What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[akiraproject24]

Does anyone know if the DEPOs would fit any better than this?

I hope they do. I "should" be installing mine when I pull it out of storage in a few weeks. Gaps would irk the poops outta me.

 

[akiraproject24]

I finally finished the wiring for my new Euro projector headlights (TYC, because DEPO was listed as discontinued when I ordered, and now they're back in stock...). I found some cheap Philips Ultinon H7s and H1s to install, only $57 for all four. These TYCs had very standard looking bulb sockets that did not require any special additional clips or adapters to install the LEDs. Just slip off the collar, snap them into the housing, and slide the bulb back in. The H7s needed a deep dust cap to fit the integrated fan. I also got Osram Diadem Chome PY21W bulbs to blend into the chrome of the housing. The fit leaves quite a gap between the lamp assembly and the bumper cover. I triple checked they were seated and all the mounting holes lines up square and true. Hmm.
View attachment 60620
I also upgraded the fogs to Diode Dynamics Elite LEDs (note the accent amber). I wanted to be able to switch back to USDM stock without repinning the car's wiring, so I built some wiring harness adapters out of kits I found for only a couple bucks per connector on AliExpress. I ran a double 18 AWG wire to each side off a fuse tap at F26 and used the other lead to power the accent light of the fogs. Here's the crude schematic I used to make my adapter harnesses:
View attachment 60621
I'm so grateful for the copius notes and info this forum has gathered together. I would not have attempted this project without the info this community has posted about these.

I tried three different sets of LEDs in the the high beam and couldnt get them to snap in. I finally just put some halogen Sylvanias in. Got a link for the ones you used? The way the H1 installs on these things is stupid lol. Wish it just had a spring clip to press on the H1 bulb rim sorta like the H7. That plastic abomination that fits into the housing side metal rods is retarded.

 

[ogminlo]

I tried three different sets of LEDs in the the high beam and couldnt get them to snap in. I finally just put some halogen Sylvanias in. Got a link for the ones you used? The way the H1 installs on these things is stupid lol. Wish it just had a spring clip to press on the H1 bulb rim sorta like the H7. That plastic abomination that fits into the housing side metal rods is retarded.

My TYCs have different bulb housings from all the posts I’ve seen on here. The H1 is a standard spring clip and the H7 has a metal collar with spring tabs that grip the flange of the bulb. The Philips bulbs I got both had removable flanges that I’ve seen listed on several other LED bulbs that have integrated fans. If your housings use the same kind of H1 mount that the stock USDM housing have, you need to buy an adapter that works like this post illustrates.

 

[Intuit]

Left the halogen in for high beam. No regrets.

 

[Sam4]

Left the halogen in for high beam. No regrets.

Plus, dirt cheap 100W bulbs available....

 

[akiraproject24]

Plus, dirt cheap 100W bulbs available....

Amazon? Recommend any in particular?

 

[ogminlo]

I tried three different sets of LEDs in the the high beam and couldnt get them to snap in. I finally just put some halogen Sylvanias in. Got a link for the ones you used?

I got Amazon "Renewed" Philips Ultinon LEDs which amounts to open-box returns they taped up and sold. The product seemed fine and everything works. The black plastic flange collar slides off and that is what you'd mount in the adapter clip to then slide onto the weird assembly rails before reinserting the bulb itself and then twisting it to orient vertically in the reflector housing. The wire tabs fit snugly into standard crimp-on disconnects if you don't mind clipping the wires in your housing. I had to, but I kept the originals and I can crimp disconnects onto them if I ever need to use them for halogens.

The light output is OK, not great. Good enough for the price. The Diode Dynamics fog output is better than the H7 Philips bulbs. I'm not sure I trust that dropping over $100 on a set of "good" LED H7s would make a big difference. They beat the hell out of the stock halogens, that's for sure. I'm very pleased with the upgrade, all things considered.

 

[SteveS]

Took advantage of the later daylight and the warm temperature to swap out the snow tires for the Indy 500s. Found that the inner shoulder of only the right front snow tire is excessively worn. I'll be calling to schedule an alignment today I guess. First one since the car was new in 2019!
For some reason I have a piece of paper I must have written down settings for the Fiesta ST. It says -1.18 degrees camber, 4.08 degrees caster .20 degrees toe, and rear camber at -.64 degrees. Is that right?

Turns out the alignment is still exactly spot-on from the factory. I guess the snow tire somehow had something wrong with it. Maybe a slipped belt? Don't know if that still happens but I experienced it back in the 1970s.

 

[ogminlo]

I hope they do. I "should" be installing mine when I pull it out of storage in a few weeks. Gaps would irk the poops outta me.

I happened across another FiST in a parking lot today which had the normal USDM headlamp housings, and I wanted to see what the bumper cover panel gap was on them. Upon close-up inspection, they had the same little gap my TYCs have after snugging up my front bumper cover. So maybe don’t go out and look too closely at your headlights!

 

[XR650R]

I happened across another FiST in a parking lot today which had the normal USDM headlamp housings, and I wanted to see what the bumper cover panel gap was on them. Upon close-up inspection, they had the same little gap my TYCs have after snugging up my front bumper cover. So maybe don’t go out and look too closely at your headlights!

Odd little cars. Such a hoot, tho.

 

[Sam4]

Amazon? Recommend any in particular?

Rock Auto also. I'm a Hella guy from way back, but Osram.

 

[New_Daily]

Yesterday discovered that I left my AP plugged in after having last driven it on Saturday. Totally dead battery. It was the OEM original. Just got another OEM from the dealer and installed yesterday.

 

[ogminlo]

I found a pair of Euro market OE tail lights on eBay from a UK salvage for $145 shipped.

They included the bulbs. The red lights are LED, the reverse light is the same 921 bulb as our USDM tail lights, and the amber signal is a PY21W just like the Euro projector headlamps use. I swapped out the reverse light for an LED and the amber blinker is an Osram Diadem Chrome bulb.

The connector on the Euro assembly is a Yazaki 6-pin male, but our USDM assemblies use the female version of the same plug. I built a conversion harness so I could switch back to stock if I ever wanted or needed to. The connector kits can be found on AliExpress for a few bucks.

Other differences include the US wiring harness with an integrated molded-on rubber grommet.

The Euro tails have a foam gasket of sorts that surrounds the entire assembly. There is also a threaded peg in the center of the Euro assembly that looks like it is used to secure it to the body via a plastic thumb screw.

The whole thing can just be unscrewed from the housing.

I slathered on the dialetric grease to help mate the foam gasket to the body to prevent that now-exposed wire opening from water intrusion, but judging by the imprint on the body I think I need to come back with some additional weatherstripping and/or some RTV to seal off the area.

Here's what the running lights look like in the dark:

 

[rallytaff]

Nice and bright!

 

[M-Sport fan]

I found a pair of Euro market OE tail lights on eBay from a UK salvage for $145 shipped.
View attachment 60745
They included the bulbs. The red lights are LED, the reverse light is the same 921 bulb as our USDM tail lights, and the amber signal is a PY21W just like the Euro projector headlamps use. I swapped out the reverse light for an LED and the amber blinker is an Osram Diadem Chrome bulb.
View attachment 60746
The connector on the Euro assembly is a Yazaki 6-pin male, but our USDM assemblies use the female version of the same plug. I built a conversion harness so I could switch back to stock if I ever wanted or needed to. The connector kits can be found on AliExpress for a few bucks.

Other differences include the US wiring harness with an integrated molded-on rubber grommet.
View attachment 60747
The Euro tails have a foam gasket of sorts that surrounds the entire assembly. There is also a threaded peg in the center of the Euro assembly that looks like it is used to secure it to the body via a plastic thumb screw.
View attachment 60748
The whole thing can just be unscrewed from the housing.
View attachment 60749
I slathered on the dialetric grease to help mate the foam gasket to the body to prevent that now-exposed wire opening from water intrusion, but judging by the imprint on the body I think I need to come back with some additional weatherstripping and/or some RTV to seal off the area.
View attachment 60750
Here's what the running lights look like in the dark:
View attachment 60752

I would also suggest replacing that now worn and peeling at the edges factory sealing tape square with something much more substantial/long lived (I used the Gorilla 'peel the backing off of the adhesive' thick plastic tape stuff which I cannot find the name of now).

It will help stave off the dreaded spare well pooling after heavy rains, due to that taped cavity allowing water to pour into the well.

 

[ogminlo]

I would also suggest replacing that now worn and peeling at the edges factory sealing tape square with something much more substantial/long lived (I used the Gorilla 'peel the backing off of the adhesive' thick plastic tape stuff which I cannot find the name of now). It will help stave off the dreaded spare well pooling after heavy rains, due to that taped cavity allowing water to pour into the well.

Now that the wire hole is wide open, I have to protect the whole area with the Euro tail gasket plus whatever it takes to create a good seal against the bodywork. The wire hole grommet is molded onto the OE light wire harness, so I can't transfer it over.

I could buy two copies of the harness just for the grommet and cut off the ends, but that seems like a waste. I could cut it off my OE lights, but I want to retain them in case I want or need to swap them back on. I'm going to get some silicone RTV and some adhesive weatherstripping to see if I can get it to create a water-tight perimeter that makes both the exposed wire hole and the tape a moot point.

I'm open to suggestions on DIY adhesive hole sealing techniques that can accommodate the wires passing through, though.

 

[Dusten]

New whoosh spring pads



Installed the front b8's



Then decided to check tire pressure... Holy moly

 

[tri-pedaler]

New whoosh spring pads
View attachment 60761
View attachment 60762

Installed the front b8's
View attachment 60763 View attachment 60764
View attachment 60765

Then decided to check tire pressure... Holy moly

View attachment 60766

That pressure is crazy

 

[Dusten]

That pressure is crazy

You know, you should've checked it. When I bought a few months ago the dealer had installed new tires. So I just assumed it was fine. The rides always been jarring. I just figured it was the issues with 17s I always hear about and having stock, old shocks.

 

[ogminlo]

You know, you should've checked it. When I bought a few months ago the dealer had installed new tires. So I just assumed it was fine. The rides always been jarring. I just figured it was the issues with 17s I always hear about and having stock, old shocks.

Some junior tech still wet behind the ears read the max PSI on the sidewall and filled them up.