp from the radio? I wouldn't know how to get the radio out of the dash. In the '04 Ranger, it's pretty easy, but I don't see how it's done with the Fiesta ST. Just curious. I bought a Fiesta ST 4 days ago and want to install an amp and sub. Thx.
 


OP
K
Messages
134
Likes
6
Location
Some where in TX
Thread Starter #10
I took the speaker signal from the rear speakers at the pillar between the doors, from there I guided the cables to the trunk under the trim.
If you pull the trim from the pillar on the driver's side, this are the speaker cables the green and white is the positive:



For the passenger side there is a thread called Fiesta ST wiring project
How did you access the outputs for the amp from the radio? I wouldn't know how to get the radio out of the dash. In the '04 Ranger, it's pretty easy, but I don't see how it's done with the Fiesta ST. Just curious. I bought a Fiesta ST 4 days ago and want to install an amp and sub. Thx.
by MKVIIST that has detailed information, I followed this thread to wire the power cable for the amp.

Good luck!
 


Messages
15
Likes
1
Location
Mansfield
#11
were you able to still power the rear speakers with the head unit, or did you have to re-route all power to the speaker level inputs?
in other words, do you T into the speaker wires, or just take them loose from the factory speakers? i've done lots of car audio, but never a line level input where i wanted to retain the factory speakers as well.
sorry, resurrecting an old thread here, but i've got a amp and sub out of my old 4 runner itching to go in the ST :)
 


Messages
336
Likes
49
#12
were you able to still power the rear speakers with the head unit, or did you have to re-route all power to the speaker level inputs?
in other words, do you T into the speaker wires, or just take them loose from the factory speakers? i've done lots of car audio, but never a line level input where i wanted to retain the factory speakers as well.
sorry, resurrecting an old thread here, but i've got a amp and sub out of my old 4 runner itching to go in the ST :)
When you T into the rear speakers nothing changes and it doesn't take any noticeable power away from the rear speakers to send any signal to the line converter/amp. No worries there!
 


Messages
75
Likes
19
Location
Detroit
#13
Not to derail your thread but, if you spend a little bit more and get an Audio Control LC2i it has what they call "accubass". It will bring the bass back that many factory head units stifle as volume increases. Also it creates a line out and it is active so it doesn't just use resistance to match line output.

I'm a recent convert and these things work wonders.
 




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