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FS Reusable Lower Front Strut Bolt Sets (Class 12.9)

Trader history for Dialcaliper (1)

OP
Dialcaliper

Dialcaliper

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Thread Starter #43
More bolts available.

In addition, I have a set of 2x of the previous 80mm bolts (new) that I’ll sell at a discount.

Also, if anyone is interested, I have my previous used set of 4x 80mm bolts I’ll offer for half price. Absolutely nothing wrong with them, probably just me being a bit of a perfectionist swapping them out (and because I could)
 


SVTBob

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#49
PM’d you. Hope you still have some. Want another set of 4.
 


OP
Dialcaliper
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Thread Starter #56
No, mine are high tensile Class 12.9 bolts and class 12 nuts sourced from Australia and torqued to 110 ft/lbs. ) (not 80)

I appreciate what @ron@whoosh is trying to there, but replacing the stock Class 10.9 torque to yield bolts with other Class 10.9 non-torque to yield results in a much reduced clamping load on the strut. Maybe acceptable on a street car, but that would actually make me a nervous and I’d not risk that driving on a track especially in the lower bolt location that takes higher loads. One H&R camber bolt at 80-90 ft/lb in the upper location is already a reduction from the factory spec.
 


FlordPerformance

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#58
Your bolts need to be 1/2inch shorter. if you're not mass producing these and just buying the length, cut to the correct length, remove the burrs and redeye the ends to accept the nuts.
 


Last edited:
OP
Dialcaliper
Messages
907
Likes
1,475
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Thread Starter #59
Your bolts need to be 1/2inch shorter. if you're not mass producing these and just buying the length, cut to the correct length, remove the burrs and redeye the ends to accept the nuts.
Appreciate the advice, but unfortunately the bolts are only made in 55mm, 80mm, and now the new 70mm special order (which weren’t available before). 55mm would me almost long enough, but not fully engage the nuts with the Nord-Locks in place. 60mm or 65mm would be just perfect but they just don’t exist as far as I can tell. Likewise, I’d prefer partially threaded over full threads, but again these are for a pretty specialized application and it doesn’t make a huge difference here.

As a note, do not cut the bolt ends off. The bolts are zinc flake coated like the OEM bolts (Dacromet/Geomet, like the stuff on brake rotors) coated for corrosion resistance. Cutting will remove the coating will be removed and the bolt ends will rust - nothing bad will happen, but intact these bolts will probably outlast the car. A proper zinc flake has better corrosion resistance than stainless especially against salt.

The length is not really an issue. The OEM bolts have an unthreaded section that sticks out to 65mm. I chose to recommend installing them in the rear facing orientation because I didn’t like how close to the brake lines the lower bolts would be. Most camber bolts you install would have the same issue, being longer than the OEM (though usually those aren’t in the lower location). I’ve not found a really convincing reason that the left and right side bolts are installed differently from the factory short of making it easier for the automated assembly tooling.

I’ve been down a lot of these logic paths already, and while it’s probably overengineering, I decided to source the best possible bolts I could find without having to make a minimum order order 1000’s of bolts (at the corresponding tens of thousands of $$)
 




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