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AWD Twin Engine Fiesta

OP
PapaJim13
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Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Thread Starter #21
Looks like a bad clutch and nothing else. No clutch fluid as I think it took out the slave cylinder spinning around in the bell housing.

Do you guys think the flywheel is good? It’s pretty smooth but I’ve never done work like this before and don’t know for sure.

Fix-it parts and Go-fast parts are both on the way. This build is going to get pretty exciting pretty quickly. View attachment IMG_8523.jpeg View attachment IMG_8521.jpeg View attachment IMG_8524.jpeg
 


Intuit

3000 Post Club
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South West Ohio
#22
Last time I took the extra precaution of replacing a flywheel (different car) that didn't need it, I had to rip it all back apart again and reinstall my original because the replacement was severely out of balance. Car gyrated like a coin operated bed in a cheap motel.

Check the thread holes and studs. Might put a straight-edge on it but seems like it'd be pretty hard to know if it were warped via visual inspection.

Do you know the cause of the failure? Clutch drop?
 


XR650R

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Eerie
#23
If you're willing to do such surgery, I would love to see how it goes.
 


OP
PapaJim13
Messages
74
Likes
41
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Thread Starter #24
Check the thread holes and studs. Might put a straight-edge on it but seems like it'd be pretty hard to know if it were warped via visual inspection.
Do you know the cause of the failure? Clutch drop?
Good idea, I’ll do my best to clean it and the holes. I’d like to clean the engine block and the area around too.

No idea on the specific cause of failure but 50:50 operator error banging gears or an off centered clutch. Looked a bit off center before I took it off.
 


OP
PapaJim13
Messages
74
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41
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Thread Starter #25
Well the first start went pretty bad. Transmission is toast and it sounds exactly like when I bought it. Hopefully the new clutch I just put in doesn’t look like the one I took out.
 


OP
PapaJim13
Messages
74
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41
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Thread Starter #26
More unlucky news, got scammed trying to buy a swave and summit brace and strut brace through a connection made here. Anyone have a cheap strut brace I can buy who won't scam me? I'd like to have one on the car before I start cutting to keep everything at least close to where it needs to be.
 


dhminer

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Location
Burlington, NC, USA
#27
Sorry to hear about the scamming. General rule is unless someone has hundreds or thousands of posts and has been around a while, use PayPal goods and services. Can’t wait to see this build take off!
 


WannabeST

Active member
Messages
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763
Location
Riverside,CA
#28
More unlucky news, got scammed trying to buy a swave and summit brace and strut brace through a connection made here. Anyone have a cheap strut brace I can buy who won't scam me? I'd like to have one on the car before I start cutting to keep everything at least close to where it needs to be.
Report this to some of the admins to get that account banned
 


OP
PapaJim13
Messages
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Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Thread Starter #30
The conversation has been deleted from my inbox as soon as I called him out for the scam so I'm not sure who it was. Wish I took a sc of the original message.
 


OP
PapaJim13
Messages
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41
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Thread Starter #31
Build update time:

Didn't work on it much last week as my girlfriend and I got a kitten (Ringo) to keep our big ol orange cat Garfield some company during the day. They're both adjusting well and both seem happy with each other already. pic2.jpg

On the topic of the car, I still was able to gut most of the interior to eventually pull the complete wiring harness before I cut the car up. I need to have most of the car out of my parents garage by Oct 15th so I'll be rushing these next few weeks to get that done. It's far easier to take a scrap car apart than to put one together again.

Yesterday I pulled the car forward in the garage a little bit with my car (Papa Jim) so I'd have more room behind the car to work. Looks a little sketch but it worked.
Pic 3.jpg

After that, I pulled the motor and trans in one piece, only cutting the fuel line (didn't have the special tool and I wasn't gonna wait) and the exhaust (Michigan rust fuses flanges together better than a welder. Pic 4.jpg

Now the engine sits in a good resting spot... on a bunch of broken glass. I'm not working with too much room in the garage, I can only use about a quarter of it and it limits me on space quite a bit. That's also why I have a passenger seat on the windshield. I've already swapped the driver's seat into my car in place of the factory cloth seats. A side project before winter will be getting the heated seats to work so I have one seat out to figure out the wiring. Shout out to this engine hoist, it's a beast and I just rebuilt the cylinder so there's no longer oil dripping or the slow pressure leak.
Pic 5.jpg

Next steps are:
1) Get the complete wiring harness removed
2) Remove the dash and all other components I'll need for the swap
3) Remove subframe and front suspension
4) Clean up all the stuff in the engine bay
5) Cut it in manageable pieces to take to the scrapyard
 


Intuit

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#35
It'll be interesting to see how it handles when cornering aggressively. The nannies of course will all be disabled and ABS based vectoring and such have a very noticeable impact on the "positioning" and "pointing" of the FWD vehicle.
 


OP
PapaJim13
Messages
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Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Thread Starter #36
I’m wondering how to wire up the Abs sensors and if I should even bother with it. I have trouble spinning my tires to begin with and don’t think I’ll have much of an issue maintaining traction but the extra rear weight might throw the back end out. My stability control system is going to have a field day when I slide it on gravel. It’ll need some thorough testing in the winter to get the ideal wiring setup.
 


Intuit

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#37
Should be able to splice in any require wire extensions?

The additional weight should help plant the rear. In stock config Ford lowered the tire pressure to help compensate.

It's just the fact that the rear would be under power; plus the suspension wasn't engineered around the additional weight. Plus-sizing the rear brakes?
 


OP
PapaJim13
Messages
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Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Thread Starter #38
Yes I’ll splice in the wheel speed sensors, throttle controls, clutch pedal sensor, brake pedal sensor, and maybe some other things but I’m not sure yet. I just pulled the dash out and got the engine side of the wiring harness removed. That’s where most of my splices will come from. I need most of my dash controls too as that’s how I’ll be turning off and on traction control.

I know there’s some kind of plug in traction control toggle unit for an ST but I’m unsure if it’ll work on my car.

since I’m keeping the front knuckles in the rear, I’ll use the stock front brakes as rear brakes and see how they work. If I need more stopping power, I could easily swap in stock ST front brakes to both the front and rear or maybe a big brake kit is needed. It’s only going to be 240 hp but I don’t even have an estimate on the final weight yet.
 


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