RAAMaudio ST, street, track, dog hauler, grocery getter, ultra low weight audio.....

[RAAMaudio]

When I get a bit of time, hopefully soon, I am going to take all my threads and put the info into the build thread, all the pics, etc..and take more as well.

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I added more fasteners, doubled up on them, pretty solid now but when I add the undertray it will be bonded to it and then tied to the chassis, it will be very strong

I will use Alumalite, great low cost($100 4x8 sheet wholesale) and very stiff. I have been at very high speeds with just a splitter/undertray made from this, no worries, tied to the T R splitter will be completely safe.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Modified splitter and undertray done today, drove the car a bit until I blew off a boost hose at just under 22 PSI around 5500 RPM.

I made a 1" sq tube subframe brace/rear undertray mount as well today.

DIY BBK under 15x9, 13 lb, track wheels, LOTS of effort to get this going but worth it

 

[MKVIIST]

Looks great Rick. What material is the under-tray?

 

[rodmoe]

I assume you provide enough air passages for proper cooling ? Looks beefy btw

 

[RAAMaudio]

I forgot to weigh it, very very lite and very stiff

Alumalite, a sign industry product, I buy 4x8 sheets, 6mm thick, aluminum skinned plastic honeycomb, been using it for years for such parts as far less than CF, plenty stiff enough, cheap to replace.

I had to sand off a lip on the trailing edge, it was not great fun being fiberglass so I did it outdoors wearing a mask.

By sectioning the ends instead of one solid piece I saved a bunch of material and it is riveted to the splitter so plenty strong. I only used 33x48 inches and cut the end parts from some left over scrap.

I have made a bunch of low weight Vette audio system parts when I was selling systems using the Alumalite, it is a great product.

I was going to use round tubing but decided flat was better, for the subframe brace but it is a bit more than I needed for height, just like a wicker bill on a wing an edge at the back of a undertray is a good thing though I do not recall why and to tired to figure it out right now but I learned about it from a very serious race shop, book, etc....

I will make some parts for in front of the tires as well to divert the air around them.

As for cooling, this will add more negative pressure and will help pull air out of the engine bay so should help cooling, at least that is what I recall....been a few years since I made one. I have the water and oil temp under constant monitoring on the AP so I will know if any issue.

I will also change the mounting to qtr turn fasteners so it will pop right off, I have a ton of them to pick from.

I seem to have lost one of the side skirt plugs, really odd I cannot find it, I looked for it twice today........

 

[RAAMaudio]

My wife loves the wheels, she wants me to sell the 17 Konig Feathers and Mich PS AS3 tires and get a set of 15x8 for the street, she is a cool woman in deed, she gets it, real performance, loves the car and all I have done to it, lucky man I am!

 

[RAAMaudio]

She does want me to do some bold graffics on the car, I am considering it, not something I have ever done.

 

[RAAMaudio]

This pic shows the race muffler delete pipe though hard to see as I have not put a tip on it, not really that loud but the muffler makes it so quiet I need it louder to hear what I am doing on the track.

It also shows about half of the 43' trailer the car will ride in the back of, and the front half of the dually used to pull it, that will be our home when the house sells, hitting the road full time, why this car is so perfect for our needs, small and light enough and room for our Akita and our Irish Wolfhound

Montana plates on the car because we needed a place to register our vehicles so I have an LLC there.

 

[MKVIIST]

What's the offset and width on the wheels? Thoughts on going a tad lower?

 

[razorlab]

So great to see photos with your efforts! Thank you for posting those!

Damn I regret not getting a silver FiST. :-/

What offset are those wheels? The back looks like it might give you trouble if you do not have stiff springs since it's not indy rear.

Those rear rotors! Do want! Are you going to publish the specs and info on getting them?

BTW, nice house!

 

[rodmoe]

Cool

 

[Sourskittle]

How am I not subbed to this thread?
Silver fist normally have bigger compressor wheels, lol.
Hope your having a good time at the track today
Under tray is awesome.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I will go over this tomorrow and answer questions, post more info, etc...about to fall out of my chair right now after a night of little sleep and a day at the Octane Academy, where the care gathered a lot of attention

 

[RAAMaudio]

Got busy yesterday, had all the windows and a windsheild inside banner done in 20% tint, sunroof even darker....looks great, will take pics later.

Wheels, 15x9, +35mm, roll formed, 13lbs, 4x100 bolt pattern, Konig Dial In, $126 each, killer deal! (Not made in 4x108 unfortunately)

Rear BBK, custom by me, steel caliper mounts which took a great deal of time to prototype are on the car right now, I have the billet 6061 parts on hand now but have to drill and tap them as well as make the changes I found needed on the steel ones. Rotor hats had to have some material machined off to make them thinner. The calipers are not on the Wilwood site but I know where to get them, the whole kit will be available soon for a very good price.

The calipers have ears that a parking brake cable can be used on, not a really strong brake but it will help and meet rules where required. I have to design the parts to tie in the stock cables.

I move the calipers forward to make it easier to fit the stock cables, this changed the toe and camber but I was doing a cut and alignment of the flanges on the axle to go to -1.5 camber and zero rear toe so it was not a problem swaping knuckles. Those wanting to skip that very serious mod might have to change cables, not sure, a close call.

Also the mounts for the stock calipers had to be cut off and the area they attached to drilled and tapped to bolt on the caliper mounts.

Overall, a very involved process but I am working with a brake company to make these available. If you want to do your own work on the knuckles you could do this kit pretty soon, the knuckle work is not that tough for anybody with much experience but you need the tools.

I know the stock rear brakes would likely work but my car is going to be very fast and I will not have a shop for some time after selling my place here so I am just taking care if it now so I do not have an issue on the road and of course, it looks great, I do like making things look nice though most all I do is about performance above all else.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I can only lower the car another 1/4" or so and maintain proper geometry, it is lower than it looks in the pictures, just have shorter tires than stock. I have already scuffed the splitter on the bottom front edge getting out of a parking lot, had to back up and to to a different one, etc.......barely clear going out of my garage as have a fairly steep driveway.......

I had to raise the front of the car taht much to stop bottoming out on the really stupid location of the fender/bumper cover support. I might have to cut off some of that and weld on a plate to make more clearance and mod the fender to bumper mounting point a bit as well.

I have the BC, 2jr race spec coilovers, rear springs are 5K, front 6K, I might go one step stiffer.

Rear height adjusters clunk a great deal, might be better if I put them on the top, if not I a looking at the Ground Control articulated ones I had on my BMW.

The tires are out in the wind a bit so I am considering some vertical flat aluminum or ABS pieces to put on the sides to deflect air around them, my vette came that way and the race body I had for my other one even bigger ones, that was a wind tunnel tweaked $15k body so I am sure a good design.

 

[RAAMaudio]

More work completed:
*Drivers side floor mounted Halatron Fire Extinguisher
*One step colder plugs installed and indexed
*BC rear spring height adjusters moved to the top of the springs and a rubber spacer installed, no more rattling around
*20% window tint all over including windshield banner, sunroof done with a limo tint.

On order:
EFR med waste gate controller, once it is here the final tuning will begin

Things sorted out:
*No rear wing mods, just not going to be needed, this is after talking with the shop manager at the Ford race shop at MMP and Tim O'Neil, that Tim, yes, really master.....

The car drives incredibly well, just finishing up little details and the tune and will be ready to go to the track at Miller for two days of fun the 17th and 18th

 

[razorlab]

I had to raise the front of the car taht much to stop bottoming out on the really stupid location of the fender/bumper cover support. I might have to cut off some of that and weld on a plate to make more clearance and mod the fender to bumper mounting point a bit as well.

If you just need to get rid of the front part of the tab like I did, there are two other bolts holding the bumper to the fender so taking out the first one is fine.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Thanks, I need to try to keep that as my well rolled and pulled fenders have a bit of fitment issue on that lower bolt area.


I also hit the bigger inboard part that has a flat bottom on it, that is the part I need to cut off and make a new section for.

 

[razorlab]

Thanks,
I also hit the bigger inboard part that has a flat bottom on it, that is the part I need to cut off and make a new section for.

Are you talking about by the frame?

 

[RAAMaudio]

It is welded to the frame, flat on the bottom, one of the liner mount holes is on it, the fender mount is a part of it further out.