What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[Capri to ST]

Lugnuts are swollen (giggity) so probably should replace them. Anyone got a Mcgard part number handy? They’re my go-to.

I'm using McGard Spline Drive Lug Nuts, P/N #65357BC, and like them a lot. I've had them for almost eight years and they've held up well, they're tough.
This is on my aftermarket wheels. I think they fit the OEM ones too, but I'm not sure.
Here's a link, they're sold many places, and come in other colors-
https://www.maperformance.com/produ...e-cone-seat-lug-nuts-chrome-blue-caps-65357bc

 

[isis]

I'm using McGard Spline Drive Lug Nuts, P/N #65357BC, and like them a lot. I've had them for almost eight years and they've held up well, they're tough.
This is on my aftermarket wheels. I think they fit the OEM ones too, but I'm not sure.
Here's a link, they're sold many places, and come in other colors-
https://www.maperformance.com/produ...e-cone-seat-lug-nuts-chrome-blue-caps-65357bc
View attachment 64484

Thanks but I prefer regular hex ones. I dig the blue end tho, that’d be sweet.

 

[Capri to ST]

Thanks but I prefer regular hex ones. I dig the blue end tho, that’d be sweet.

Yes, the blue end is a nice touch on a blue car.

 

[pixelzombie]

Thanks but I prefer regular hex ones. I dig the blue end tho, that’d be sweet.

I've had these for over 3 years, no issues at all.

Replacement Lug Nuts, Closed End Bulge Acorn Cone seat 20 Pcs

 

[isis]

I've had these for over 3 years, no issues at all.

Replacement Lug Nuts, Closed End Bulge Acorn Cone seat 20 Pcs

Thanks. These’ll do.

 

[KXNGABE85]

I'm intrigued by the dynamat, it really that made that big of a difference?

100% Dude I am not kidding, I am currently just to list a few mods, CPE Passenger and Trans mounts (NVH is real with these guys lol) lots of bracing both from and rear. Vibra Technics RMM because CPE as out of stock lol. About 5 braces in total if I remember correctly, removed the spare out of the back and everything else in it. Rear Muffler deleted and a sound system, all components plus rear sub that weighs 45lbs by itself and the difference in sound is UNREAL.

I never realized how loud my car was until I put that sound deading in the back. I guess I never really thought about it, I knew I had rattles but with those rattles comes a lot of increased noise and I just never put the two together, is what it is. But when I cranked the motor for the first time after putting the car back together I couldnt believe my ears! Even to this day, I notice it right away like I can't believe how much quieter the cabin is compared to what it used to be, hence why I will be doing the rest of the car in the near future. I honestly don't think you will regret it. My two cents ✌️

 

[Dialcaliper]

I'm using McGard Spline Drive Lug Nuts, P/N #65357BC, and like them a lot. I've had them for almost eight years and they've held up well, they're tough.
This is on my aftermarket wheels. I think they fit the OEM ones too, but I'm not sure.
Here's a link, they're sold many places, and come in other colors-
https://www.maperformance.com/produ...e-cone-seat-lug-nuts-chrome-blue-caps-65357bc
View attachment 64484

I also like the mcgard spline drive nuts. Narrow profile is great for aftermarket wheels and the spline teeth hold up better than hex flats if you are repeatedly removing and replacing wheels yourself, which I tend to do.

The integrated taper washers are what really make them great. I find that I’m much more able to get a reliable torque on the first go around (always do three passes), and rarely do I ever get any movement even after a test drive or checking a day or two later. Because of the washers they don’t bind like steel-on-aluminum does

 

[Intuit]

100% Dude I am not kidding, I am currently just to list a few mods, CPE Passenger and Trans mounts (NVH is real with these guys lol) lots of bracing both from and rear. Vibra Technics RMM because CPE as out of stock lol. About 5 braces in total if I remember correctly, removed the spare out of the back and everything else in it. Rear Muffler deleted and a sound system, all components plus rear sub that weighs 45lbs by itself and the difference in sound is UNREAL.

I never realized how loud my car was until I put that sound deading in the back. I guess I never really thought about it, I knew I had rattles but with those rattles comes a lot of increased noise and I just never put the two together, is what it is. But when I cranked the motor for the first time after putting the car back together I couldnt believe my ears! Even to this day, I notice it right away like I can't believe how much quieter the cabin is compared to what it used to be, hence why I will be doing the rest of the car in the near future. I honestly don't think you will regret it. My two cents ✌️

Yes, a ton of sound enters from the rear. Of interest, the cowling assembly beneath the windshield, is also responsible for a huge amount of sound deflection from the engine bay.

 

[isis]

Installed a Cobb RMM and a whoosh ricer plate.

• Mount feels good. Haven’t been on highway but haven’t noticed any increased noise. No more squeaky action when I take off or shift at low speeds.
• Ricer plate is a bit loud and silly for first and second gear but it’s kind of a silly little car anyway so it kind of fits.

I’m pretty happy. Haven’t done much else in a while. Lugnuts are swollen (giggity) so probably should replace them. Anyone got a Mcgard part number handy? They’re my go-to.

Went back out this morning and changed out the passenger blend door. Thanks for the info here on that, I initially bought the ford part that ends with A thinking I needed the driver side one. After more reading I realized that it was the passenger side I needed. Then I carefully read through the threads here this morning and realized I made the same mistake as a few others and misinterpreted the diagram so I accidentally bought the right part. Went right in with no issue. Opened up the old part and confirmed broken gear teeth.

I then replaced the cabin temperature sensor because once in a while if I shut the car off and start it a few minutes later, the auto climate control has lost its brain and blows AC full cold at 50% fan no matter what the temperature outside is. Hopefully that fixes it and it’s not a control unit issue. The old sensor was full of dust and hair so hoping an improvement.

After a test drive, the motor mount yesterday didn’t fix my squeak when I clutch in and out when it’s cold. It’s coming from the front passenger side. Is there maybe a mount there that’s going or maybe it’s the upper strut mount? Any ideas?

 

[isis]

Welp interior sensor didn’t fix it. Ran a quick errand and when I got back in the car, boom, blasting AC when it’s 40 degrees out. Yay electrical gremlins. At least you can still manually turn the temp to high and control the vents and fan manually. So it’s more annoying than anything and doesn’t happen for my commute or anything since it sits a while.