Transmission Blow'd Up on Track

[cidsamuth]

Morning, all.

There have a been several "what are my options" threads for transmissions, but they are getting old and were for folks who weren't using their FiST exactly as I do. So, hoping to get some options that are current and applicable to me.

The car: Track dedicated completely, including stripped interior and full cage. 2015 FiST with a new (used) motor, S280 on E48, Multi-Port fuel, Wavetrac LSD, 225/40/17 R7 slicks, custom front brake kit. I use the STOCK clutch and flywheel, so an aftermarket clutch setup is not to blame.

On Friday, just two laps into my first track session of the year, my transmission gredanaded. Coming out of a higher speed turn in 4th, suddenly the car felt like it was in neutral. Downshifted to third, which took . . . for a few seconds, then 3rd acted like it was in neutral. Then, came horrible clunking, marble noises, and I limped the car back to an access road and loaded on the trailer.

At home, it went into first and reverse fine getting it from the trailer to the garage, albeit making noise. For a hot second, I thought maybe it was something minor like a CV joint. But, as I put the car under load pulling it up the ramps on a 4-post lift, it made a couple more horrible clunking noises, and now the shifter won't come out of the 1-2 gate. Going theory is that broken pieces internally got lodged.

So . . . I don't think I'm interested in paying $4-5k for a Clarke. As fine as the craftsmanship seems, that's a lot for a transmission that isn't necessarily more durable for track use. Certainly, I'm not paying $13k+ for a Pumaspeed sequential, as fun as that sounds. I'm hearing a rebuild is not possible because internals are not available? I might be forced to stick with a used OEM, but that would have to be opened up anyway for the LSD install.

Note, if whatever transmission I end up with needs opened up for my Wavetrac anyway, I'd like to address having a lower effective gear ratio. I need more pull out of 3rd and 4th. Frankly, I don't care about the other gears from that perspective. At the least, perhaps the higher numerical final drive ring & pinion modification would be sufficient.

Your input appreciated. Picture for attention . . . as she sits now and likely will sit until this goat rope is resolved.

 

[dhminer]

Man that’s a bummer. Unfortunately seems like a matter of “when” not “if” when running the power level that comes along with additional fueling. If it were me, I’d go with a Clarke with WPC treatment. Not sure it’s an order of magnitude stronger but it’s a pretty well proven technology that’s worth a shot, in my opinion. If not looking to drop that much on a trans, I’d go with another stocker and just swap your diff over. Seems like your stock one took a good amount of abuse before letting go.

 

[cidsamuth]

Seems like your stock one took a good amount of abuse before letting go.

Yea, car has 113k on it, and I assume the trans is the original. No idea how it was maintained for most of its life. Last 10k was exclusive track use, mostly with big turbo.

 

[dhminer]

Yea, car has 113k on it, and I assume the trans is the original. No idea how it was maintained for most of its life. Last 10k was exclusive track use, mostly with big turbo.

That’s solid. Also, what’s that race car?

 

[cidsamuth]

That’s solid. Also, what’s that race car?

It’s an old ASA car that was converted and run in an SCCA GT2 series for a few years. Just got it in the fall and haven’t run it on track yet, as I was prepping it and performing some much needed maintenance.

With the FiST sidelined, that car will be hitting the track soon.

 

[dhminer]

That’s awesome. LS1?

 

[cidsamuth]

That’s awesome. LS1?

Correct. Racing heads, Fast intake, etc. I would estimate 480ish HP at the crank. The seller claimed 500, but I doubt it

 

[dhminer]

Correct. Racing heads, Fast intake, etc. I would estimate 480ish HP at the crank. The seller claimed 500, but I doubt it

Nothing a little boost can’t fix lol

 

[Mega ST]

If the trans took that much abuse I would just get a low milage used one install your LSD and let er rip. See how it holds up. In my import drag days, we were lucky if a manual Honda trans made it thru half a season. Same with the DSM manuals. Always kept 3 or 4 spares. Dog boxes were pricey.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Correct. Racing heads, Fast intake, etc. I would estimate 480ish HP at the crank. The seller claimed 500, but I doubt it

OK, I thought that ALL old roundy-round rides had to go into GT1, but forgot all about that the ASA cars used only slightly modded LS1s for power.

Jerico or Weismann dog box in those cars?

 

[M-Sport fan]

Yea, car has 113k on it, and I assume the trans is the original. No idea how it was maintained for most of its life. Last 10k was exclusive track use, mostly with big turbo.

Not that it would have made much (if any) difference, but were you running a thicker (like Motul Gear 300) transaxle fluid?

 

[cidsamuth]

OK, I thought that ALL old roundy-round rides had to go into GT1, but forgot all about that the ASA cars used only slightly modded LS1s for power.

Jerico or Weismann dog box in those cars?

Jerico 4-speed 👍🏻

EDIT: the guy who used this car in GT2 was using a stock LS1. It has since been outfitting with the modified LS1.

 

[cidsamuth]

Not that it would have made much (if any) difference, but were you running a thicker (like Motul Gear 300) transaxle fluid?

Motul 300 mostly. I had just changed to Redline NF during the period when Motul got harder to get (at Wavetrac’s advice).

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Morning, all.

There have a been several "what are my options" threads for transmissions, but they are getting old and were for folks who weren't using their FiST exactly as I do. So, hoping to get some options that are current and applicable to me.

The car: Track dedicated completely, including stripped interior and full cage. 2015 FiST with a new (used) motor, S280 on E48, Multi-Port fuel, Wavetrac LSD, 225/40/17 R7 slicks, custom front brake kit. I use the STOCK clutch and flywheel, so an aftermarket clutch setup is not to blame.

On Friday, just two laps into my first track session of the year, my transmission gredanaded. Coming out of a higher speed turn in 4th, suddenly the car felt like it was in neutral. Downshifted to third, which took . . . for a few seconds, then 3rd acted like it was in neutral. Then, came horrible clunking, marble noises, and I limped the car back to an access road and loaded on the trailer.

At home, it went into first and reverse fine getting it from the trailer to the garage, albeit making noise. For a hot second, I thought maybe it was something minor like a CV joint. But, as I put the car under load pulling it up the ramps on a 4-post lift, it made a couple more horrible clunking noises, and now the shifter won't come out of the 1-2 gate. Going theory is that broken pieces internally got lodged.

So . . . I don't think I'm interested in paying $4-5k for a Clarke. As fine as the craftsmanship seems, that's a lot for a transmission that isn't necessarily more durable for track use. Certainly, I'm not paying $13k+ for a Pumaspeed sequential, as fun as that sounds. I'm hearing a rebuild is not possible because internals are not available? I might be forced to stick with a used OEM, but that would have to be opened up anyway for the LSD install.

Note, if whatever transmission I end up with needs opened up for my Wavetrac anyway, I'd like to address having a lower effective gear ratio. I need more pull out of 3rd and 4th. Frankly, I don't care about the other gears from that perspective. At the least, perhaps the higher numerical final drive ring & pinion modification would be sufficient.

Your input appreciated. Picture for attention . . . as she sits now and likely will sit until this goat rope is resolved.

Should've went the Clarke Route while yours was still a functioning unit* now i would cost you even more money due to not having a viable core. Your next bet is getting a unit from pumaspeed and rolling the dice. Best of Luck and sure you will find a way! Godspeed!

 

[cidsamuth]

Should've went the Clarke Route while yours was still a functioning unit* now i would cost you even more money due to not having a viable core. Your next bet is getting a unit from pumaspeed and rolling the dice. Best of Luck and sure you will find a way! Godspeed!

Share with me why the Clarke is better suited for the track, please, especially in consideration to its price. Honest inquiry.

 

[Sam4]

Share with me why the Clarke is better suited for the track, please, especially in consideration to its price. Honest inquiry.

Proven engineering - custom build when you order. Oh - the pricepoint keeps inquires serious. Look up OEM trans comparative pricing delta - not that much. The issue comes with core deposit/return, refund and shipping, as well as your own transport outta pocket..last summer's pocket cleaner at 115000

 

[cidsamuth]

Proven engineering - custom build when you order. Oh - the pricepoint keeps inquires serious. Look up OEM trans comparative pricing delta - not that much. The issue comes with core deposit/return, refund and shipping, as well as your own transport outta pocket..last summer's pocket cleaner at 115000

Last summer’s pocket cleaner? Not sure what you’re trying to say there.

And, you didn’t validate its track worthiness with any facts about its structure compared to OEM; just “proven engineering,” which doesn’t tell me much. As I said above, I have full confidence the quality is there for a street machine, but not sure it’s a sizable improvement over stock for track longevity.

 

[Sam4]

emptied my wallet. I meant I went out and bought a Clarke tranny last summer on a thin budget. Happy today..not so much mid-september! Dude - its a 100,000 mile car - you're the track star, I'm just trying to tell you where to buy a trans with legs. You could order a toothless british used box if you want.

 

[scooter123]

Correct. Racing heads, Fast intake, etc. I would estimate 480ish HP at the crank. The seller claimed 500, but I doubt it

I wouldn't question that claim. GM has a Small Block crate motor called the HT383 that features Vortec cylinder heads. Out of the box it made 345 HP and 435 ft.lbs of torque when I purchased mine back in 2000 or 2001. At that time Hot Rod magazine took that engine, shaved the valve bosses by 0.03 inch to allow a bit more lift and slid a hotter cam into the engine. That engine made 497 ft.lbs. of Torque and 504 HP on the Dyno. Keep in mind this is with cylinder heads that were originally designed for a higher performance Truck motor with the siamesed center cylinders and running a Holley 750 on a manifold I just can't remember. Note, mine is in a 1985 Monte Carlo SS and I've looked into doing that cam swap. The problem is that I would have to spend something around 16,000 dollars for a transmission and controller designed for this much power. Considering that the LS1 features better heads and usually fuel injection with the correct cam I would expect that 600 HP is an easy reach.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Share with me why the Clarke is better suited for the track, please, especially in consideration to its price. Honest inquiry.

You should speak directly with Colby Clarke* He will give you all the data you need directly from the Horses mouth* was a pleasure to deal with.