I’d like to chime in here, as I’m having massive issues with my Antigravity Batteries. Yes. Two of them.
Here’s the rundown:
Car Setup
2016 Ford Fiesta ST
Ethanol Tuned (takes slightly longer to crank engine on cold start)
Tuned with Cobb Access port (I mention because perhaps I can pull logs from it about voltage or charge duty cycles)
Daily Driver duties and AutoX car
111000 miles
Battery Charger used for both batteries
CTEK 12V Lithium US Smart Charger 4.3A - Recommended from Antigravity
Battery Setup
ATX-20
- Old battery - I still have it sitting on a shelf in my garage. Last summer I drove cross country and back from New Jersey to Oregon. After HOURS of driving, I would shut the car off to fuel up and it wouldn't turn back on. When I'd led the car cool off for an hour, the battery would come back online, or I would jump start it with a NOCO BOOST PLUS GB40 and get back on the road for another multiple hours drive.
- When I reached out about this, I was told that it was probably overheating and the restart function was protecting the battery. I was recommended to get the ATX-20-HD, as it doesn't have the restart feature but is more robust.
- I replaced the battery and Melee battery box for the new form factor
ATX-20-HD
- I bought the ATX-20-HD and it was working flawlessly from August last year until about June of this year.
- Once again, this summer has been 90+ degrees and I thought that possibly the battery was getting too hot.
- I installed the Antigravity Bluetooth Battery Tracker PLUS and saw that the battery wasn't charging whilst in the car.
- Replaced the alternator in July at 110500 miles with a new OEM Ford part. Voltage tests out to 14.6 output on alternator
- Replaced the Battery Control Module in August with a new OEM Ford part.
- The battery will intermittently idle charge now, but not enough voltage for the car to not drain it till the car turns off whilst driving.
I have to charge the battery every night in my garage to get to work 17 highway miles away. On the drive, I can watch the battery monitor app and see the battery go from 99% all the way down to 76% or so. Once I go to work, I bring the CTEK charger with me and I have to pull the battery out of the car to charge it, or I won't be able to get home. Once the capacity hits around 64%, the voltage will usually slowly drop down to 12.5 volts or less and then the car will turn off while I'm driving it. If this occurs, I can wait a few minutes, and all power will come back on by itself, but the battery will read 45% or so. I may make it home, I may not. If not, I can jump the car with the NOCO box and let it sit for a few minutes. Once again, I may get home, I may not. Once home, I put the battery on the Charger again, where it shows no issues when it charges overnight.
The bluetooth battery tracker has been great to at least try and see what's been going on. I have also attached two screenshots from my phone with the results of the Cranking Test and the Charging Test. The only outstanding thing to me is the Diode Ripple Voltage is at 4mV. I am not sure if that is a problem or not. The battery log attached has a lot of information that may be useful as well.