AutoX Alignments!

[Peterson]

Hi friends! I string my own alignments with the Quicktrick alignment setup. I know what specs I run, I’m curious what everyone else out there is doing too!

@autoX_Fiesta
SuperPro Caster LCAs
-3.1 Camber - LF
-3.0 Camber - RF
1/8” Toe out

Yes. More camber where my butt goes. That’s because I don’t throw 200lbs of stuff on my front seat when I measure 😆. When I get in the car squats out 0.1° I achieve that much camber with BC BR Coils and Camber bolts.

Questions, comments, concerns? 🤔

 

[M-Sport fan]

15x8 Dekagrams??

There was a very limited run of those in our PCD/offset, correct (or did you drill your hubs for a 4x100 PCD )??

 

[Peterson]

15x8 Dekagrams??

There was a very limited run of those in our PCD/offset, correct (or did you drill your hubs for a 4x100 PCD )??

I was in on the Forum buy!

I have a set of 15x8 and two sets of 16x8

I currently daily the car on the 15” wheels.
I autox on the 16” wheels this year. I was using a 225 on the 15” wheels, but I didn’t like the steering feel. I went back up a wheel size and have 215 Potenza RE71RS. I feel like I’m much faster on the 16”. Hell. If I could get a light 17” wheel, I’d probably test that out too.

 

[Peterson]

I might add that I need a 3mm spacer for the 215 tire to clear the coil over body.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Phil's Tire offers the KE Motorsport Pro T12s in a 17x8.

They weighed one for me and claimed that it came in right under 17 lbs. for our offset and PCD.
But yeah, not the < 15lbs. for the 16x8 Dekagrams.

 

[Peterson]

Phil's Tire offers the KE Motorsport Pro T12s in a 17x8.

They weighed one for me and claimed that it came in right under 17 lbs. for our offset and PCD.
But yeah, not the < 15lbs. for the 16x8 Dekagrams.

What the heck is our hub size again?

 

[M-Sport fan]

Our PCD/bolt pattern is 4x108, our center bore is 63.4, and our usable offset is anywhere from ~35 ET to ~50 ET, (depending upon just how much suspension geometry/scrub radius altering poke, or inset one can tolerate).

Unlike most other wheels offered in our specs, the KE Motorsport Pros actually come in a 63.4 center bore, negating the need for centering rings required with most of the other popular 73.1 center bore, aftermarket wheels out there for our rides (RPF1s, Dekagrams/Hexagrams, etc.).

 

[Peterson]

Great info! I’m getting a set of hub stands made because I’m sick of climbing under the car to do my alignments 😆

 

[cidsamuth]

With AutoX, I assume rotation is key and high speed stability is not. So, your heavy camber and toe out seems appropriate.

I run -2.75ish camber for HPDEs. Defer towards running more negative camber on the left, as my local track favors right turns.

With toe, I’ve taken to running neutral or toe in. Reason being, I run +25offset and slicks with big turbo, so tramlining and torque steer are a real bitch on the straightaways at full throttle.

 

[Peterson]

yessir. I think the -3 is plenty considering I still daily drive the car every day to work on the highway 😄

 

[hawyee]

Are you running any rear camber? Here's mine, ideally would like to zero the toe in the rear still.

 

[Peterson]

I use DNA rear camber shims. -2.5 rear

 

[HAHAFiST]

Wouldn't you want to leave camber alone (leave stock) n the rear for the sake of rotation?

 

[Dialcaliper]

Wouldn't you want to leave camber alone (leave stock) n the rear for the sake of rotation?

It’s a tradeoff between more rotation and reduced overall grip. 200TW and stickier tires need at least a bit of negative camber or you sacrifice grip. (Generally at least -2.0 deg)

 

[RAAM]

I wanted to see if a set and forget setup would do well for my use, street normal driving, a little fun in canyons but not all out nuts, track days and TT events. I went with -2.1 in the rear the hard way, cut rear flanges loose and realign and weld them well. It took three tries to get it right as could not load the rear properly on the lift so I just did a correction on the next try and it worked, target was -2.0. Toe at zero.

Front I went with -2.5 which turned out great but if setup for auto crossing I would of gone with probably -3.5 or even a bit more depending on tires, surface, how it worked with the rear camber, etc...Toe set to 1/16" in.

Castor as much as I could get with the then available parts which was not much change, if any at all, ten years ago, memory is a bit grayed out there. (of course nothing to do with turning 72 last May

Ride height as low as I could go and maintain proper geometry and real world use, worked great.

If I had kept running events and did some auto crosses as well I would of worked out proper settings and built or modded the control arms probably long before any came out to buy.

Wheels, with the added rear camber and a bit of roll and pull I was able to run 15x9 wheels with 225 tires just fine. I was probably the first to do the 4x100 conversion or close to it as well as first to change rear camber. I put the car on the lift with 5 miles on it, 8 months and 1,000 hours later finally started driving it.

Even though I had progressive springs at first, on BC coilovers, the car was amazing on track, one of the easiest handling cars I have ever driven. I almost ran an autocross for fun once but it started raining pretty hard and I had the wrong tires so did not bother with it. Same as the hill climb in Nevada, just arrived, hardly any time behind the wheel with the new EFR and a lot more power than the first Cyborg turbo, I just did not feel confident in myself to try my luck as I like to go 100% always at events.

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Anyway, back on topic, stock rear camber and -3.5 up front with a bit of toe out sounds like it would work very well indeed for autocross.

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If the rules you are under allow it lower the car as much as you can but do yourself a huge favor and measure the actual center of the suspension where it rotates, inboard and outboard, keep the outboard below the inboard just a bit, makes a huge difference. I did a test at one even where we had covered flat parking, just wanted to see if it really made a big difference. Set ride height and marked it and camber, toe settings with tape, markers, dimples, etc....made a run, lowered it 1/4" more and and set pre determined and marked camber and toe, it was front and rear adjustable, made a run. Set it back to that the math showed was best, made a run. In a 45 second course, running slicks, very quick car, tons of experience, it made a 2.5 second difference which is huge!

At the next event I took 5th in a Pro Solo against trailered high budget SM cars and I was still on stock power and brand new slicks not even scuffed in, spun out on the first run.

Back then I was drawing out the geometry on my shop wall in full scale, really fun doing so.

Rick