Meaty Tires Thread

[M-Sport fan]

I've been running R compound tires on the street, during the summers, for 20 years without a single puncture or failure. For a performance car driven in canyon type driving, they are simply the best. They are bad in rain and when they do heat up and get soft, sure they pick up gravel, but all that becomes negligible when you feel how they can transform a car's performance. If you search for reviews on the R888, some people are getting over 10k miles on the street. So, if your needs fit this model, and you're not concerned about getting 50k miles out of a tire, then I heartily recommend that you try them.

One of the sets of tires I had on my Z28 way back when it was only 3 years old were the Nitto 555R2s (the road race, 100 tread wear, stiffer side wall ones NOT the regular R drag radials).
Granted, they were not bad as far as tread wear (~14K miles or so) and getting flats went, but, they also were not HALF as sticky as the R888s.

The RA1s, even though many (and maybe even Toyo themselves?) claim that they are the same compound as the 888s, do seem to be a little harder compound wise, as well as as somewhat better in the wet due to their tread pattern, and deeper full tread depth.

In any case, YES, IF people are really getting > 4K miles out of them on the street, I WILL consider them, or maybe even the RA1s if I am worried about standing water on the roadways (the 888s DO look much cooler though).

THANKS for the cap info!

 

[ericr]

One of the sets of tires I had on my Z28 way back when it was only 3 years old were the Nitto 555R2s (the road race, 100 tread wear, stiffer side wall ones NOT the regular R drag radials).
Granted, they were not bad as far as tread wear and getting flats went, but, they also were not HALF as sticky as the R888s (the RA1s even though many claim they are the same compound as the 888s, seem to be a little harder compound wise, as well as a little better in the wet due to their tread pattern, and deeper full tread depth).

In any case, YES, IF people are really getting > 4K miles out of them on the street, I WILL consider them, or maybe even the RA1s if I am worried about standing water on the roadways (the 888s DO look much cooler though).

Miata spec racers went back to the older RA1's after complaining that the R888's wore out faster. RA1's have more tread and would likely be better in the rain. This is not my only car and I won't drive it in the rain on these tires.

My reason for going with the R888's is that Toyo recommends far less negative camber than the RA1's. I run -2.25 which is mid range within Toyo's recommendation. RA1's have a recommended range of -3 to -5, fine for the track but terrible for the road. You'd wear out the inner edge. With -2.25 and fairly frequent rotations, I have experienced even tire wear.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Miata spec racers went back to the older RA1's after complaining that the R888's wore out faster. RA1's have more tread and would likely be better in the rain. This is not my only car and I won't drive it in the rain on these tires.

My reason for going with the R888's is that Toyo recommends far less negative camber than the RA1's. I run -2.25 which is mid range within Toyo's recommendation. RA1's have a recommended range of -3 to -5, fine for the track but terrible for the road. You'd wear out the inner edge. With -2.25 and fairly frequent rotations, I have experienced even tire wear.

Yes, I forgot about once hearing that about the RA1s.

In the CMC (Camaro Mustang Challenge) series in NASA, for which the 100 tread wear Toyos are the spec tire, the competitors complained about the 888s so much (I don't remember if it was tread wear, or something else) that Toyo actually brought back the RA1 for them, after killing them in the sizes used in the series, originally thinking that everyone would ONLY want the newer 888s.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I have used the R888 on a number of cars and driven them to events but never full time on the street. I have the RA1 on my track wheels, 225/45/15 on 15x9 with -2.5 front camber I run full time and the outer edges held up really well on track, perhaps the added wheel width stretching the sidewalls a bit keeps them from rolling over as much and lessens the wear.

I buy my track tires from JBracing tires, John has taken great care of me over the years. I picked RA1 as can easily get them in great condition and they do not heat cycle out. Heat cycled, shaved, scuffed in, maybe a few laps of racing, last batch were $100 each shipped.

I have been considering the Maxxis RC-1 due to more tread depth and great price but have not worn out the RA1 though had them quite awhile I keep the warm in the winter and they are still soft.

When my current summer tires, 225 Rival S on 9" wheels, are worn down I will compare them on track against the RA1.

None of these tires will be much good in the rain when the tread wears down but with just 1k miles on the Rival S I was in a serious downpour, two days in a row in SoCal and they did amazingly well though I had a bit of hitting standing water, pretty twitchy but never fully hydroplaned.

Eventually I plan to run TT events and depending on points if already pushed into a faster class than I want to run I will switch to A7 Hoosiers most likely.

 

[StayPuft]

As a general PSA, I'd highly recommend to the weekend warriors against running tires like this on their commuter car."Not much good in the rain" is an understatement on these type of tires.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I have used the R888 on a number of cars and driven them to events but never full time on the street. I have the RA1 on my track wheels, 225/45/15 on 15x9 with -2.5 front camber I run full time and the outer edges held up really well on track, perhaps the added wheel width stretching the sidewalls a bit keeps them from rolling over as much and lessens the wear.

I buy my track tires from JBracing tires, John has taken great care of me over the years. I picked RA1 as can easily get them in great condition and they do not heat cycle out. Heat cycled, shaved, scuffed in, maybe a few laps of racing, last batch were $100 each shipped.

I have been considering the Maxxis RC-1 due to more tread depth and great price but have not worn out the RA1 though had them quite awhile I keep the warm in the winter and they are still soft.

When my current summer tires, 225 Rival S on 9" wheels, are worn down I will compare them on track against the RA1.

None of these tires will be much good in the rain when the tread wears down but with just 1k miles on the Rival S I was in a serious downpour, two days in a row in SoCal and they did amazingly well though I had a bit of hitting standing water, pretty twitchy but never fully hydroplaned.

Eventually I plan to run TT events and depending on points if already pushed into a faster class than I want to run I will switch to A7 Hoosiers most likely.

When you buy these RA1s from John, what is the shaved tread depth??

Do some use the full molded depth RA1s as track rain tires/'wets', or are they still too sketchy for that use?
(Yes, I know little can touch the Hoosier DOT Wets in this tire class, i.e.; not a full on rain race tire, but these are much more reasonable cost wise. )

 

[mouse]

After a 4 month wait, I picked up my TD 1.2's today in 15x8 et35 mounted with Toyo R888's in 225/50's. This might be the meatiest yet.

Wow...that looks soo good. I would just drop the front about an inch to match the rear. Perfect setup.

 

[M-Sport fan]

YES, that is quite the SICK (in the BEST way possible!) setup.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I have not taken one of my project cars out in the rain on purpose for many years now due to the high cost of repairs if damaged, more time than money, and I just do not like working on dirty cars and mine are never done so I want them to be relatively clean as possible at all times. That said, I have no personal experience but I seem to recall others have used them for rain race tires and it might of been per rules for the class.

If I ever run I the rain it would likely be on the Rival S is light rain, heavy rain and or cold then the NeoGen on the 6UL wheels.

I have at least 100,000k miles if not several times more experience going all out in the rain, snow, mud, gravel, dirt......loved it, lucky to still be alive.....my vision and reaction time are not quite what they used to be and perhaps my cajones are smaller now as well, I am just not into it like I used to be

 

[ericr]

Here's a 3/4 rear view to show wheel gap with the stock springs. I think it looks OK even without lowering.

 

[Goingnowherefast]

Here's a 3/4 rear view to show wheel gap with the stock springs. I think it looks OK even without lowering.

You planning to lower it? If so how do you think it will be as far as rubbing goes?

 

[stuntdoogie]

I suggest not lowering that car at all. It probably rubs now on hard cornering.

 

[ericr]

You planning to lower it? If so how do you think it will be as far as rubbing goes?

I'm going to leave the stock springs on. The taller sidewalls, Konis, and stock spring rates and travel are a nice combination. I do get a little rub on the outer rears on dips. I'm getting them rolled and pulled next week.

 

[stuntdoogie]

I'm going to leave the stock springs on. The taller sidewalls, Konis, and stock spring rates and travel are a nice combination. I do get a little rub on the outer rears on dips. I'm getting them rolled and pulled next week.

Update on the rolling please.

 

[airjor13]

wow...that looks soo good. I would just drop the front about an inch to match the rear. Perfect setup.

yes yes yes!

 

[ericr]

Update on the rolling please.

Got the rears rolled/pulled today. He used one of the rollers that bolts to the hub with a delrin roller head. He started on the final, flat part of the fender, but that stared to bend outward too much. I suggested he move it up to the area where the fender is double layered. He rolled a bit there and I got about 1/4" more clearance.

That's enough for me. Before, on dips in the road, the fender edge hit the tire tread right on the final edge of the tread sipes. Now, if I hit a big compression dip, it will still hit, but only at the widest part of the sidewall section. That gives me about 4" of travel.

When cornering, or hitting a bump with one rear wheel, there is enough camber change for the entire tire section to fit in the fender.

So, to sum up - I can live with it because I'm on factory springs and intended to stay that way. If you have a lowered car, these tires won't fit with these wheels without extensive body work.

I'm going on a 10-day long mountain driving road trip tomorrow and will see how this setup really works. Just finished adding brake cooling ducts tonight. Will report on any clearance issues with the tires when I return.

 

[SFP]

Got my 15x8 TD's wrapped in Hankook R-S3 V2's 225/45 I'm happy with it for now

 

[M-Sport fan]

Got the rears rolled/pulled today. He used one of the rollers that bolts to the hub with a delrin roller head. He started on the final, flat part of the fender, but that stared to bend outward too much. I suggested he move it up to the area where the fender is double layered. He rolled a bit there and I got about 1/4" more clearance.

That's enough for me. Before, on dips in the road, the fender edge hit the tire tread right on the final edge of the tread sipes. Now, if I hit a big compression dip, it will still hit, but only at the widest part of the sidewall section. That gives me about 4" of travel.

When cornering, or hitting a bump with one rear wheel, there is enough camber change for the entire tire section to fit in the fender.

So, to sum up - I can live with it because I'm on factory springs and intended to stay that way. If you have a lowered car, these tires won't fit with these wheels without extensive body work.

I'm going on a 10-day long mountain driving road trip tomorrow and will see how this setup really works. Just finished adding brake cooling ducts tonight. Will report on any clearance issues with the tires when I return.

Are these going to be your full time, summer street setup?

I guess if you were hitting them on compressions/bumps with the 225/50 888s, the 235/50s I wanted to use are OUT OF THE QUESTION?!?

If the Pro 1.2s were made in 15x8 with more offset, would your setup work without scraping, and the requisite pulling/rolling, or would they then hit everything on the inside?

IF I don't want to do the fender work, and eventually plan on a coil over setup (which almost all of them HAVE TO sit at least 0.2" lower than stock ride height, even at their highest spring position), am I better off going to a 16x7 Pro race 1.2, and a 215/45 tire, and giving up some ultimate stick on the street? (MANY more > 100 tread wear tires in that size as well.)

OR, just go with the 15x8s and live with the fender gap of the 225/45s (and rougher ride, and higher effective numerical final drive ratio, with less impact protection for the wheels)?

 

[WhiteFords]

Got my 15x8 TD's wrapped in Hankook R-S3 V2's 225/45 I'm happy with it for now

Can you post more pics, preferably from the non-shaded side of the car? I have been looking for pics of these wheels and tires on a white FIST.

 

[SFP]

Yep, headed to the mountains this weekend so will prob be doing some photos... If not ill grab a few better ones soon.