Need repair manaul, have to pull head and replace bent valves

[RAAM]

UPDATE: Just found a video, might cover most of what I need other than torque specs, hope no more tools needed, I have the cam locking tools already.

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While swapping to a 2014 low mileage engine I make a serious error which is quite rare for me and quite embarrassing as well. I did not know the crank pulley was not keyed, another bright idea that one, and when I had the bolt loosened up decided to swap the flywheel over from the 2014 engine, when tightening up the flywheel bolts it turned the crank and caused at lest two bent valves as two cylinders are now low on compression. I was so pissed at Ford and myself I let the car sit since around 2021....time to pull the head and fix it and find a new home for a very quick and highly modded 21,000 mile ST.

I had the manual downloaded back in 2014 but cannot find it on my system, any idea where to get it without spending a lot for it, better yet free, please let me know.

Thanks,
Rick

 

[Capri to ST]

UPDATE: Just found a video, might cover most of what I need other than torque specs, hope no more tools needed, I have the cam locking tools already.

------------

While swapping to a 2014 low mileage engine I make a serious error which is quite rare for me and quite embarrassing as well. I did not know the crank pulley was not keyed, another bright idea that one, and when I had the bolt loosened up decided to swap the flywheel over from the 2014 engine, when tightening up the flywheel bolts it turned the crank and caused at lest two bent valves as two cylinders are now low on compression. I was so pissed at Ford and myself I let the car sit since around 2021....time to pull the head and fix it and find a new home for a very quick and highly modded 21,000 mile ST.

I had the manual downloaded back in 2014 but cannot find it on my system, any idea where to get it without spending a lot for it, better yet free, please let me know.

Thanks,
Rick

Here are two links to online service manuals which I have found and bookmarked.
https://www.fofiesta7.com/ford_fiesta_2014_2019_service_manual-1.html

http://sluggyjunx.com/auto/2014_Fiesta/Service Manual.htm

I haven't used them so I can't verify their authenticity, but I hope you find one or both of them helpful.

 

[pixelzombie]

If the links above don't work, I can upload my copy to wetransfer

 

[RAAM]

Thanks, first link works but did not when I tried it, before posting the thread. I always do a good search before posting for help and just did not find what I need, this will do just fine.

Thanks again, much appreciated

Rick

 

[RAAM]

So far is looks like the only tool I will need are the valve spring compressor kit, I could use help finding a moderate cost setup or rent, borrow, etc...one time use should be all I need.

Thanks again
Rick

 

[RAAM]

Dang manual has a bunch of different and confusing parts shown, parical kits, different versions without say what is what.....I will keep looking into it. Pretty expensive as well, going to look into a generic lower cost solution but sure not finding my while searching, will try other terms.

 

[RAAM]

I bought a generic but working great Harbor Freight spring compressor designed to be used with the head off the engine, $59.

Valves appear to be fine so lapped them, new seals, going to do a water test tomorrow morning, got to hot after I started getting it ready. Upside down, injectors and plugs in place, will take a wood dowel and hammer and tap the valves to help ensure fully seated(trick I learned watching a very good video) and then compressed air blow into intake and exhaust ports to look for bubbles then any seeping. Any leaks I will see what valves need replaced and order new ones.

Though I took extra care and used tools designed for this lining up TDC and the cams it is possible something was off a bit but even a notch off the belt might not be enough to cause two cylinders to read lower than they were supposed to, about have the reading of the two good ones.

This a a low mileage engine, I have to go back and look at my records, posts, etc to ensure I have the right info before posting it on the for sale thread. At least the valves will be fully cleaned, new seals, lapped and the bottom end is the original with 21k miles on it.

My wife wants me to keep the car but I just do not want a car with so many mods to deal with as always more upkeep than a mostly stock car, nature of the game. I am more into our RV all out remodel, organic gardening, rock and fossil hunting, natural hot springs, hiking, etc now that I am over 70. I am still pretty quick behind the wheel but lost most interest in it, I started at 16.

Rick

Rick

 

[RAAM]

I had to relap and do the hammer tap to get the last two valves to fully seat so that is good to go. I used the water and compressed air test method, works great. Installed head today and the cams, got to hot to keep working, tomorrow I will check the valve lash, would be wonderful if correct. If not then I have to pull pull the cams and get the right tappets to correct any that are not within spec.

Going well, all things work out I will bring this out of over 5 years in storage, get a new tune then decide to keep or sell for sure.

Rick

 

[XanRules]

Hey Rick,

Just wanted to say hi. I hadn't been able to find RAAMat products - as I'm sure you're aware the website is gone - and a few people on a a car audio forum I lurk on had speculated that you were in ill health or had passed. Glad all is well. Hope you end up enjoying the car, but I understand being "over it."

Cheers!

 

[daloonie]

I had to relap and do the hammer tap to get the last two valves to fully seat so that is good to go. I used the water and compressed air test method, works great. Installed head today and the cams, got to hot to keep working, tomorrow I will check the valve lash, would be wonderful if correct. If not then I have to pull pull the cams and get the right tappets to correct any that are not within spec.

Going well, all things work out I will bring this out of over 5 years in storage, get a new tune then decide to keep or sell for sure.

Rick

I just recently did the valve lash on my head after a machinist checked it over. Fairly easy job, physically, but time consuming to say the least.
Keep a chart and note it all down, I ended up swapping cups around and ended up reusing all but 1 bucket. Now everything is within spec.

Good luck with getting it running again and hope you find a suitable buyer that appreciate the work that has been done.

 

[RAAM]

Thanks! I do hope to find a good buyer and unlike a highly modded low mile well built car I sold before I will be more careful, gave the guy a great deal and he trashed it in no time

It would of been far easier if not in a storage unit, no power, lights, gets rather hot pretty early and I am 72, a happy 72, just not young anymore....


Valve lash is good to go saving quite a bit of work to replace any needed tappets, yeah!!!

Got it all set to install the rest of the cam hardware and then the timing belt but got to hot so had to stop. I am sure I can save some work and get it dialed in right but decided to wait for the cooler weather in the AM and pull the axle so I can install the crank stop tool to make sure absolutely at TDC.

As soon as the timing belt is on, slowly manually spin the engine to ensure valves and pistons in sync then I can do the compression check and when that is done finally put the rest together and fire it up for the first time in 5 years and run right, might be 6 years now, lost track.

Rick

 

[RAAM]

Thanks X, just bad things happen to good people which I hope to think I am one. I trusted somebody and they burned me badly, business nearly died though it had grown every month for many years even through 2008. What was left I turned over to a good buddy and went RVing, why I built the ST to haul in the back of our toyhauler and track it all over but we had some really lean years and could not travel as planned. Buddy is a great guy but wrong match for the business so I took it back over and it started growing again during Covid but my manufacturer became a problem so I ended up pulling the plug and going back to being retired.

Health has been great until caught a nasty bug from grandkids last fall, thought I was not going to make it, ended up with heart issues and kidney disease. Already got my blood pressure back to a good place and heart doing well, no meds, serious effort though. Now working on kidneys, strict nearly vegan diet, no booze, no caffeine, absolutely no fast food which we hardly ever eat out anyway, exercise, herbs, etc, already can tell getting better

I am sure you all have heard the quote "let food be thy medicine" not pharmaceuticals that only around 5% help cure anything, the rest cause more problems and high profit margins. I use the best parts "modern medicine" and use real medicine for what it cannot do, always have, always will.

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Life is shorter that we think, live it fully because the next thing you know you are old and or dead.
I am grateful when I wake up everyday next to my wonderful wife and doggy, breath the clean air, look at the great mountains, know I will be fine and healthy dining at home.

Rick

 

[Mega ST]

I feel you on the no keyway on the crank BS. One of the things I hate most about these ECO boost engines. I can do a Honda/Toyota belt in an hour, V6 ones too. Locking down the cams and the damn flywheel, are you serious? Lol

 

[RAAM]

I had not built or rebuilt an engine in many years and this one is so much more complicated, as all newer engines are, it has been quite a learning experience, to say the least.

Cam, crank, variable valve actuator and crank pulley alignment tools were used.
I skipped the flywheel locking tool as my kit did not have one and I figured not really needed and I was correct.

Got it all lined up and installed the cam belt, I know it is right unless my tools are wrong but with so many alignment tools and things were they are supposed to be highly unlikely it is not just as it is supposed to be.

I had to install the actuators, valve covers, air pump, fuel injectors, etc before I can do the do the compression check so had to come back home to look at the manual again, forgot to take pics of the injector installation and they seem to not want to seat all the way in.

I started much earlier today but not sure going back as getting hotter out but I might as sure as heck want to see some good compression numbers!

Edit:

I did go back and tried to check the compression but could not get it to turn over for some reason, I was tired, hot, just said heck with it, go back in the early AM. It might be something like plugging in the ECU but I could probably run a jumper to the positive and negative of the starter and then jump the solenoid either positive or negative which ever it calls for as long as the other side is getting what it needs. at

I just want to see good compression and I will hoot and holler like a made man...JK, will sure be happy to see it though


Rick

 

[RAAM]

OK, I decided it just has to work so I installed most everything today and then wen to crank if over to do the compression check and no joy....I know I did it before, like 3 years ago, just cannot recall what I did.

I tried ground wire to the solenoid, 12 volts to the other side, etc, no luck but I did forget to bring my DMM so that made it a bit more difficult and after 5 hours no stop crawling all over the car and under it I was tired, it was getting to hot to work, decided that was enough for today.

Taking tomorrow off most likely, I am still dealing with health issues that will take time to heal up so not pushing myself to hard like the 16 hour days I worked much of my life, jobs and hobbies, always doing something fun away from work, usually 7 days a week.

Any ideas on getting to turn over to do the compression check would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, have a great rest of the weekend!
Rick

 

[RAAM]

DUH, might be it, might not, forgot to bring the remote for the Viper alarm, charging it right now, will test as soon as ready to go.

If that does now work I will wire the new jump charger I bought, old one died, directly to the starter bypassing the rest of the system completely.

Rick

 

[RAAM]

OK, I have good compression and the car should start as soon as I finish up a few more bits to install, yeah!!!

 

[RAAM]

It runs, after all these years parked in storage, feels good to bring it back to life!!!

Checking everything for leaks, waiting on gear lube and brake fluid, driving it to pressure wash the engine bay before I put the bumper cover on.

Pumped out all the old gas, brand new gas then pumped enough to ensure system is cleaned out.

It will have all new fluids, basically rebuilt head, every nut and bolt checked and getting the tune looked at to ensure OK to run it or retune it.

Rick

 

[RAAM]

Update" fluids arrived, installed, test drove it, first time in years, one water leak is all, sight tube on aluminum overflow tank, have to order new fittings, can plug it while waiting as not absolutely necessary to have the sight window.

 

[RAAM]

OOPs. Leaked oil all over, thought it was just water as they were mixing on the way to the ground....I messed up and damaged a cam seal, all back apart to inspect, order parts, should be good to go soon. It only took just over 2 hours to break it down to the level of VVT actuators, cam belt off, valve covers, cam lock in place. I was a bit concerned anyway as I had forgot to order new cam seals and was hoping to get by with reusing the 20k mile once, one worked so both likely would have, not damaged taking them out as had to pull the cams so the cover over them was off so a simple remove and install.

I took the weekend off, hot here, was a bit frustrated with myself for making a mistake like this since I am so meticulous and rarely have any issues out of hundreds of car repair for the last 57 years, actually repaired them before I had a license to drive as well so more like 60 years.

I worked on my custom SFF 280mm radiator AIO computer build and a couple of bang bang projects instead.

Rick