I wanted to see if a set and forget setup would do well for my use, street normal driving, a little fun in canyons but not all out nuts, track days and TT events. I went with -2.1 in the rear the hard way, cut rear flanges loose and realign and weld them well. It took three tries to get it right as could not load the rear properly on the lift so I just did a correction on the next try and it worked, target was -2.0. Toe at zero.
Front I went with -2.5 which turned out great but if setup for auto crossing I would of gone with probably -3.5 or even a bit more depending on tires, surface, how it worked with the rear camber, etc...Toe set to 1/16" in.
Castor as much as I could get with the then available parts which was not much change, if any at all, ten years ago, memory is a bit grayed out there. (of course nothing to do with turning 72 last May
Ride height as low as I could go and maintain proper geometry and real world use, worked great.
If I had kept running events and did some auto crosses as well I would of worked out proper settings and built or modded the control arms probably long before any came out to buy.
Wheels, with the added rear camber and a bit of roll and pull I was able to run 15x9 wheels with 225 tires just fine. I was probably the first to do the 4x100 conversion or close to it as well as first to change rear camber. I put the car on the lift with 5 miles on it, 8 months and 1,000 hours later finally started driving it.
Even though I had progressive springs at first, on BC coilovers, the car was amazing on track, one of the easiest handling cars I have ever driven. I almost ran an autocross for fun once but it started raining pretty hard and I had the wrong tires so did not bother with it. Same as the hill climb in Nevada, just arrived, hardly any time behind the wheel with the new EFR and a lot more power than the first Cyborg turbo, I just did not feel confident in myself to try my luck as I like to go 100% always at events.
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Anyway, back on topic, stock rear camber and -3.5 up front with a bit of toe out sounds like it would work very well indeed for autocross.
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If the rules you are under allow it lower the car as much as you can but do yourself a huge favor and measure the actual center of the suspension where it rotates, inboard and outboard, keep the outboard below the inboard just a bit, makes a huge difference. I did a test at one even where we had covered flat parking, just wanted to see if it really made a big difference. Set ride height and marked it and camber, toe settings with tape, markers, dimples, etc....made a run, lowered it 1/4" more and and set pre determined and marked camber and toe, it was front and rear adjustable, made a run. Set it back to that the math showed was best, made a run. In a 45 second course, running slicks, very quick car, tons of experience, it made a 2.5 second difference which is huge!
At the next event I took 5th in a Pro Solo against trailered high budget SM cars and I was still on stock power and brand new slicks not even scuffed in, spun out on the first run.
Back then I was drawing out the geometry on my shop wall in full scale, really fun doing so.
Rick