CLOSED: What tune is everyone using on the Fiesta ST?

[dyn085]

What should I be monitoring on normal driving? I just put stage 2 on and all the Guage options are a bit overwhelming

You'll get a ton of different answers to this. For getting familiar with your AP3 I would monitor Octane Adjust Ratio Learned, Oil Temperature, and all four ignition corrections. The OAR monitor should settle out to -1 if your fuel is good enough for the map you're running, and when it does you can change to something generic like AFR Actual. Oil Temperature is inferred, but it's going to be a relatively accurate gauge to tell you when it's safe to go full-boost because you don't want to put that kind of load on your engine when the oil is cold and not flowing well. The ignition corrections will tell you if you're adding timing or having it removed, and if you're having it removed (negative corrections) you'll want to datalog and find out why. Once you've put enough miles on you should be able to see trends with it and determine if you have a weaker cylinder or not. If you have one that statistically reads lower than the other three you can remove the other three from your gauges and only monitor the one.

Once you get more comfortable using it you will probably want to mess around monitoring different monitors, but that will happen in time and based on whatever your current needs are.

 

[pacifist112]

You'll get a ton of different answers to this. For getting familiar with your AP3 I would monitor Octane Adjust Ratio Learned, Oil Temperature, and all four ignition corrections. The OAR monitor should settle out to -1 if your fuel is good enough for the map you're running, and when it does you can change to something generic like AFR Actual. Oil Temperature is inferred, but it's going to be a relatively accurate gauge to tell you when it's safe to go full-boost because you don't want to put that kind of load on your engine when the oil is cold and not flowing well. The ignition corrections will tell you if you're adding timing or having it removed, and if you're having it removed (negative corrections) you'll want to datalog and find out why. Once you've put enough miles on you should be able to see trends with it and determine if you have a weaker cylinder or not. If you have one that statistically reads lower than the other three you can remove the other three from your gauges and only monitor the one.

Once you get more comfortable using it you will probably want to mess around monitoring different monitors, but that will happen in time and based on whatever your current needs are.

So if the gas currently in my tank is not the gas I normally use or have access to(just got back from road trip) i should leave OAR on for a while? I'm reading -1 right now for what its worth, did some 4th gear pulls on onramps without any negative corrections at all so far

 

[dyn085]

So if the gas currently in my tank is not the gas I normally use or have access to(just got back from road trip) i should leave OAR on for a while? I'm reading -1 right now for what its worth, did some 4th gear pulls on onramps without any negative corrections at all so far

Yup, exactly. Long enough to make sure that the fuel you're using works with the map.

Fwiw, the most important check regarding fuel and OAR will be a few WOT pulls. In low-load scenarios there won't be a discernable difference between octanes. If you have negative corrections at WOT you'll either want to try and find better fuel or use a less-aggressive map.

 

[pacifist112]

At what point is a negative correction a concern. Mine dinged -1during a pull. I think I've read it's not enough to be concerned but it never hurts to ask

 

[dyn085]

At what point is a negative correction a concern. Mine dinged -1during a pull. I think I've read it's not enough to be concerned but it never hurts to ask

On the OEM tune, -1 makes no OAR change. In a generic way that means you can consider -1 acceptable.

With that being said, that single number doesn't give the full picture. Did the -1 happen after the cylinders were advanced to +6? Is that -1 consistently happening and not allowing the cylinder to advance along with the others?

Both of those are hypothetical situations of where a -1 would not be good. The first shows a drastic change while the other is repetitive. Neither of those are good, obviously.

I'm sure that your instance would not fall into either of those categories. You probably had a quick negative correction when transitioning into WOT, which happens occasionally.

 

[pacifist112]

Ok thanks. I plan on data logging in a couple days. First car I've done any kind of tuning on, so it's all new to me

 

[iso100]

Wait, oil temperature is inferred??

 

[dyn085]

Not sure if serious...?

 

[Sondi]

Your negative correction probably only happened for a split second. You'll find on when you log.

 

[pacifist112]

Ok so I have had a negative correction 3 times now, all in lower gears, 2nd or third, in the beginning of a pull. Highest has been -2.25. I'm assuming that's not a huge deal but I'm curious as to why that happens.

 

[dyn085]

Did you take datalogs?

 

[D1JL]

Whenever I go out and do spirited driving this is the tune I use.

Spirited Tune





Dave

 

[pacifist112]

Did you take datalogs?

Was Driving around and had an open stretch of road to pull a bit in third. I couldn't get to redline because of me being afraid to triple the speed limit, but its something I guess.

http://datazap.me/u/pacifist112/first-datalog-attempt?log=0&data=4-8

 

[dyn085]

Was Driving around and had an open stretch of road to pull a bit in third. I couldn't get to redline because of me being afraid to triple the speed limit, but its something I guess.

http://datazap.me/u/pacifist112/first-datalog-attempt?log=0&data=4-8

Sorry, nothing is really jumping out at me as a possible reason. If it's happening often enough you might want to consider taking longer datalogs for a better picture of the situation. I take 5-minute logs as a small part of my tuning process to help me pinpoint issues when I only have a general idea of what's causing them or when I want to see a larger and more complete picture.

Side-note: You should add the other ignition corrections to your datalogging list.

 

[pacifist112]

Sorry, nothing is really jumping out at me as a possible reason. If it's happening often enough you might want to consider taking longer datalogs for a better picture of the situation. I take 5-minute logs as a small part of my tuning process to help me pinpoint issues when I only have a general idea of what's causing them or when I want to see a larger and more complete picture.

Side-note: You should add the other ignition corrections to your datalogging list.

how do I do that? I thought I had all 4 ignition corrections on my datalogging list.

as for the negative corrections, they seem to be a split second occurance, normally at the start of a gear. I'm not really concerned at the moment. if they become more common I'll probably swap to a lower tune until I pick a tuner.

 

[dyn085]

how do I do that? I thought I had all 4 ignition corrections on my datalogging list.

as for the negative corrections, they seem to be a split second occurance, normally at the start of a gear. I'm not really concerned at the moment. if they become more common I'll probably swap to a lower tune until I pick a tuner.

They may be on your gauges but you are only datalogging cylinder one. Here's how to change your datalogging parameters-

When your gauges are up hit the top button of the pad to select the right-arrow (which doesn't appear until you hit the top button)-

With that highlighted, hit the center button to select 'configure datalogging'. That will bring up a list of all of the available monitors. Scroll down and ensure all four of these have the green markers-

I would imagine that the negatives are somehow related to your inputs, not the tune itself. Obviously that's just a guess at this point.

 

[pacifist112]

ahhhhh, thank you sir. You are one of the more helpful people I've ever seen on a forum, thanks for the help!

 

[stuntdoogie]

I dont get any neg ign cyl corrections at all monitoring all four cyl with Randys 93oct tune. His tune has been great totally pleased.

 

[maperformance]

I'll throw myself into the pit as well. Been doing Ecoboost E-tuning for a bit now and have a ton of happy customers and power records with other platforms. Here is a quick look at the results I've had with our completely stock Fiesta ST. The graph below shows stock tune vs Cobb Stage 1 tune, vs Our Stage 1 tune. And just for fun I threw in my E30 tune versus my 93 Stage 1 Tune graph.

And E30 Stage 1 vs 93 Stage 1.

I'll give 50% off the E-tune price in return for some feedback, just drop me a pm if you are interested. Pricing can be found in my signature!

 

[dyn085]

That reminds me, Stratified just purchased a FiST yesterday so I would imagine that we'll be seeing some work from them pretty soon as well.