115k Miles - What should I do?

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Hey guys this is my first post, I just bought a 2015 with 115k miles and it’s shockingly in near perfect condition.

i wanted to ask what should I do to preserve reliability and longevity, I am doing oil/filter, transmission fluid, and spark plugs.

Other than that what are some know maintenance issues I should address or some things that at this mileage should be replaced, gaskets, seals, etc..

Also what are some common upgrades outside of maintenance most people do to make the stock car drive and feel better? (Except rear motor mount it came with one)

thanks super thrilled to share my build over these next couple years!
 


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Upgraded radiator to keep temperatures down, along with a lower temperature thermostat (most go for the Motorcraft 180f). Performance upgrades: upgraded intercooler, drop-in filter, and a good tune with a cobb accessport.
 


SteveS

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You don't need to change the radiator if you aren't having overheating problems. That usually comes with tuning and performance upgrades. Likewise you don't need to change the thermostat to a lower temperature one. In stock condition the engine has designed thermal operating conditions that may not be met with a lower temperature thermostat. Again, tuning throws the OEM specs out the window and may require accommodation.

Brake and clutch fluid, on the other hand, should be changed roughly every 30,000 miles to keep the clutch slave cylinder healthy.

I would also suggest keeping up with the list of recommended maintenance based on mileage. You can create an account at owner.ford.com and see the maintenance schedule, recalls, owners manual, and more. Then you can also put the FordPass app on your phone and see much of the same stuff as well as maintain a service record of service the dealer, you, or an independent mechanic performs. The 120,000 mile service coming up is one of the bigger ones.

Your car isn't really old enough that it needs new suspension bushings, but the shocks/struts might be worn.

If you're keeping the car stock, not looking for performance increases, that's pretty much it. Maintain it in top condition.
 


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For better feel, .. a short shift mod. Easy, cheap. for better handling, a set of "beehive" springs ala mountune. They give both a smoother ride and a stiffer one as well. Also replace the RMM, It's about time anyway. The mod to move the gas pedal up and closer to the brake pedal for the ability to 'heel and toe' improves the driving experience. .. (the garage line brand moves the pedal in both directions, not just raising it)

Also due soon is the timing belt.
 


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Thread Starter #7
Upgraded radiator to keep temperatures down, along with a lower temperature thermostat (most go for the Motorcraft 180f). Performance upgrades: upgraded intercooler, drop-in filter, and a good tune with a cobb accessport.
Thanks performance is down the line I want to get this car bulletproof before that
 


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Thread Starter #8
You don't need to change the radiator if you aren't having overheating problems. That usually comes with tuning and performance upgrades. Likewise you don't need to change the thermostat to a lower temperature one. In stock condition the engine has designed thermal operating conditions that may not be met with a lower temperature thermostat. Again, tuning throws the OEM specs out the window and may require accommodation.

Brake and clutch fluid, on the other hand, should be changed roughly every 30,000 miles to keep the clutch slave cylinder healthy.

I would also suggest keeping up with the list of recommended maintenance based on mileage. You can create an account at owner.ford.com and see the maintenance schedule, recalls, owners manual, and more. Then you can also put the FordPass app on your phone and see much of the same stuff as well as maintain a service record of service the dealer, you, or an independent mechanic performs. The 120,000 mile service coming up is one of the bigger ones.

Your car isn't really old enough that it needs new suspension bushings, but the shocks/struts might be worn.

If you're keeping the car stock, not looking for performance increases, that's pretty much it. Maintain it in top condition.
Luckily before I bought it the car had all new calipers pads and rotors put in
 


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Thread Starter #9
For better feel, .. a short shift mod. Easy, cheap. for better handling, a set of "beehive" springs ala mountune. They give both a smoother ride and a stiffer one as well. Also replace the RMM, It's about time anyway. The mod to move the gas pedal up and closer to the brake pedal for the ability to 'heel and toe' improves the driving experience. .. (the garage line brand moves the pedal in both directions, not just raising it)

Also due soon is the timing belt.
Sounds good, regarding the shifter what about the base bushing and cable bushings I heard those can make a big difference?
 


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Thread Starter #11
If you don't have documented replacement of the timing belt from the previous owner then you need to budget for that as well, or plan on doing it yourself. They're on a 10 year/150k replacement interval.
After I get the car feeling back to new I will be doing the timing belt myself, watched some vids I feel like I could get it done in a day. I also read to do the serpentine belt, water pump, and tensioner while in there. Any other things I should look at while I’m doing a deep dive in there?
 


Downsy

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After I get the car feeling back to new I will be doing the timing belt myself, watched some vids I feel like I could get it done in a day. I also read to do the serpentine belt, water pump, and tensioner while in there. Any other things I should look at while I’m doing a deep dive in there?
That pretty much covers it. Can probably knockout the engine mounts while you're at it.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#13
TIMING BELT KIT* Don't wait until 10 years or 150k that is a JOKE by FOMOCO just like their lifetime transmission fluid a while back. [driving]
 


Sam4

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#14
is there actually anything wrong? Change a blend door if you need to do something! Swapping parts out at 115K might backfire....but of course, we like that!
 


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Thread Starter #15
TIMING BELT KIT* Don't wait until 10 years or 150k that is a JOKE by FOMOCO just like their lifetime transmission fluid a while back. [driving]
Definitely not waiting I’m planning on doing that within the next couple weeks
 


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Thread Starter #16
is there actually anything wrong? Change a blend door if you need to do something! Swapping parts out at 115K might backfire....but of course, we like that!
No that what’s shocking me there really isn’t anything wrong, this is just the first car I’ve went out of my way to buy that isn’t an EconoCar, I guess I’m just so excited to have it I want to it be perfect 😂😂
 


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#17
Typical failure point for the timing belt is 150,000 miles. Since an actual failure of this belt will grenade the engine I would replace mine at 120,000 miles. Another 150,000 mile issue is the Clutch so that is another item I plan on replacing at 120,000 miles. BTW, I plan on purchasing a used beater for these replacements because at 75-78 years old I won't have the strength or stamina to take these on and experience has shown that a dealer capable of doing this service will take 2 or 3 months to get the job done. Welcome to the post covid world where hard working employees are near impossible to find.
 


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Thread Starter #18
Typical failure point for the timing belt is 150,000 miles. Since an actual failure of this belt will grenade the engine I would replace mine at 120,000 miles. Another 150,000 mile issue is the Clutch so that is another item I plan on replacing at 120,000 miles. BTW, I plan on purchasing a used beater for these replacements because at 75-78 years old I won't have the strength or stamina to take these on and experience has shown that a dealer capable of doing this service will take 2 or 3 months to get the job done. Welcome to the post covid world where hard working employees are near impossible to find.
Thankful I’m young enough and have enough mechanical knowledge I think I can service these my self, I’ve read that that the timing belt is upmost importance especially with how I intend to drive, regarding the clutch Im going to wait for a while so I can save up to throw in a new clutch flywheel and LSD, I’ve also read while I’m doing the clutch I should change the rear main seal and the throw out bearing. I want to throw money into upgrading the performance but want to make sure I have a “bulletproof“ platform before I do that.
 


SteveS

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#19
If doing the clutch you would also want to replace the slave cylinder. It's inside the transmission case and is a known weak part.
 


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Thread Starter #20
If doing the clutch you would also want to replace the slave cylinder. It's inside the transmission case and is a known weak part.
Thanks for posting, had that on my list of to do just forgot to write in my above post
 




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