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Best year FiST?

Volkoff

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#1
First post after my intro. I did use the search button to try and find this answer before posting. I also read the threads about the year to year changes. For a DD, what year would y'all recommend for a dad who's occasionally put his 5 year old in the back seat (with a child seat of course). We already have a family SUV so I'm not worried about cargo space or family road trips. I live in the Phoenix Valley and am already planning to do a larger intercooler and add an oil cooler when I get the car. I'm actively trying to find a lower mileage, mostly stock Orange Spice or Molten Orange ST. Please explain a little about why you choose that year.
Thanks, dudes!
 


TyphoonFiST

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#2
First post after my intro. I did use the search button to try and find this answer before posting. I also read the threads about the year to year changes. For a DD, what year would y'all recommend for a dad who's occasionally put his 5 year old in the back seat (with a child seat of course). We already have a family SUV so I'm not worried about cargo space or family road trips. I live in the Phoenix Valley and am already planning to do a larger intercooler and add an oil cooler when I get the car. I'm actively trying to find a lower mileage, mostly stock Orange Spice or Molten Orange ST. Please explain a little about why you choose that year.
Thanks, dudes!
Forget the Oil cooler* Not needed with these. If you want better cooling get a Mountune...Whoosh or Mishimoto radiator. That is a must in a hot place like AZ.Id be getting a Tune with the intercooler. You can get a Cobb Ap3 or Talk With Wesley @ Phul Performance and do Open source illuminati software tuning instead as its alot easier to fine tune. Both those Paint jobs are Very very hard to get correct if anything happens with the paint also BTW.
 


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OP
Volkoff

Volkoff

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Thread Starter #3
Forget the Oil cooler* Not needed with these. If you want better cooling get a Mountune...Whoosh or Mishimoto radiator. That is a must in a hot place like AZ.Id be getting a Tune with the intercooler. You can get a Cobb Ap3 or Talk With Wesley @ Phul Performance and do Open source illuminati software tuning instead as its alot easier to fine tune. Both those Paint jobs are Very very hard to get correct if anything happens with the paint also BTW.
Thanks for the reply! If the paint gets too messed up down the road I'll just thrown a vinyl on it. So what year?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#4
Thanks for the reply! If the paint gets too messed up down the road I'll just thrown a vinyl on it. So what year?
I bought mine Brand new off the lot* Every option for 15'. I d suggest going out and test driving some with and without recaro seats. I Bought mine with Recaros and was leery about them at first .Now i wouldn't go back to Normal seats EVER* Even after a Road trip from Mpls Mn to Key west Fl. They were perfect. 14-15 have the Better evap Harness that a lot 16+ convert too. 16s+ and up have Backup camera and Sync3 unlike 14-15 who got sync 2. Some 16'+ and up got interior ambient lighting while all 14-15s got it. There are trade offs everywhere, But the powertrain remains the same. The suspension 16+ and up is softer than 14-15* so depends on your ride quality preference. PAINT is shit on alot on the door seams...deck lid...antenna and hood seams. Some have a lot some have a little eventually they all get rust or paint peeling. There is more i know...ill let others elaborate. Oh drive a modded one with Hybrid or BT if you can find one along with stock Turbo it can save you from modding Bug. [driving]Good luck!
 


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#5
I'd say 2016+. These get Sync3 which is Apple Carplay/Android Auto compatible, and it's a massive quality of life improvement over Sync2. 2016 does not have a backup camera though, so if that's important to you then look for 2017+.
 


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Volkoff

Volkoff

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Thread Starter #6
Thanks for your input! I'm actually talking to a seller about a 2014 ST right now but the deal hasn't been finalized. Not worried about the back up camera and I've read on here you can upgrade the old SYNC system. Is that untrue?
 


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#7
Thanks for your input! I'm actually talking to a seller about a 2014 ST right now but the deal hasn't been finalized. Not worried about the back up camera and I've read on here you can upgrade the old SYNC system. Is that untrue?
It can be done and several on this forum have done it, but it is non-trivial and you have to source the parts that even from salvage will be several hundred bucks at least. I waited six weeks for my MY2016 to arrive as one of the very first off the boat in 2015 just because of SYNC3 I could have had a MY2015 for cheaper on the lot, but I wanted that CarPlay support. I had to wait over another full year for the software to catch up and I also had to swap in the USB hub upgrade that allowed it all to actually work since the MY2016 delivered with a USB1.1 hub instead of the required USB2.0 (p/n HC3Z-19A387-B). CarPlay rules, and it is even better with a ProClip mount next to it.
 


Cneu

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#8
Sync can be upgraded for about $350(hit up Both Tips Performance on facebook) and like 10 minutes of your time. I just did it a few days ago in mine and it's a pretty easy upgrade. I installed the upgraded usb-c plug($75) and use a wireless android auto adapter. Works great. If you get it from Both Tips you'll need to source the GPS antenna(~$12) and the plug adapter(~$12). After that just use a USB thumb drive to upgrade the software. That takes longer then anything else. There's a post on here that uses a program called Syn3Updater to create your usb drive. Pretty easy.

I love the recaro seats. I'm 6'1" and don't find them too small but some of my larger friends do. The seat warmers in mine are insanely fast to heat up which I find really useful when I've spent the day in the snow. They're comfy and do a pretty adequate job of securing me while cornering. They're not harness level, lol, but they do a decent job.
 


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#9
I'd say 2016+. These get Sync3 which is Apple Carplay/Android Auto compatible, and it's a massive quality of life improvement over Sync2. 2016 does not have a backup camera though, so if that's important to you then look for 2017+.
My ‘17 does not have a backup camera and is otherwise pretty optioned out: nav, recaros, black wheels and red calipers.
 


Dpro

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#10
I have a 18 Orange Spice with Smoke Storm Recaros I bought new . I love having the backup camera . Once you have one you find out just how convenient it is.. It was mentioned earlier that the 16+ had softer suspension. What was not mention is a larger front swaybar and 27-30% stiffer read twist beam. Which means if you go aftermarket shocks and springs or coilovers it will handle as sharp as previous years but with a bit more roll stiffness. Ya a lot people make a big deal about with stock suspension but truth be told stock springs and shocks are just ok not great . Can we say over dampened from the factory. Ya, It’s literally really down to what you want options wise and trying to find the lowest mileage . I would look at 17,18,19’s for that reason. Unless you luck out and find a super low mileage Performance blue with Recaros 14-15. 😄
 


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#12
I had to wait over another full year for the software to catch up and I also had to swap in the USB hub upgrade that allowed it all to actually work since the MY2016 delivered with a USB1.1 hub instead of the required USB2.0 (p/n HC3Z-19A387-B). CarPlay rules, and it is even better with a ProClip mount next to it.
I bought mine in December '15 and oh man I remember painfully waiting for the software update to be released. Would you mind sending a link to the ProClip?
 


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#14
I purchased this one off amazon a while back. Someone else on this forum used it with good luck. Says its unavailable now but heres a link for you to see it and hopefully be able to find something similar. https://a.co/d/3FSpI7V. For shits and giggles i looked up a rear view camera on tascaparts.com and its around $330 without the bracket to mount it. Amazon wins this one.
 


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M-Sport fan

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#15
It can be done and several on this forum have done it, but it is non-trivial and you have to source the parts that even from salvage will be several hundred bucks at least. I waited six weeks for my MY2016 to arrive as one of the very first off the boat in 2015 just because of SYNC3 I could have had a MY2015 for cheaper on the lot, but I wanted that CarPlay support. I had to wait over another full year for the software to catch up and I also had to swap in the USB hub upgrade that allowed it all to actually work since the MY2016 delivered with a USB1.1 hub instead of the required USB2.0 (p/n HC3Z-19A387-B). CarPlay rules, and it is even better with a ProClip mount next to it.
Do you know when the 'break point' build date for the upgraded USB 2.0 hub was for the MY2016 cars?
 


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#16
Do you know when the 'break point' build date for the upgraded USB 2.0 hub was for the MY2016 cars?
Sorry, no. I just know the part numbers for the hub I needed to get as a replacement in order for it to work along with the software update that added CarPlay support.

There was a Lincoln p/n that only differed in terms of the color of the illuminated USB type-A plugs that was easier to source at the time and the Ford version that matched the rest of the interior illumination.

CarPlay USB hub upgrade p/n = HC3Z-19A387-B
Lincoln alternative p/n = GJ7Z-19A387-B
 


Intuit

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#17
We already have a family SUV so I'm not worried about cargo space or family road trips. For a DD, what year would y'all recommend for a dad who's occasionally put his 5 year old in the back seat (with a child seat of course). .......... I'm actively trying to find a lower mileage, mostly stock Orange Spice or Molten Orange ST.
Space and safety wise, they're all the same. Obviously the LOUD orange spice color you intend to choose may be a positive.

I live in the Phoenix Valley and am already planning to do a larger intercooler and add an oil cooler when I get the car. Please explain a little about why you choose that year.
Thanks, dudes!
Pre-16 had recalls for the cooling system. '16 had a campaign (not a recall) because the wrong cooling fan relay was installed for some at the factory.

Modern engines are engineered to run hotter, for emissions purposes, which also has the benefit of less carbon build up in the cylinders. (runs cleaner) There's no reason to panic because you're looking at a 220 temp in traffic. Cooling system peak pressure is a whopping 21.7 PSI. The thermostat doesn't fully open until 207F. The PCM varies engine fan activation temp based on conditions but I wouldn't be surprised if activation temp is beyond 212F. My motorcycle's engine fan activation varies between 217~219F. Previous generation's activate temp was 212F. Interestingly, to address carbon build up in the cylinders, I partially blocked the radiator, raising the average and peak operating temps... only to see the manufacturer do similar with subsequent generations; albeit for emissions.

I bought my car in 2016... which happens to be the year that I own. The Kona Blue was the color I very much desired. My advice is to get the latest year, unmolested, lowest mileage, best cared for, driven outside of the rust belt.

.
 


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XR650R

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#18
My advice is to get the latest year, unmolested, lowest mileage, best cared for, driven outside of the rust belt.

.
This. Find a clean one that's stock, or close to it. In Arizona, I'd look for a white one, but any color will do. They all have cheap paint.
 


Ford SVT & ST

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#19
I have a 2019 because it was the easiest year to find with the lowest miles. Definitely buy one from someone that knows the history and maintenance of the car. It is also the last year which has the best/latest upgrades that Ford put into our little cars. Definitely get the RECAROS!!!! YOU WILL not regret it.
 




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